Devh

All I can say it's very challenging, full of compromises and you will be chasing your tail.
In the end it's not worth it and a big waste of time when you understand that going outside the parameters of the engine will shorten it's life not to mention you will be obsess on the little things then actually enjoying the ride. If you want a fast car buy a fast car or learn how to drive.

Trumpanche

Sorry it's been a while since I posted. Thanks again for your thoughts Devh. Engine's been great for a couple thousand miles now. Oil change soon; I'll use the good stuff and report back. I'm expecting some trouble at first again but I'll try not to get dramatic about it ;-)

roadfrog

Just a further follow-up. Its now been about 2k miles since my last oil change. There was zero hesitation on this oil change. As I stated in another thread, I switched to Toyota 0W20 and was preceded by an oil system cleaning using a bottle of Toyota Engine Oil System Cleaner. As a bonus, the engine is so much smoother. My prior two oil changes both resulted in hesitation issues. I am now 100% confident that these problems are now gone as a result of the Toyota oil and that any issues with hesitation are caused by oils and viscosities that our engines just don't like. I was using 5W20 on various, quality brands

roadfrog

Just a further follow-up. Its now been about 2k miles since my last oil change. There was zero hesitation on this oil change. As I stated in another thread, I switched to Toyota 0W20 and was preceded by an oil system cleaning using a bottle of Toyota Engine Oil System Cleaner. As a bonus, the engine is so much smoother. My prior two oil changes both resulted in hesitation issues. I am now 100% confident that these problems are now gone as a result of the Toyota oil and that any issues with hesitation are caused by oils and viscosities that our engines just don't like. I was using 5W20 on various, quality brands when I encountered the hesitation problems.

FWIW.

Trumpanche

Roadfrog: Did you administer the oil cleaner yourself or have the dealership do it?

roadfrog

It's just a bottle you pour into the crankcase. You make sure the engine is fully warmed up, (I drove around the freeway and home), then pour the bottle into the crankcase and then let the engine idle for 15 mins before you drain it.

Wandl

By freeway he meant highway/interstate....

Trumpanche

Thanks Chris! I am very tempted to give it a try!

And thanks W - I would have been SO lost without the translation ;-)

roadfrog

Funny guys.....

We actually call them highways up here, but I thought YOU Yanks called 'em "Freeways". And we don't have states here so "interstate" is out. LOL

CARspec

Howdy all.

I've been following this issue for a while. It's a weird one but the bulletin to replace the heads after a reprogram does fix it. Check this out.

Trumpanche

About a couple hundred miles before my latest oil change, I topped off the engine oil with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to try and do a bit of mild pre-cleaning. The engine was already running pretty well and stayed that way until my oil change today. I had a local shop change the oil. I gave them the Toyota filter/seals and 10 quarts of Penzoil Ultra Platinum 0W20 full synthetic oil.

Day 1: So far so good. The engine does seem a good degree smoother and quieter with this oil than the previous "generic barrel" oil that's been in it. I hope to continue to have good results. I'll keep you posted!

Doublebase

The Penzoil Ultra Platinum is difficult to find in many places. Everything I've read says it's a great oil with a very robust additive package and Penzoil synthetics are supposed to be one of the best - if not the best - cleaning oils out there.

All I've been able to find is Penzoil Platinum where I am. I'm using TGMO right now and I must say it's done well...I'm 6k miles into it and it doesn't use hardly a drop. Mobil 1 Extended Performance is on sale at Walmart right now, so I might give that a shot.

Devh

Penzoil "synthetic" Ultra or Platinum is great oil for the money and probably the best non real synthetic oil (petroleum based) however im not entirely so sure it's better then the Toyota synthetic for Toyota only applications.
The Toyota oil is real synthetic in the classical sense being PAO based but that doesn't matter these days because the formulation is more important.

Doublebase

TGMO is real synthetic? I didn't realize that because for the most part most oils are like you said, petroleum based. Does that mean Mobil 1 is a pure synthetic? Because that's where/who makes toyota oil.

Another thing to consider - and I don't know if it's true - but the 0 weight oils tend to have better base stocks than other oils...at least based off what I've read.

And it amazes me how opinions differ regarding oil, just yesterday I was talking with a guy regarding royal purple. I told him I thought it was overpriced junk, now "junk" may have been a strong word, but for their price vs their additive package, too me is junk. They have a very weak additive package, but of course their oil is a gimmicky purple. He told me they have superior base stocks...hence why it's worth the extra money. Didn't even consider that spectrum of it because I always figured the additives were more important.

Devh

Mobil one oil's are real synthetic in the classical sense being PAO-based. Redline oil is also synthetic being mostly ester based which is a lot stronger but that doesn't mean much because it hasn't been proven to be better overall as a good street oil, only good in theory. Amsoil is also PAO-based and they derive their base stocks form Mobil. Castrol on the other hand was selling their hydrocrack oil which is a refining technology of harvesting petroleum oil, also known as group 3. Castrol was using the name synthetic loosely for this oil that was only manufactured for the North American market specifically for America because of laxed standards not found in Europe.
Mobil has taken Castrol to court over this and lost. A few years later many of the other conventional oil manufactures started to make their own version of group 3 oil because the process is cheap and the consumer would not be aware as long it said synthetic on the bottle. It was only discovered on used oil analysis from members on bob is the oil guy that showed the basestocks are not as important because The formulations of some of these group 3 oils was putting Mobil one to shame.

Royal Purple on the other hand is not bad oil, it's the worst oil for the money being that it is a marketing gimmick. If the purple color was a byproduct of some process when making the oil then it would be novel and incidental but the fact that they purposely add dye to their oil to sell it, is quiet telling.