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LS600hL Oil Change Procedure w/pics

Old 12-23-09, 01:57 AM
  #31  
Johnny
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It should work fine, if not better. The metal tubing in the cap is perforated. The oil is forced through, and is filtered from the center, out and upwards back into the engine. Where the aftermarket uses plastic retainers as shown in your link, Toyota bonds the paper element with a narrower 3/16" wide molded resin instead. The one you have traps and directs the oil more efficiently, whereas the Toyota element allows some seepage to occur at the extremities (probably cheaper to produce as well).
Old 12-23-09, 07:23 AM
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Thank you Burnaby, I always appreciate the insight.

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Old 12-24-09, 09:18 PM
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I enjoyed the thread,
but why Q torque power motor oil?
I use Pennzoil Platinum and my car isn't worth 1/30 of what your car is worth...
Old 12-24-09, 09:52 PM
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The drain pipe is actually optional. By the time you're done draining the pan, the oil in the housing is so minimal, I just remove the whole assembly in one go, replace the filter and o-rings. I don't fuss with the plastic drain nipple and not a drop of oil touches the plastic around the access panel.

As always, YMMV - the end result is the same either way.

Nice write-up by the way!
Old 12-25-09, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Thermactor
I enjoyed the thread,
but why Q torque power motor oil?
I use Pennzoil Platinum and my car isn't worth 1/30 of what your car is worth...
I also prefer to use Pennzoil Platinum, depending on the availability of the 5W20 on the shelf where I purchase my oil. On my first change, Q was available, Penn not. However, when you examine the containers the two come in, it's obvious they come from the same supplier, whoever that may be, and only the color of the container (silver vs bronze) is different. That tells me they are possibly brand-named in the same plant; on the other hand, the chemistry between the two may be done to spec (i.e. chemistry), so who knows?
Old 12-25-09, 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by AceVA
The drain pipe is actually optional. By the time you're done draining the pan, the oil in the housing is so minimal, I just remove the whole assembly in one go, replace the filter and o-rings. I don't fuss with the plastic drain nipple and not a drop of oil touches the plastic around the access panel.

As always, YMMV - the end result is the same either way.

Nice write-up by the way!
I didn't use a drain pipe on the first change, and it got a little messy when I unscrewed the filter housing, probably due to my lack of familiarization. On the second go, I did but did not attach a hose, so again, a bit of a mess (that nylon pipe takes quite a push to lock into the housing). When I finally cut myself a piece of used garden hose and hooked it up to the drain pipe, then I was able to get a better grip and the drain was cleaner. I think the Lexus service guys dispense fiddling around with the drain cap altogether, and just pull the housing, but they have a lot more head clearance than we do.

Thanks for the compliment!
Old 12-27-09, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Burnaby
One thing I might add... I always trusted the dealer on my previous 460 and now the 600 (I know, big mistake). But at the back of my mind I know human nature will frequently take the easy way out and that's when laziness rises to the occasion. There are two O-ring seals on the filter cap, a large one on the main body, and a smaller one on the filter drain nut.

Two scheduled oil changes had already been done by the dealer. However, I could easily tell the drain nut had never been removed. The oil in that area had gelled, and the nut was very had to break loose (iow, it had never been touched from the beginning). While not a critical change, that O-ring should be replaced, as per Toyota specs. We pay for a thorough service after all. So many things go on in places we don't have access to - and even if we did, we certainly couldn't stand next to the mechanic the whole time. Oil changes are often performed by the less savvy, if not junior staff. To me anyway, it's a constant reminder that there is no substitute for DIY.
They don't call them stealerships for nothing. Especially something as low end as oil changes. They're putting the grunts to do it. Such a shame even for a high end car and brand like the Lexus.
Old 01-27-10, 02:28 PM
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Did you purchase the filters et al from a toyota dealership or online?
Old 01-27-10, 03:06 PM
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if you google it you will find them all over for 5.00 for the kit, I buy them in 3 packs for 10.00 on Ebay
Old 01-27-10, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ls460love
Did you purchase the filters et al from a toyota dealership or online?
I bought a box of ten from Toyota for about $60. Probably will cost less in the US. Not worth considering Pennzoil, Fram, Autolite or K&N filters for now, as the cross-referenced equivalent for this car either is not available or has the wrong element size altogether, which then means a return trip for a refund.
Old 06-03-10, 04:07 PM
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when i get my filters they have 1 drain plug gasket inside the box. why are you buying extra?
Old 06-03-10, 09:38 PM
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The filters I buy from Toyota/Lexus in my area do not include a drain plug washer. And the box I bought was sealed from the factory. Are you using the same one?
Old 06-03-10, 10:58 PM
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no my boxes arnt sealed.
Old 04-15-12, 12:07 AM
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Default Thank you

Amazing DIY. Thanks!
Old 05-21-12, 03:34 PM
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Well...I changed my oil today for the first time since I have owned the car. Armed with this thread for guidance, my first surprise was when I opened the access cover to get at the filter and discovered the dealer in Nevada who changed the oil previously had left the big socket stuck to the filter housing. So now I have two.....

As others noted, there really is no need to remove the small drain plug and use the drain pipe. I just unscrewed the whole thing and dumped the oil in the drain pan.

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