Why is service required so often?
11-12-06, 03:53 PM
#16
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A lot of engines run cooler than in the past, and about synthetic oil - it doesn't break down AT ALL, it simply gets contaminents suspended in it as the filter gets less efficient. Synthetic oil (such as Mobil-1) can easily outlast the car, so breakdown is not an issue.
11-13-06, 10:00 AM
#17
Since this is a new engine design, it's not known how easy it is on oil. The 2UZ-FE is very easy on oil, so long intervals are no big deal. The way to find out is to get an "used oil analysis" (UOA) done. See bobistheoilguy.com for everything you wanted to know about oil. That will tell you how you should change your oil for the way YOU drive.
Make sure the TBN (total base number) is also analyzed; some tests don't include it. The TBN is a measurement of the amount of additives in the oil. Good oils like Mobil 1 delvac or Amsoil have an original TBN of about 10 (normal mobil 1 is like 7 or 6). The additives are necessary to, for example, neutralize acid from driving short trips to, say, the grocery store. It takes about 8 miles to warm up an engine to full operating temperature, meaning the water by-product from combustion ends up in the oil and forms corrosive acid if not neutralized. The additives neutralize the acid, but there's only so much additives in the oil. OTOH, if you drive long distances, the oil & engine heat to operating temp, evaporating the oil. Engine rpms will also determing the amount of shearing of the molecular chains. Engine design has a lot to do with how harsh it is on oil.
I run Mobil 1 delvac commercial synthetic oil in my LX470, but change at 7.5K mi intervals since it's in warranty. This oil can easily go 12K or more in the LX's V8.
Make sure the TBN (total base number) is also analyzed; some tests don't include it. The TBN is a measurement of the amount of additives in the oil. Good oils like Mobil 1 delvac or Amsoil have an original TBN of about 10 (normal mobil 1 is like 7 or 6). The additives are necessary to, for example, neutralize acid from driving short trips to, say, the grocery store. It takes about 8 miles to warm up an engine to full operating temperature, meaning the water by-product from combustion ends up in the oil and forms corrosive acid if not neutralized. The additives neutralize the acid, but there's only so much additives in the oil. OTOH, if you drive long distances, the oil & engine heat to operating temp, evaporating the oil. Engine rpms will also determing the amount of shearing of the molecular chains. Engine design has a lot to do with how harsh it is on oil.
I run Mobil 1 delvac commercial synthetic oil in my LX470, but change at 7.5K mi intervals since it's in warranty. This oil can easily go 12K or more in the LX's V8.
11-14-06, 03:43 AM
#19
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Think about it this way. The cost of an oil and filter change pales in comparison to major engine work at a Lexus dealership. It also gives you an opportunity to look around under the hood and under the car just in case something is getting ready to break. I shudder to think about how much a new engine would cost for an LS.
Chris
Chris
11-15-06, 10:52 AM
#20
Check with your dealer or others in the area about their service programs. I know there is one dealer where I live that will send a flatbed out and pick up your car for service and then drop it back off when it's done for no extra charge. That might make it more convenient to get the service done on schedule.
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