LS - 3rd Gen (2001-2006) Discussion topics related to the flagship Lexus LS430

Front Suspension 100k mile refresh Master List

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Old 01-11-15, 03:11 PM
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ejthomp
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Default 2004 Front Suspension 100k mile refresh Master List

I have a 2004 LS430UL that just turned 100,000 miles. The Air Suspension is holding up fine, but I'm experiencing some front end clunks and rattles with more roadnoise and I know the vehicle is overdue for a refresh. Rather than troubleshoot one or two items here and there, I want to do it all in one shot (Within reason of logic and budget for a 10 year old auto) and get this vehicle to drive like new again. My pricing is from Sewell.



Front Suspension Components

Lower Ball Joint Assemblies #43340-59115(Driver-side $88) #43330-59115(Passenger-side $88)

Lower Control Arm Bushings #48655-50012 (Need Two, $80 each, pressed in at machine shop) Do you also purchase an entirely new Lower Control Arm to address the forward Camber Bushing?

Lower Control Arm #48620-50050 (Passenger-side $225) #48640-50050 (Driver-side, $225) Some say you need to buy these, some say just do the LCA Bushings above.

Front Stabilizer Links #48820-50020 (Need Two, $78 each)

Sway Bar Bushings #48815-50122 (Need Two, $13.51 each)

Upper Control Arms #48610-59035 (Passenger-side $466) #48630-59035 (Driver-side $466) For the cost of these, you'd better make sure you need them! Sounds unusual to need them.



Steering Rack Components

Tie Rod Assembly #45470-59045 (Need Two, $68 each)

Inner Tie Rod #45503-59065 (Need Two, $122 each) These are called Steering Guide Sub-Assembly by Lexus

Steering Rack Bushings #45516-50030 (No 1. Need Two, $38 each) #45516-50040 (No. 2 Need Two, $34 each)



Motor Isolation Components

Rear Motor Mount - Transmission Mount #12371-50170 ($72.55)

Front Motor Mounts #12361-50170 (Need Two, $117 each)





Advice appreciated!

Maybe this will help someone else down the line.

Last edited by ejthomp; 01-12-15 at 03:03 PM.
Old 01-11-15, 05:48 PM
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ejthomp
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In reading multiple threads here, it seems my plan of attack should be:

1. Lower Ball Joints
2. Lower Control Arm Bushings
3. Front Stabillzer Links
4. Sway Bar Bushings
5. Rear Motor/Transmission Mount

My plan will be to order all of these parts and do them all. Total from Sewell for these items is $591.23 + shipping. Then go get an alignment!

Sound like a good plan? Anything I am forgetting? Anything I should do in back at the same time as I am getting the alignment anyway?

Last edited by ejthomp; 01-11-15 at 07:41 PM.
Old 01-11-15, 08:50 PM
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LEX ES300
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Thanks for posting this! I have a 2004 LS430 that has just done 115,000kms and the front is feeling a bit loose over bumps like yours. No major metal knocks or squeaks just more vibrations and muffled thumps only when going over bumps and up driveways etc - certainly more than there used to be.

So far I have replaced the Lower Control arm bushings (Lexus dealer did this using OEM parts) and for me that made a huge difference but I still feel it could be better. I am waiting on an order of the front lower ball joints, and I'm thinking I might as well order
- the front sway bar bushings (my part number for that shows as 48815-50122) ?
- the front stabiliser links

and I will have them fitted all at the same time when I'm next due for a service. I will see how that goes and I'm leaving the motor mounts till last because I don't think that is the issue on my car. I've also heard the upper control arms rarely fail also so I'm leaving them alone (plus they are the most expensive too etc)

Last edited by LEX ES300; 01-11-15 at 09:11 PM.
Old 01-11-15, 09:41 PM
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ejthomp
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Your part number is correct. Thanks.

Sounds like you are on the right path with the LCA bushings and ball joints. Those seem to be the common trouble makers.

I do read that the rear motor(transmission) mount is often well worn at 100k so I'm thinking it is a prime target as well.

Last edited by ejthomp; 01-12-15 at 12:14 PM.
Old 01-12-15, 06:59 AM
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ancdmd
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I did the same refresh at 115k. The one part you probably won't need to replace is the upper control arms. Mine were in perfect shape and didn't need to be done; it is correct that this part rarely wears out. I think you should replace both the lower control arm bushings (the rearward caster bushing and the forward camber bushing). The camber bushing is usually replaced by replacing the entire control arm, however if I recall correctly it can be purchased separately and some shops may be able to swap it out with your original arm. Another thing to not overlook is your INNER tie rods. I wouldn't go ahead and replace them just yet, but when you're doing the outer tie rods and the steering rack bushings make sure you check the inner rods for any play. The MOOG replacement parts is good and is way less expensive than the factory part.
Old 01-12-15, 09:51 AM
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ejthomp
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So here is where it gets complicated.

Do you just replace the entire Lower Control Arm so you get both bushings at once, or do you just get a new bushing pressed in as others have done?

The steering rack and associated suspension parts...do I tackle that as well? This would consist of:

Steering rack bushings (Two that total $72)
Tie rods (Two that total $136)
Inner tie rods (Two that total $244)
Old 01-12-15, 11:04 AM
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ancdmd
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It is more common to just replace the entire lower control arm, it comes with the forward camber bushing already pressed into it. The larger rearward caster bushing is purchased separately and it gets pressed into a small bracket. Definitely do the steering parts at the same time, there should be four pieces of steering rack mount bushings, two outer tie rods, and the optional two inner tie rods. Two ball joints also, along with two sway bar mount bushings and two end links. Alignment after reassembly.
Old 01-12-15, 11:08 AM
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Tom57
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Get bushings pressed in ... you don't need a new LCA, just the bushings. If you replace the LCA bushings, lower ball joints, and stabilizer bushings, that will go a very long way to stiffening up the front suspension. Worn inner and outer tie rods would affect the steering wheel play. If the steering is loose (which is best detected at highway speed, if the vehicle wanders and requires constant steering correction), maybe do those as well. Consider: with 250K+ on my '01 clock with OEM tie rods > no loose steering, no alignment issues. Replace the first 3 items (and stabilizer links), then decide if more needs replaced - IMO.
Old 01-12-15, 11:33 AM
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LEX ES300
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To make it easy for us can someone please post the part numbers for the
Steering rack bushes
outer tie rods
Inner tie rods

Thanks!
Old 01-12-15, 11:58 AM
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BradTank
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If you're rebuilding the front end, I would strongly recommend looking at buying some of the parts from the aftermarket like Moog's Problem Solver line.

To completely rebuild the front end with OEM Lexus parts is incredibly expensive and in my opinion, completely unnecessary. I would take the cost savings for later when you'll probably have to address the air suspension.
Old 01-12-15, 12:16 PM
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ejthomp
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Originally Posted by LEX ES300
To make it easy for us can someone please post the part numbers for the
Steering rack bushes
outer tie rods
Inner tie rods

Thanks!
Those numbers are in the first post.
Old 01-12-15, 12:25 PM
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LEX ES300
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Originally Posted by ejthomp
Those numbers are in the first post.
Oops! Ta, sorry I completely forgot to scroll fully up again! I might order these extra parts (tie rods inner and outer as well as steering bushes) and get it done all in one go.
Old 01-12-15, 12:32 PM
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ejthomp
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This is my wife's daily driver so it leads a very easy life from garage to garage. The steering is very tight so I think I will do the ball joints and LCAs, etc. drive it around a bit and go from there.
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