Upper Control Arms
12-05-14, 11:50 AM
#16
Pole Position
It's one of those situations that if your upper control arm ball joint is so bad it needs to be replaced, your lower ball joints and tie rods probably should have been replaced like 50k miles ago.
A lower ball joint can absolutely cause a popping noise in the situation you described. That is where most of the "abuse" is taken as the weight of the vehicle rests on that.
It could also be something like the strut mounts. I actually had a bad popping noise that ended up being simply the sway bar links on my previous Lexus.
I purchased some lower ball joints for the LS, just haven't gotten around to installing them and doing a write up. But they're actually pretty straightforward for DIY'er project since there's no "pressing" in and out, it simply bolts in. I personally would recommend going OEM in that instance because it's only like $30 more per side.
You probably have already heard all of this, but I would definitely do some testing and jack your car up and see where you can get any wheel play.
I would definitely start with the lower ball joint and see before I went into the upper control arm. Especially considering a $60 control arm could have questionable quality versus the Lexus one you have in there that could be fine.
Also, if you're not getting any weird tire wear issues and things feel tight, you might be better off just putting off that repair and ignoring the noise, assuming it's just barely there and only something a super **** LS owner (like all of us are) would hear.
A lower ball joint can absolutely cause a popping noise in the situation you described. That is where most of the "abuse" is taken as the weight of the vehicle rests on that.
It could also be something like the strut mounts. I actually had a bad popping noise that ended up being simply the sway bar links on my previous Lexus.
I purchased some lower ball joints for the LS, just haven't gotten around to installing them and doing a write up. But they're actually pretty straightforward for DIY'er project since there's no "pressing" in and out, it simply bolts in. I personally would recommend going OEM in that instance because it's only like $30 more per side.
You probably have already heard all of this, but I would definitely do some testing and jack your car up and see where you can get any wheel play.
I would definitely start with the lower ball joint and see before I went into the upper control arm. Especially considering a $60 control arm could have questionable quality versus the Lexus one you have in there that could be fine.
Also, if you're not getting any weird tire wear issues and things feel tight, you might be better off just putting off that repair and ignoring the noise, assuming it's just barely there and only something a super **** LS owner (like all of us are) would hear.
12-05-14, 11:56 AM
#17
Yeah, it's pretty much me being ****. There is absolutely no drivability issues. It's a minor problem that I find more annoying then anything. No uneven tire wear.
I don't think UL models have strut mounts right? Top of the airbag has it's own mount right?
Lexus of South Atlanta has looked over the front end multiple time. They can't find anything wrong. They also did my LCA's, tune up, and a few other services. Then again, they don't drive my car everyday and know her sensitive side. Something is failing. Now you have me thinking it's not the UCA's at all. Maybe I will do the LBJ's first and just cancel the UCA's for now. I would think Lexus would know if the LBJ's were going bad but maybe if they are just starting to go bad it's very difficult to tell.
I can only reproduce the movement and knock / pop when braking. When the load / gravity is shifting weight to the front. I never feel anything in the brake system. Brakes have been checked and are great. It's definitely suspension. I see your reasoning on the LBJ going first.
My service manager just wrote me back saying struts mount but I don't have strut mounts...
I don't think UL models have strut mounts right? Top of the airbag has it's own mount right?
Lexus of South Atlanta has looked over the front end multiple time. They can't find anything wrong. They also did my LCA's, tune up, and a few other services. Then again, they don't drive my car everyday and know her sensitive side. Something is failing. Now you have me thinking it's not the UCA's at all. Maybe I will do the LBJ's first and just cancel the UCA's for now. I would think Lexus would know if the LBJ's were going bad but maybe if they are just starting to go bad it's very difficult to tell.
I can only reproduce the movement and knock / pop when braking. When the load / gravity is shifting weight to the front. I never feel anything in the brake system. Brakes have been checked and are great. It's definitely suspension. I see your reasoning on the LBJ going first.
My service manager just wrote me back saying struts mount but I don't have strut mounts...
Hey,
Speaking to a number of different techs the general consensus is that the struts or strut tops would be the most likely cause of the noise. That’s just if they had to guess without hearing the sound. We do replace more LBJs than UCAs and with that in mind I would replace the LBJs first. The lower ball joints are $144.33 each and the labor to R&R the part is 1.5 hours per side or $189.00 per side. Of course an alignment will be needed as well.
Colby Willis
Assistant Service Manager
LEXUS SOUTH ATLANTA
4025 Jonesboro Road - Union City, GA 30291
Speaking to a number of different techs the general consensus is that the struts or strut tops would be the most likely cause of the noise. That’s just if they had to guess without hearing the sound. We do replace more LBJs than UCAs and with that in mind I would replace the LBJs first. The lower ball joints are $144.33 each and the labor to R&R the part is 1.5 hours per side or $189.00 per side. Of course an alignment will be needed as well.
Colby Willis
Assistant Service Manager
LEXUS SOUTH ATLANTA
4025 Jonesboro Road - Union City, GA 30291
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 12-05-14 at 01:47 PM.
12-05-14, 03:40 PM
#18
Lexus Test Driver
You should also take a good hard look at the INNER tie rods. I had a similar knock at low speeds under weight shift and bumps that took several examinations over a few years to diagnose correctly. Left inner tie rod was shot. I replaced them with MOOG parts and did the labor on a lift at a DIY garage with the help of the shop owner. A special tool is required to remove the tie rod and it's not something you want to attempt on jack stands unless you're really experienced. Parts were $50, labor was three hours for me.
12-11-14, 08:26 AM
#19
Just as an update, I decided to return the Beck / Arnley control arms and wait a little. I don't want to just replace parts unless I know they are failing and after talking to you guys and the dealer no one thinks it is the upper arms. Now, neither do I. I will probably do the lower ball joints first if anything though.
Looked like a pretty nice part from Beck / Arnley. Made in Taiwan.
Looked like a pretty nice part from Beck / Arnley. Made in Taiwan.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 12-11-14 at 10:02 AM.
12-11-14, 09:02 AM
#20
Thanks for showing those, they look quality for the price paid.
Taiwan has actually become a quality manufacturer. It's the chinese parts I'm weary about ever using again.
If I were buying an upper control arm, those are the ones I would probably buy.
It would be great if RockAuto did a better job letting people know where the parts were made.
Taiwan has actually become a quality manufacturer. It's the chinese parts I'm weary about ever using again.
If I were buying an upper control arm, those are the ones I would probably buy.
It would be great if RockAuto did a better job letting people know where the parts were made.
12-18-14, 11:44 AM
#21
I went ahead and ordered the front lower ball joints. I debated getting the OEM joints but both Beck / Arnley shipped came out to be less then just one OEM. I'll share some pics when they get in. Since the upper arms looked well made I will try the lower ball joints.
12-22-14, 10:59 AM
#23
Pole Position
Time to change the title of the thread 
Hope you're glad you changed lower ball joints rather than the UCAs. Let us know if this addressed the "movement and pop here and there" that you were experiencing.
Hope you're glad you changed lower ball joints rather than the UCAs. Let us know if this addressed the "movement and pop here and there" that you were experiencing.
12-22-14, 11:02 AM
#24
I know. But I can't. Maybe the mods can change the title. I will let you know once installed. Toyota dealer is quoting me $300 with alignment out the door. Waiting to see if I can get my Lexus dealer to match it. Initial quote was about $200 higher. Gotta work them a little.
12-22-14, 11:20 AM
#25
Pole Position
I know. But I can't. Maybe the mods can change the title. I will let you know once installed. Toyota dealer is quoting me $300 with alignment out the door. Waiting to see if I can get my Lexus dealer to match it. Initial quote was about $200 higher. Gotta work them a little.
12-22-14, 11:31 AM
#26
Pole Position
It's a very straight-forward DIY, if you're at all inclined. Places like AutoZone loan the ball joint extractor kit which makes removing the ball stud very easy.
12-22-14, 11:32 AM
#27
4 wheel. Seems like $100 is the going rate around here for a proper laser alignment. Another Lexus shop quoted me $200 in labor for the ball joints alone. $300 seems fair with alignment. Most dealers won't do a 2 wheel alignment. I'm sure it is not too hard but I don't enjoy it. I'm not setup with a garage and don't have the proper tools. I would rather pay for this type of work.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 12-22-14 at 11:37 AM.
06-29-16, 05:23 PM
#29
06-30-16, 05:23 AM
#30
