KING

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys,
A year back I hit a curb going around 25 mph, did wheel alignment at Les Schwabb and everything was alright. I hit the curb Left Front side.

I did have a noise that would come on if I was on the highway above 40 mph and made a right turn.
It's almost like a rubbing noise, ( mmmmmmhhmmm, mhmmmhmmmm) and the steering wheel would vibrate a little bit.

But if I go straight, or even if I turn left, I can hear none of that.


I went to Les Schwab, and their report was: "LF lower control arm is bent a little bit, and rear bushing bracket, LF bearing has noise."

I don't know if I need to change the control arm, since it's barely bent. Maybe bushing only?
So my question is, does the lower control arm have anything to do with the noise I explained? Can it be the bushing only, or both?


Thanks in advance.

KING

iTrader: (1)

Guys I'm bumping this because I need help, don't think I can find t else where.

gemineye

"I did have a noise that would come on if I was on the highway above 40 mph and made a right turn"

That is a classic symptom of a failed/failing wheel bearing. I would get that replaced first and see if the symptoms go away. I'd put $$$ on it that that fixes the symptom I have quoted above.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

If you hit the curb and they said it was bent I would replace the whole arm. 25 mph will bend and arm.

BradTank

You can swap the front tires from right to left and see if the noise follows. If it does, you likely have a tire issue. But if the noise stays on the same side, I would probably be looking at the bearing.

I would think if the control arm was truly bent, you wouldn't be able to get it properly aligned. When you take it on the freeway and (safely) let go of the steering wheel, does it track straight? Or does it pull sharply to the side? You said you've been driving it a year after the incident. If the car has been driving fine with no strange tire wear issues, it sounds like it's okay, but it's hard to give an assessment without seeing it.

Also, I personally would suggest not using shops like Les Schwab.

lorenr

iTrader: (1)

That is an easy job to do and I'd believe Les Schwab. If it was me I'd not take a chance on doing additional damage, besides these cars are mean't to be driven faster than 40MPH.

I'd probably do most of the work myself. But, I'd replace everything Schwab identified (I might even do both sides) and also the wheel bearing. The lower control arm should be easy.

Repairing things promptly and properly leaves you with a decent driver.

cpcc

change the control arm and the hub, if its making noise.

KING

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys.
To update, I got a wheel bearing hub from KOYO, costed me $170.

Did the installation myself in about an hour because I had to go rent a slide-hammer from an auto parts shop. Don't think the old hub will ever come out without using that tool. Pretty much stuck on there. But the tool made the job easy. There is always a right tool to get the job done.

After driving the car, finally, it's gone! Can't believe it. No more sounds anymore.



I think I still need to replace the lower control arm though. When I'm braking and I come to a lower speed like 10-15 mph, i can feel the tiniest teeny bit of vibration, like the braking isn't smooth and steady. Don't know if that's happening from the bent lower control arm. Or I might need new pads?

BradTank

If you feel a vibration through the brake pedal and it only happens when applying the brakes, I'd first suspect your rear brake rotors are slightly warped.

On the flip side, if you can feel a vibration through the steering wheel when you're braking, it usually means the front rotors are warped.

If the control arm was bent, I would think it would be a vibration issue regardless of whether or not you were applying the brakes.

KING

iTrader: (1)

It's the feeling of someone pumping the brakes and letting go several times after each other. When coming to a speed of 5-10 mph, like when reaching a red light. Almost seems like the car brakes and there is a gap in the rotor (just as an example). It hold brake and lets go.

All of this happens and probably a normal person will never realize it. Because of how tiny the effect is.

BradTank

It sounds like the rear rotors are warped, but it's difficult to know for sure. That's how I would describe how it feels, like the brake is grabbing and releasing and the feedback goes through the pedal. But it could also be something wrong with the caliper.

I would probably put new rotors and pads and bleed the brakes. I've had good luck with Centric premium rotors and Wagner Thermoquiet brake pads. Both are available fairly inexpensively at Amazon. But I would hate to throw parts at guesses, suspension and brake issues can sometimes be hard to nail down.

If you're only feeling it during braking, I would tend to think it's a brake issue. If it completely goes away as soon as the brakes are released, I don't think it's something like a control arm.

KING

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the great feedback. I don't think the brakes have ever been bleeded or flushed in my car, from day one.

How much would the whole rotors, pads, flush cost? From the products you preferred.


Took, a very long drive yesterday. Seems to be alright, worse when it's cold. But depending on how much it would cost, might just just do it next month.

BradTank

About $90 for the 2 rear rotors, $25 for the rear pads, and say $8 for the brake fluid.
So around $123 in parts.

If you're taking it to a shop, labor is difficult to nail down, but I think the $150 range would be fair, probably take a shop 1.5 hours to replace rotors, pads, and flush/bleed it.

If you're only feeling feedback through the pedal when braking, I think it's probably a safe guess that it's something with your rear rotors.

KING

iTrader: (1)

I think I should include the shim kit with that. I have some weird clicking noise that I noticed today. New shims and springs etc.

Again thanks for the valuable info.