Slvr surfr

iTrader: (1)

Ok so i apparently have an exhaust manifold leak on the drivers side. Not sure if its one the gasket or a crack. I can hear a like tick coming from that side when accelerating. I also hear this tick at cold start up but it quiets down after maybe a minute. I had it for sometime now and it is the cause of my CEL/VSC problem so its time to get it done away with. Now the first shop i took it to(Kelly's Muffler) quoted me $500 of labor if i brought my own part in. Part on Ebay(link below) is $90. After that i took it to a Lexus specialist and was quoted $1200 parts and labor. He stated the engine must come out to complete this job. Next up was the Lexus dealer who gave me $1710 parts and labor but offer a 10% discount. They also said i need motor mounts but thats secondary at the moment. Lastly, i swung pass Midas. They gave the same quote as the Lex specialist($1200). My questions to you guys is

1. Do the engine really have to come out to perform this work?
2. Are the prices resonable for this tyoe of job?
3. ...and what route would you take if in my shoes?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-05-06-LEXUS-LS430-LEFT-DRIVER-SIDE-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-/181514933998?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ALS430&hash=item2a432216ee&vxp=mtr

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

the motor doesnt necessarily need to be removed but definitely raised a few by loosening the motor mounts. theres been a few threads about removing the headers on the SC430/GS430 forums.

SQuester

I'd make sure that it's a leak at the manifold before doing anything, as the common leak in the area is near the cats/y-pipe.

Slvr surfr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks fellas. Im was quite sure the whole motor didnt have to come out and I really wasn't trying to hear that. Lol. I just had the y-pipe replaced last week and thats when we found another leak. Smh. Im also replacing both mufflers soon. The exhaust seems to be the weakest link on my car.

BradTank

I'm sure it may seem like a "ghetto" repair, but years ago I had an old beater and it had a slightly hairline cracked manifold.

I put a high heat "JB Weld" type epoxy over it and it got the job done. The repair was probably stronger than the actual manifold.




If you're going to have to replace it anyway, what do you have to lose?

I would make sure though you actually have a cracked manifold and a leak. I kind of get the feeling you might be chasing the wrong issue or a shop may be just "shotgunning" parts at a problem. What specific code is the car throwing?

There's ways to nail down if there's a leak coming from that area. Some shops can use things like a smoke machine, a stethoscope, etc.

But a shop owes you a guarantee that:
A) There is an exhaust leak where they say it is and
B) this fix will make it stop throwing the code

I kind of feel like the shop was throwing parts with the Y-Pipe replacement, but I don't know all the details.

bmore430

From your experience having the y pipe fixed and still having leaks at their welding spots on top of them saying you have another leak throwing the code at the manifold causing the code seems like they are guessing or just not competent.

If it was me I'd find a high performance shop or fabrication shop and have a set of ppe headers installed if there is a cracked stock manifold then do a quality y pipe set up in stainless if you plan on keeping the car awhile longer.

BradTank

There's also some old school ways to find an exhaust leak, like getting some gloves and having someone hold a rag over the tailpipes, creating extra back pressure and seeing if you can locate it.

You can also do something like a SeaFoam type treatment to make the exhaust smoke up and find it that way.

I just don't think the "ticking" noise at startup is enough to conclude there's a crack in the manifold, I'm pretty sure mine also makes a ticking noise at startup. My gut says that it could be the Y-Pipe replacement and a gasket leaking. I remember having some exhaust work done and there was a leak on the joint they replaced, but it was incredibly obvious because you could see the water pouring down from the joint.

If you don't have the ability to troubleshoot and get under the car, at the very least I would get a 2nd opinion. Don't tell the shop the prior diagnosis, just say it's throwing a code and what should you do to fix it. An exhaust shop I went to wouldn't even charge to for a diagnosis like that. Even if you had to go to a dealer, I would pay the $100 fee to diagnose before pulling out a manifold.

Slvr surfr

iTrader: (1)

Well after i trolled a few shops i did eventually take it to a Lexus dealer who did say the same thing. Bad/cracked exhaust manifold. They want $1700 to fix it. . Cant swing that so i going with an shop that specializes in exhaust who quoted me $480 in labor. Thats with me supplying my own parts and they will also weld a leak i have were the 2nd CAT meets the resonators. I will give an update on how things work out tomorrow after its finished. Wish me luck!

Slvr surfr

iTrader: (1)

Well i just picked up my ride today and i must say they did do a pretty good job replacing the manifold. He did say it was cracked so good thing i did have it on deck as supposed to waiting. She's back to purring like a kitten again. No more ticking and sounding like a small hot rod. Only quarrel i have is the alignment was knocked off a lil due to parts being moved a loosened i guess. No worries because i plan to get an alignment done soon after i replace my CA bushings and tires so im not too bothered. Also by getting this job done the CEL/VSC lights are off now so im off to take it thru emissions now. Next up is replacing both mufflers. Both have holes on the top of them. I ended up getting some OEM take offs from a member on here for a very good price so that worked out pretty well. Just wanted to update you guys on how this turned out. Keep you posted on any further developments.