2004 LS430: keyless entry (and smart key) suddenly stopped working
#31
Driver School Candidate
#32
I was able to get the remote and the smart key system to work now. There was some corroded connectors in the trunk near the passenger taillight. Anyone know what this is? http://www.ebay.com/itm/171280182118
It's listed as a DOOR CONTROL RECEIVER which is also near the passenger taillight area. The keys wasn't working when this was connected. Is this the thing 'smart key' ECU for the trunk?
In the sense, the navigation stopped workingI believe I might have damaged some of the connectors around the area, so I will be looking at changing them out.
It's listed as a DOOR CONTROL RECEIVER which is also near the passenger taillight area. The keys wasn't working when this was connected. Is this the thing 'smart key' ECU for the trunk?
In the sense, the navigation stopped workingI believe I might have damaged some of the connectors around the area, so I will be looking at changing them out.
#33
Does anyone have the wiring list/description of the cables/connectors highlighted in the picture below? As you can see in the red circle, it's my temp bypass to get the passenger power seat to work.
The connector in green is what I believe is causing the Navigation not to work. The screen is just blank.
The connector in blue is what I believe causing the keyless not to work. When I disconnected it, the keyless started to work.
The connector in green is what I believe is causing the Navigation not to work. The screen is just blank.
The connector in blue is what I believe causing the keyless not to work. When I disconnected it, the keyless started to work.
#34
Lexus Champion
The white connector circled in red and gray connector circled in green are harness-to-harness connectors mainly there for ease of manufacturing. Once in place, they are rarely used/disconnected during maintenance of the vehicle. The white connector is called BE3 with 18 conductors (I’m not sure if all of them are used), and the gray connector is called BE4 with 22 conductors. Judging from your picture, it seems that you have enough wire length to eliminate these corroded connectors altogether.
Here’s an idea… Wago makes a product called Lever-nuts (see picture) which is used to splice 2 conductors together. These little connectors will handle wires sizes 12-28 AWG. All you do is flip the orange levers up, strip the wires you want to splice together and insert into the 2 ports, and then flip the orange level back down to clamp the wires in place. No crimping tool is required! Of course, you would do one pair of wires from the mating connectors (the white and the gray) at a time so you don’t accidentally cross any of them.
You can do the same for the connector circled in blue. The nice thing about the Wago is that you can remove and re-insert individual connectors after the initial installation.
Alternatively, you can make your new harness connector set with something similar to these... http://www.sourcingmap.com/car-dvd-n...-p-452180.html
Another suggestion is to avoid using black electrical tape to make permanent splice - they don't standup well to tugging and will come un-done easily.
Here’s an idea… Wago makes a product called Lever-nuts (see picture) which is used to splice 2 conductors together. These little connectors will handle wires sizes 12-28 AWG. All you do is flip the orange levers up, strip the wires you want to splice together and insert into the 2 ports, and then flip the orange level back down to clamp the wires in place. No crimping tool is required! Of course, you would do one pair of wires from the mating connectors (the white and the gray) at a time so you don’t accidentally cross any of them.
You can do the same for the connector circled in blue. The nice thing about the Wago is that you can remove and re-insert individual connectors after the initial installation.
Alternatively, you can make your new harness connector set with something similar to these... http://www.sourcingmap.com/car-dvd-n...-p-452180.html
Another suggestion is to avoid using black electrical tape to make permanent splice - they don't standup well to tugging and will come un-done easily.
Last edited by rkw77080; 09-20-14 at 06:47 AM.
#35
Alternatively, you can make your new harness connector set with something similar to these... http://www.sourcingmap.com/car-dvd-n...-p-452180.html
Another suggestion is to avoid using black electrical tape to make permanent splice - they don't standup well to tugging and will come un-done easily.
Another suggestion is to avoid using black electrical tape to make permanent splice - they don't standup well to tugging and will come un-done easily.
I was looking at eBay/google for replacement connectors and some of them are only rated up to 20A, while the Lexus has some 30A (power seat for example). Not sure if it makes much difference, so hopefully these connectors are rated for such. I notice they have different gauge size already, so I'll try to match them up accordingly.
I'll report back once the connectors come in and replace them to see if it fixes the issues. I believe they are coming in from China, so it may take some time to deliver.
-Mike
#36
I'm happy to report that the navigation is now working again . The replacement connectors I ordered came in last week but I didn't have a chance to work on it until this morning.
It seems like the navigation was working the whole time but the display signals were not making it to the screen, as I can hear it make noise when I click on the blank screen. It appears that 2 of the pins for the on the connector circled in red in the picture above had popped from the connectors. I noticed this as I was starting to cut wire by wire to solder into the new connectors.
It seems like the navigation was working the whole time but the display signals were not making it to the screen, as I can hear it make noise when I click on the blank screen. It appears that 2 of the pins for the on the connector circled in red in the picture above had popped from the connectors. I noticed this as I was starting to cut wire by wire to solder into the new connectors.
#37
hey
I got the same issue broo.. And the solution is so simple
There is a smart switch down the dashboard near the tire pressure reset button and its named by smart if its out press it in if its in press is out its just a switch in mine as long as its switch one and pressed in its working I also thought that my smart key had to be reset and all but all I did was search on the net and found out that the switch is down there best of luckk
There is a smart switch down the dashboard near the tire pressure reset button and its named by smart if its out press it in if its in press is out its just a switch in mine as long as its switch one and pressed in its working I also thought that my smart key had to be reset and all but all I did was search on the net and found out that the switch is down there best of luckk
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stuartacoh (04-16-20)
#38
My valet key is the only key that will lock and unlock the car. Just changed battery in the main key with no luck. Door locks work from inside the car. I have a green light on the dash when I get into the car along with a flashing red light next to the green light. Switch is on underneath also.
#39
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
My valet key is the only key that will lock and unlock the car. Just changed battery in the main key with no luck. Door locks work from inside the car. I have a green light on the dash when I get into the car along with a flashing red light next to the green light. Switch is on underneath also.
#40
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Where is the smart key reset button in relation to the tire pressure reset button? I feel only one under there.
#41
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#43
Pole Position
#44
Driver School Candidate
Had the same exact issue last night.... key fob worked to manually open and close doors , but no sensing to open, close or start car. Techstream had code b2775 for the steering lock. Somehow I pressed the smart key disable button on the kick panel....and problem solved. For future reference. It is a smart key disable switch.... meaning when when the button is pushed inward the switch is engaged and smart key is disabled. Normal operation would be smart key enabled, and the switch would be outward.
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ebxgsxr (08-17-18)
#45
thanks ElZafiro, as i was trying to mess with my tire reset, i accidentally did something with the smart key and it stopped working. didn't open anything when i tried to leave for work the next day. i knew it was something i did, so i just started pressing buttons down there and got it working again. but at least now i know exactly what to do.