Alternator replacement 2005 LS 430
08-02-14, 12:16 PM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Alternator replacement 2005 LS 430
I searched and could not find a start to finish alternator replacement for my 2005 LS 430 so I decided to document my morning's activities. My car has 175,000 miles and this appears to be the original Denso unit, not bad.
My alternator light came on about a week ago and 2 shops diagnosed a low voltage situation. Sure enough 13.6 volts is just outside of the recommended 13.7 – 14.3 or so range.
I got a Ultima rebuilt one online from O'Reily Auto shipped to my house for $153.69 minus the core charge so total with tax was $127.19 when I did the swap and return of old alternator to the store.
I should have opened the box for inspection immediately because when I was at the shop ready to do the R2 I found that the positive terminal of the rebuilt unit was bent about 1mm and it broke the plastic insulator. I already had the old unit off the car so I was stuck putting the old insulator on the rebuilt unit. Had I checked earlier I would have ordered another rebuilt alternator. This rebuilt unit has a lifetime warranty so I went with it.
Steps:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove the wide black air cleaner inlet which is over the radiator/fan/belts, held in place by 2 plastic screws on the left and right ends.
3. Remove the serpentine belt as shown in first diagram, by turning the bolt you are not actually removing any bolts, just using the bolt to leverage the spring loaded pulley out of the way. This removes the tension on the entire belt allowing it to be removed.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the power steering lines in place (second picture). This just provides clearance to get the alternator out the bottom of the car. You are not disconnecting any lines and not loosing any fluid from the power steering system
5. Remove one bolt and 2 nuts holding the alternator to the engine shown in third diagram. I think these were a 14mm socket.
6. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the ground cable.
7. Remove the clip with 4 small electrical wires and the one nut for the positive cable.
8. The alternator will now wiggle free out the bottom past the PS lines and sway bar.
Reverse everything to install new part. I now have 14.0 volts which is in appropriate range.
Just to complete the thread, here is the procedure to check battery/alternator voltage using the car display (shown in last photo) Thanks to user LYNZOID:
Press and hold the OPTION hard button and hold down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push MENU, "Display Check", then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the last photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reported 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V. This now reads 14.0 volts with the rebuilt alternator.
My alternator light came on about a week ago and 2 shops diagnosed a low voltage situation. Sure enough 13.6 volts is just outside of the recommended 13.7 – 14.3 or so range.
I got a Ultima rebuilt one online from O'Reily Auto shipped to my house for $153.69 minus the core charge so total with tax was $127.19 when I did the swap and return of old alternator to the store.
I should have opened the box for inspection immediately because when I was at the shop ready to do the R2 I found that the positive terminal of the rebuilt unit was bent about 1mm and it broke the plastic insulator. I already had the old unit off the car so I was stuck putting the old insulator on the rebuilt unit. Had I checked earlier I would have ordered another rebuilt alternator. This rebuilt unit has a lifetime warranty so I went with it.
Steps:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove the wide black air cleaner inlet which is over the radiator/fan/belts, held in place by 2 plastic screws on the left and right ends.
3. Remove the serpentine belt as shown in first diagram, by turning the bolt you are not actually removing any bolts, just using the bolt to leverage the spring loaded pulley out of the way. This removes the tension on the entire belt allowing it to be removed.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the power steering lines in place (second picture). This just provides clearance to get the alternator out the bottom of the car. You are not disconnecting any lines and not loosing any fluid from the power steering system
5. Remove one bolt and 2 nuts holding the alternator to the engine shown in third diagram. I think these were a 14mm socket.
6. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the ground cable.
7. Remove the clip with 4 small electrical wires and the one nut for the positive cable.
8. The alternator will now wiggle free out the bottom past the PS lines and sway bar.
Reverse everything to install new part. I now have 14.0 volts which is in appropriate range.
Just to complete the thread, here is the procedure to check battery/alternator voltage using the car display (shown in last photo) Thanks to user LYNZOID:
Press and hold the OPTION hard button and hold down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push MENU, "Display Check", then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the last photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reported 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V. This now reads 14.0 volts with the rebuilt alternator.
Last edited by chunkyda; 08-02-14 at 12:23 PM.
08-04-14, 09:54 AM
#4
Thanks. Great write up. I just went and tried the menu trick out. I was only getting 13.4 with the car running and lights on. Maybe the alternator was not charging at that moment. Anyone else see what voltage you are getting?
Look at this. Says 13.5 constant voltage on the OEM Denso.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...581&cc=1426092
Look at this. Says 13.5 constant voltage on the OEM Denso.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...581&cc=1426092
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 08-04-14 at 10:00 AM.
08-04-14, 10:49 AM
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
When the battery light came on in my car, the Auto Zone charging system checker as well as my independant mechanic's machine indicated a low output. I was able to drive the car for a week between waiting on the mail order part and scheduling to get it in for the work. I had a free Saturday morning so I just decided to R2 it myself. Now mine reads 13.9 at idle and 14.0 at 2500 RPM on the dashboard screen. Output at the alternator is supposed to be regulated at 14.4 so I figure the driving lights and other small draws eat up a bit.
I really didn't want to risk failure on the road when I would be forced to tow or get stuck somewhere.
I really didn't want to risk failure on the road when I would be forced to tow or get stuck somewhere.
08-04-14, 11:05 AM
#6
When I drive home today I'll see how she acts. I'm just wondering if you can use the monitor to see if the alternator is going bad. And I see what you mean. 13.4 at the monitor does not mean you are not getting 14 or more at the alternator.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 08-04-14 at 11:12 AM.
08-04-14, 12:18 PM
#7
Thanks. Great write up. I just went and tried the menu trick out. I was only getting 13.4 with the car running and lights on. Maybe the alternator was not charging at that moment. Anyone else see what voltage you are getting?
Look at this. Says 13.5 constant voltage on the OEM Denso.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...581&cc=1426092
Look at this. Says 13.5 constant voltage on the OEM Denso.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...581&cc=1426092
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08-04-14, 07:57 PM
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08-05-14, 10:45 PM
#11
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thanks for the info. Now I will be checking my car see what the volts are. I've upgraded my alternator to a 320amp H.O with upgraded XS battery D2400 in front and 2XS battery D3100 in the rears. While also doing the big 3 connection with 2/0 gauge OFC wire
08-06-14, 07:52 AM
#12
I've only been able to get the Lexus screen to display the Voltage once. For whatever reason, I've tried numerous times to get it to display by holding in the option button and turning the parking lights or headlights on and off 3 and sometimes 5 times and the display does not come on.
Last edited by Bocatrip; 08-06-14 at 07:59 AM.
08-06-14, 08:06 AM
#13
How quickly are you clicking the parking lights? I have not had to click on the full headlight to get into the menus. There are some other menus too. I just hold option and do 3 quick clicks of the parking lights.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 08-06-14 at 08:14 AM.
08-06-14, 11:59 AM
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I searched and could not find a start to finish alternator replacement for my 2005 LS 430 so I decided to document my morning's activities. My car has 175,000 miles and this appears to be the original Denso unit, not bad.
My alternator light came on about a week ago and 2 shops diagnosed a low voltage situation. Sure enough 13.6 volts is just outside of the recommended 13.7 – 14.3 or so range.
I got a Ultima rebuilt one online from O'Reily Auto shipped to my house for $153.69 minus the core charge so total with tax was $127.19 when I did the swap and return of old alternator to the store.
I should have opened the box for inspection immediately because when I was at the shop ready to do the R2 I found that the positive terminal of the rebuilt unit was bent about 1mm and it broke the plastic insulator. I already had the old unit off the car so I was stuck putting the old insulator on the rebuilt unit. Had I checked earlier I would have ordered another rebuilt alternator. This rebuilt unit has a lifetime warranty so I went with it.
Steps:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove the wide black air cleaner inlet which is over the radiator/fan/belts, held in place by 2 plastic screws on the left and right ends.
3. Remove the serpentine belt as shown in first diagram, by turning the bolt you are not actually removing any bolts, just using the bolt to leverage the spring loaded pulley out of the way. This removes the tension on the entire belt allowing it to be removed.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the power steering lines in place (second picture). This just provides clearance to get the alternator out the bottom of the car. You are not disconnecting any lines and not loosing any fluid from the power steering system
5. Remove one bolt and 2 nuts holding the alternator to the engine shown in third diagram. I think these were a 14mm socket.
6. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the ground cable.
7. Remove the clip with 4 small electrical wires and the one nut for the positive cable.
8. The alternator will now wiggle free out the bottom past the PS lines and sway bar.
Reverse everything to install new part. I now have 14.0 volts which is in appropriate range.
Just to complete the thread, here is the procedure to check battery/alternator voltage using the car display (shown in last photo) Thanks to user LYNZOID:
Press and hold the OPTION hard button and hold down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push MENU, "Display Check", then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the last photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reported 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V. This now reads 14.0 volts with the rebuilt alternator.
My alternator light came on about a week ago and 2 shops diagnosed a low voltage situation. Sure enough 13.6 volts is just outside of the recommended 13.7 – 14.3 or so range.
I got a Ultima rebuilt one online from O'Reily Auto shipped to my house for $153.69 minus the core charge so total with tax was $127.19 when I did the swap and return of old alternator to the store.
I should have opened the box for inspection immediately because when I was at the shop ready to do the R2 I found that the positive terminal of the rebuilt unit was bent about 1mm and it broke the plastic insulator. I already had the old unit off the car so I was stuck putting the old insulator on the rebuilt unit. Had I checked earlier I would have ordered another rebuilt alternator. This rebuilt unit has a lifetime warranty so I went with it.
Steps:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove the wide black air cleaner inlet which is over the radiator/fan/belts, held in place by 2 plastic screws on the left and right ends.
3. Remove the serpentine belt as shown in first diagram, by turning the bolt you are not actually removing any bolts, just using the bolt to leverage the spring loaded pulley out of the way. This removes the tension on the entire belt allowing it to be removed.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the power steering lines in place (second picture). This just provides clearance to get the alternator out the bottom of the car. You are not disconnecting any lines and not loosing any fluid from the power steering system
5. Remove one bolt and 2 nuts holding the alternator to the engine shown in third diagram. I think these were a 14mm socket.
6. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the ground cable.
7. Remove the clip with 4 small electrical wires and the one nut for the positive cable.
8. The alternator will now wiggle free out the bottom past the PS lines and sway bar.
Reverse everything to install new part. I now have 14.0 volts which is in appropriate range.
Just to complete the thread, here is the procedure to check battery/alternator voltage using the car display (shown in last photo) Thanks to user LYNZOID:
Press and hold the OPTION hard button and hold down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push MENU, "Display Check", then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the last photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reported 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V. This now reads 14.0 volts with the rebuilt alternator.
