alanchad

iTrader: (1)

Getting ready to replace suspension on my 2001 ls430 and trying to get everything lined up.

I found this information for my sc400 when I changed it and it really helped speed up the process.

Don't know if similar information exists for the LS.

If anyone has this, please post up.

Thanks in advance,

Alan

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

by suspension im going to guess that you are going to do the shocks and springs. there are 2 DIYs for the front and rear in the forum, just search for it.

alanchad

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply.

I am converting from air to mechanical; all shocks, springs, etc associated with that.

Also replacing upper and lower control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, links and bushings, etc.

I have read the threads you referred to, but still haven't found the tool information.

Again thanks for the response.

Alan

ancdmd

How many miles do you have on the car? I replaced everything on my 2002 at around 115k miles, turns out some of the parts just fine, especially the upper control arms. I should have checked them to make sure they were really in need of replacement since they were the very expensive. Ball joints/tie rods are cheap and should definitely be replaced though.

alanchad

iTrader: (1)

I just turned 250k miles.

Things starting squeaking/popping, etc, so I decided to replace everything.

Thanks for the input.

Alan

BradTank

There's so many tools to list for the entire suspension to be redone, I just think you need to have your toolbox nearby and be ready to use all of them. There's definitely some common sizes, but it's a little bit of everything. If you've redone the suspension on a SC400, my guess is most of it is VERY close in terms of the same types of tools and bolt sizes. That guide would probably be 90% of the same tools.

I HIGHLY recommend investing in some air tools if you're truly rebuilding the entire suspension, even a cheap impact gun from places like Harbor Freight make things so much easier. Also, make sure you have a torque wrench, I don't like having to guesstimate. Even a cheap one is a lot more accurate than guessing. And get some Loctite.

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

from my experience i will tell you that you will need a 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21mm wrenches and sockets.

alanchad

iTrader: (1)

Thanks BradTank and Licelsior.

alanchad

iTrader: (1)

Converted my 2001 ls430 with 250k miles from air suspension to springs/shocks this weekend.

One air shock had failed completely, and the others were very greasy so failure of those looked

to be imminent.

Also replaced front upper and lower control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links and

bushings, and lower control arm rear bushings.

The most worn parts were the rear lca bushings; upper control arms appeared to be the least

worn. Probably did not really need these, but with 250k and already torn down did them anyway.

I also replaced front and rear brake pads, and changed oil and filter while up.

I used all oem parts and the regular shock/spring combo(not the sport setup).

Shock/spring assemblies were $1413.

Suspension parts were $1768.

Pads were $100, $90 to dealer to put springs/shocks together, and $25 to press in the new lower

control arm rear bushings.

Total $3396 for parts labor.

The car rides like a dream now.

I will get an alignment this week although I carefully marked the original cam and tie rod positions

and returned to them. The car tracks great.

Thanks to all who responded to this thread and for the master thread.

All were very helpful.

Alan

Coulter

Wow, that was quite a project.

Did you take any pics? Any tips to pass on? Were you able to get a hold of a factory service manual to get all the specs (ie torque ft lbs)

I need to do much of this, I've started getting together the parts.

alanchad

iTrader: (1)

Dealer did an alignment and noted camber was out a little, toe was out a lot.

Tech said it aligned as well as a new car now.

Another $100 so total job $3500.

I can hardly believe how tight and smooth the ride is now.

Alan

alanchad

iTrader: (1)

No pictures.

One tip is 64 years old is too old to be rolling around on a creeper under a car

Seriously, air tools made the job MUCH easier/faster.

A rack for raising up and down would have helped a lot.

The front lower control bushing rear bushing( the one that has to be pressed on)

has to be oriented a certain way indicated by a notch( it is shown in the manual).

The control arms should be raised and tightened in the position as though the tire was on the

ground. Otherwise this stresses the bushings.

The spring/shock assembly is dangerous, so I had that part done by the dealer.

I cut the air lines. There is an air line separator tool that would be used otherwise.

The air line in the rear can be accessed by removing a few screws on the wheel well

liner near the air shock and not have to remove the entire liner.

I did not separate the rear top ball joint, just used a 6 foot pry bar to press down to make room.

If I did it again, I would probably separate that joint to make the replacement shock fit easier.

Be sure to tighten and torque everything. It is EASY to miss a bolt or nut.

Take pictures before starting to reference when putting it back together, or, the repair manual

can be used for this.

Be sure and reinstall the ride height control arms, and remove the 40W fuse to the

air suspension( in the box next to the battery) so no warning lights come on.

Get an alignment asap as the toe on mine was out bad enough to quickly ruin tires.

Yes I used manuals available at techinfo.toyota.com. Cost $15 for 3 days use, so I printed

all the info I needed including torque specs before starting.

Take your time and think safety first.

Guess that's about it.

I want to again thank everyone for all the info and assistance here on the forum.

Alan