Ls430 engine locked up 2002
04-12-14, 06:00 PM
#31
My money says there's a large 500 pound piece of aluminum under the hood that remarkably resembles a 3UZ-FE engine only this one is friction welded into a solid block.
It's probably not just me but, if an oil light comes on I really can't turn it off fast enough.
I guess I'm used to assuming the worst - that it's not getting oil and quickly getting to work on the cylinder walls and crank journals.
If the car is otherwise in nice shape I expect you'd be dollars ahead to cruise recycle yards for a pulled engine and do a swap. An oil starved engine is expensive and time consuming to resuscitate and a lot of heat treatment to the various metal parts is all lost.
It's probably not just me but, if an oil light comes on I really can't turn it off fast enough.
I guess I'm used to assuming the worst - that it's not getting oil and quickly getting to work on the cylinder walls and crank journals.
If the car is otherwise in nice shape I expect you'd be dollars ahead to cruise recycle yards for a pulled engine and do a swap. An oil starved engine is expensive and time consuming to resuscitate and a lot of heat treatment to the various metal parts is all lost.
04-12-14, 08:20 PM
#32
How long were u driving it with the oil light on?
Did u notice the engine temp higher then usual?
I drove my first Honda for weeks with literally no oil , and the engine wouldn't die .
The 3uz is a much more complex engine so it might not be able to handle that kind of abuse , but I still hold out some hope your engine isn't seized.
Did u notice the engine temp higher then usual?
I drove my first Honda for weeks with literally no oil , and the engine wouldn't die .
The 3uz is a much more complex engine so it might not be able to handle that kind of abuse , but I still hold out some hope your engine isn't seized.
04-13-14, 04:32 PM
#33
I think the least expensive and next test is to put a breaker bar and proper socket on the crank pulley and try and see if it will turn clockwise. If it turns at least a quarter turn or even less - but turns, you can move on to the next diagnosis. You should be able to get a long enough bar and a socket at a Craftsman store (Sears?) or from Harbor Freight. I'm not sure of the socket size but other posters on here are experts that probably know this in their sleep. Is it 22mm? Get the biggest heaviest bar and socket you can find that fits down there. At least 18" to 24" and 1/2 or bigger. This shouldn't cost more than $30 or so.
If it passes this test, get back to us and we can try and help with a step by step analysis and some ideas.
Until we cross the Rubicon with this test your time is probably wasted.
Let's hope it turns....
If it passes this test, get back to us and we can try and help with a step by step analysis and some ideas.
Until we cross the Rubicon with this test your time is probably wasted.
Let's hope it turns....
04-14-14, 05:32 AM
#34
to help with the hand crank try this...pull the plugs and squirt either transmission fluid or marvel mystery oil into the cylinders. Let it soak for a while and then try the hand cranking with a breaker bar. We use to free up marine engines that way years ago.
04-15-14, 01:19 PM
#35
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The light was on for about a 4 days and no problems with engine getting hot, which is another issue that kinda has me puzzled ? if the motor seized I would think that the friction caused from this would cause some heat issues ? But nonetheless I agree with everybody it does seem like it almost has to be locked up ? I will do the crank test and repost the results, and btw thank you for suggesting this plan of action and offering actual help it is greatly appreciated and is something that really helps ,the dealership is over an hour away Lol and I would really like to know the extent of my options before I tow 
so again thank you
so again thank you
04-15-14, 02:33 PM
#36
The light was on for about a 4 days and no problems with engine getting hot, which is another issue that kinda has me puzzled ? if the motor seized I would think that the friction caused from this would cause some heat issues ? But nonetheless I agree with everybody it does seem like it almost has to be locked up ? I will do the crank test and repost the results, and btw thank you for suggesting this plan of action and offering actual help it is greatly appreciated and is something that really helps ,the dealership is over an hour away Lol and I would really like to know the extent of my options before I tow so again thank you
so again thank youMeaning if your engine was running hotter would the computer tell the cooling system to work harder to keep the temps low I have a feeling this is the case
Anyways u must be very rich because it seems like u don't care very much about your engine lol I would of been panicking and took at least a week off work to figure it out by now
04-15-14, 02:38 PM
#37
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The light was on for about a 4 days and no problems with engine getting hot, which is another issue that kinda has me puzzled ? if the motor seized I would think that the friction caused from this would cause some heat issues ? But nonetheless I agree with everybody it does seem like it almost has to be locked up ? I will do the crank test and repost the results, and btw thank you for suggesting this plan of action and offering actual help it is greatly appreciated and is something that really helps ,the dealership is over an hour away Lol and I would really like to know the extent of my options before I tow so again thank you
so again thank you
04-16-14, 06:04 AM
#38
The computer does not control the cooling system, the thermostat does.
Also, the temperature sensor switches do (but indirectly), by controlling the fans behind the radiator.
IIRC, that circuit does not go through the ECM computer.
Even when the coolant temperature is normal, a local spot (like a main bearing journal) can be very much over its design temperature, perhaps enough to be destroyed and seize the engine.
The coolant temp only indicates the overall engine temp.
Also, the temperature sensor switches do (but indirectly), by controlling the fans behind the radiator.
IIRC, that circuit does not go through the ECM computer.
Even when the coolant temperature is normal, a local spot (like a main bearing journal) can be very much over its design temperature, perhaps enough to be destroyed and seize the engine.
The coolant temp only indicates the overall engine temp.
04-16-14, 04:49 PM
#39
The computer does not control the cooling system, the thermostat does.
Also, the temperature sensor switches do (but indirectly), by controlling the fans behind the radiator.
IIRC, that circuit does not go through the ECM computer.
Even when the coolant temperature is normal, a local spot (like a main bearing journal) can be very much over its design temperature, perhaps enough to be destroyed and seize the engine.
The coolant temp only indicates the overall engine temp.
Also, the temperature sensor switches do (but indirectly), by controlling the fans behind the radiator.
IIRC, that circuit does not go through the ECM computer.
Even when the coolant temperature is normal, a local spot (like a main bearing journal) can be very much over its design temperature, perhaps enough to be destroyed and seize the engine.
The coolant temp only indicates the overall engine temp.
Please let us know the results of your crank test. We will hopefully provide a better direction to pursue at that point. I'm lighting incense and depositing alms on your behalf. Good luck.
Don't do this again
08-15-15, 03:59 PM
#40
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Hoping someone can help me with this I have a 2002 lexus Ls430 with approximately 170,000 miles on it ,one owner It has been serviced regularly since it was new the car has ran perfect never a noise in the engine well the low oil pressure light came but oil levels were good and car sounded great so I figured it was a sensor and I would drive it until I could get it into the dealership the next week since it is about an hour away from where I live , the other day when I pulled Into my driveway after I had came almost to a stop rpms down the engine died , motor didn't make a noise before dying either no rattling no knocking it was just as smooth sounding as it ever was but after it locked up it will not turn over will not do anything ? Checked the oil there doesn't seem to be any noticeable metal shavings in it or anything and so I'm just wondering is there anything in that engine that would cause it to lock up like that when oil pump is having problems other than the motor seizing up ? Just is strange for no engine noise or anything before it locked up like that for it to be engine seizing although that's most likely the only thing it could be ? Any help would be greatly appreciated
08-15-15, 08:18 PM
#41
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rdeemerjr - Check the start date on this thread - the OP is long since gone, along with his doa motor
08-15-15, 11:56 PM
#43
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