SLLTO

So heres the deal...

Recently the sub of the ML system in my LS430 has "blown" (not really, just have the rattle from the surround prob being ripped)...i was just going to replace it with a aftermarket sub in the deck. Started doing some research and for the that stock ML sub had a abnormal OHM ratting and no one sells subs to match. Also I read multiple times that if you replace with a 4 or 8 ohm you run the risk of overheating and blowing the ML amp which is $2000 to replace (NO THANK YOU) the problem now comes as it makes no sense to pay $300 from the dealer to replace.

What has everyone done for replacement or sub upgrade on a stock deck? if you went aftermarket did you replace the ML sub or add a box to the trunk and if so how did you connect it

i need to get my bass back asap...cant live without it....its not the same

i saw a post when i first got the car of how to access the sub with pictures and repair in one post but now i cant find it for the life of me....PISSED

HiloDB1

iTrader: (3)

Not to be a complete **** but did you try a search? There are multiple posts on this exact subject already. Please use the forums search function.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah search for it. Tons of threads. They sell repair kits on ebay too.

Jabberwock

ML speaker prices from the dealer border insanity considering the crappy quality of the ML sub.

Try this instead - 8 inch 16 ohm - same quality, no...actually better quality as ML but costs less than $25

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-1455

walleyeman

If I had seen Jabberwock's post above I probably would have gone that route.

I got a foam repair kit and replaced the foam. It's easy but takes time. For the same amount as I paid for the kit you can just replace the whole thing and do it a lot quicker. I can not comment on the sound quality as the darn thing was blown when I got the car.

warminwisc

Interesting JW I asked a sound store last Sat. about my blown amp and he felt it was better to go up in ohm's than down for the ML amp. Thanks

BMW7_LS430

That is correct! Higher ohms will draw less amperes for the same voltage.
Lower ohms will overload the amp by drawing more current than it can support.

By the way, I just glued the ML subwoofer and I have 8 ohm one on standby. Right now I am pretty happy with the sound but I don;t know if replacing the sub will sound better or worse. I am guessing better but I am staying put until I have no option but to replace sub.

Bocatrip

Refoaming works the majority of the time with the biggest savings. Mine has worked for over 2 1/2 years with plenty of blasting.

Jabberwock

Lower ohms means lower resistance that does put more "load" on the amp not in the way most people think. Think about it this way - you can short circuit the amp on the speaker terminals by connecting one wire between + and - terminals - that would be 0 ohms and it would overheat and short the amp. So higher ohms is more resistance (and less like a straight copper wire short circuit). So more resistance (greater ohms) allows the amp to work against some resistance. On the other side of the coin, everything else being equal, higher the ohm speaker will not be as loud as a lower ohm speaker on same amp.


You could also buy a 4 ohm sub and add a 12 ohm resister in series and that would work but the speaker would have much lower volume. A speaker designed with 16 ohm load would not typically have reduced volume as a 4 ohm speaker that was wired with a 12 ohm resister so its better to get the right or close to ohm matched speaker. That being said 8 ohm is not that far off a 16 ohm. What you want to avoid is 4 or 2 ohm speakers in an amp circuit designed for 12-16 ohms - because when the resistance in the circuit is that low on an amp that isnt designed for super low ohm speakers it will usually trip the amp's circuit protection or in some cases damage the amp.

SLLTO

this is some great info and the best matching sub im seen yet to the stock and the price is just delicious

LEX ES300

I was in the same boat as you - if you live in the USA then there are plenty of options including refoaming etc. In my Country there's virtually no options, plus my speaker had tiny tears in the acutal cone not just the surround and there's no way I was going to risk blowing the amp so I went with Factory OEM. I ordered it from the USA and fitted it myself using a guide on the forum thanks to other CL members. Just do some searches I cant remember what the link was. Some say its expensive but it was worth it to me.
Here's my thread when I did mine:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...laced-yay.html

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Looking at your thread Lexus es300, I just realized my car did not did not come with that rear center mat. Interesting. I wonder if it's missing or maybe it never had one. I also had the buzzing sub issue. Mine is glued with flexible silicone right now and working good but I did find a new OEM on eBay for $200 that I will install at some point. My OEM cone is brown and the new one is black. Hopefully they updated it for longevity. I'm sure the ceramic tint will go a long way helping with this as well. It's the exposure to the sun that destroys the cones on these things.

LEX ES300

As far as I know the centre mat only came on the Australian and some japanese versions not on USA models. I just bought some new mats for rhd but it took me a year to find them and cost me A LOT. Check out my other thread. Good luck with the sub. I keep my rear blind up on the back windscreen whenever I can to help protect the sub too.

740ilsamue

Hi Jab, I read the webpage, and it states that this 8ohm sub is conventional to 4 ohm to 16 ohms. Does that mean it will need to be wired in series to become a 16 ohm sub?

TTurboPimp

iTrader: (12)

I replaced mine with a Polk Audio dual 4ohm wired in series for an 8ohm load, works fine and was only like $55