[Video] How to replace your front pads and rotors
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[Video] How to replace your front pads and rotors
Hi, I had a squeal coming so wanted to fix it, thought I'd make a video. Will be making more in the near future, I am hoping for transmission fluid change, starter motor change, timing belt, and what to do with a leaking rear ac pipe. All on the LS430.
Any tips are also welcome as this is my first video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmhZ0...ature=youtu.be
Any tips are also welcome as this is my first video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmhZ0...ature=youtu.be
#3
Nice vid but a few things. 1 what was with that cotter pin? It was mangled when removed and you installed the same one back? The pin should just pull out, and insert back in. What you have there is like a twist tie. 2 the tension bolts on the calipers are NOT reusable and need to be replaced each time when removed. Also, torque wrench use is recommended. 3. I wash down the pin and retaining bar before reinstall.
Otherwise, very helpful visual.
Otherwise, very helpful visual.
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The pin was only 200-300 miles old, I just managed to give it a yank out as the previous garage did the twist method. I've always done the twist method as it's easier and never had a problem, there is very very little / no pressure on this cotter so it's not an issue. Obviously suspension ones etc should all be replaced.
Yes torque wrench is a good idea, but the size of these bolts and the fact they're calliper bolts mean a tight snug fit is fine. Regarding replacing them, some people do, some don't. Lexus recommend you do, and by all means you can. I just reused mine.
Good practice to clean up the bar, I don't find it necessary as it doesn't hold any value to it. Unlike on the tradition caliper housings where you clean the retaining bracket, that's good practice, but I'd rather spend the time on the bearing face instead of that bar.
Good advice though. Never thought of the torque wrench for new DIYers.
Yes torque wrench is a good idea, but the size of these bolts and the fact they're calliper bolts mean a tight snug fit is fine. Regarding replacing them, some people do, some don't. Lexus recommend you do, and by all means you can. I just reused mine.
Good practice to clean up the bar, I don't find it necessary as it doesn't hold any value to it. Unlike on the tradition caliper housings where you clean the retaining bracket, that's good practice, but I'd rather spend the time on the bearing face instead of that bar.
Good advice though. Never thought of the torque wrench for new DIYers.
Last edited by ipwn; 04-01-13 at 06:35 AM.
#5
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Tension (stretch) bolts should never be reused. They are torqued to a value that actually cause a permanent deflection to the bolt. Consequently, they should never be reused as they may fail. Torque values are absolutely necessary. Suggest, for safety reasons, that the job be redone correctly with proper, new bolts. Not worth the risk without.
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I agree, Lexus would ask you to replace those bolts and torque them appropriately.
I've always reused mine with no problems. Pretty much all non dealers would re-use the bolts. If there was an issue of them failing after re-use, we certainly would have seen multiple reports after 13 years.
IMO they are perfectly reuseable, for extra safety you can throw on some loctite. I've had no problem with my job and never have done doing it this way. I see no safety issue related.
I've always reused mine with no problems. Pretty much all non dealers would re-use the bolts. If there was an issue of them failing after re-use, we certainly would have seen multiple reports after 13 years.
IMO they are perfectly reuseable, for extra safety you can throw on some loctite. I've had no problem with my job and never have done doing it this way. I see no safety issue related.
Last edited by ipwn; 04-03-13 at 10:54 AM.
#7
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Thanks ipwn for the video.
Regarding the brake caliper mounting bolts, the LS430 front brake documentation says:
"A friction stabilizing agent has been applied to the threaded portion of the brake caliper mounting bolts. Therefore, do not reuse bolts when removing and reinstalling the brake caliper."
The service manual (for both front and rear calipers) states "At the time of installation, since the screwed part is an aluminium knuckle, carefully prevent any foreign matter on the screwed surface and excessive tightening. Pull the caliper toward the outside of the vehicle to remove a play between the pin and the knuckle hole. In this condition, tighten the bolts starting from the one at the lower position, in the order of increasing number from ”1” (bottom bolt). Never fail to observe the above order when tightening them to the specified torque. At the time of installation, use 2 new bolts."
Front caliper bolts torque spec is 81 ft*lb, rear caliper bolts 58 ft*lb.
Regarding the brake caliper mounting bolts, the LS430 front brake documentation says:
"A friction stabilizing agent has been applied to the threaded portion of the brake caliper mounting bolts. Therefore, do not reuse bolts when removing and reinstalling the brake caliper."
The service manual (for both front and rear calipers) states "At the time of installation, since the screwed part is an aluminium knuckle, carefully prevent any foreign matter on the screwed surface and excessive tightening. Pull the caliper toward the outside of the vehicle to remove a play between the pin and the knuckle hole. In this condition, tighten the bolts starting from the one at the lower position, in the order of increasing number from ”1” (bottom bolt). Never fail to observe the above order when tightening them to the specified torque. At the time of installation, use 2 new bolts."
Front caliper bolts torque spec is 81 ft*lb, rear caliper bolts 58 ft*lb.
Last edited by StanVanDam; 04-04-13 at 11:27 AM.
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Indeed, another option is to just use loctite on the bolts. That's basically what they are saying, loctite is holding it in, when removed the loctite goes aswell. And then they are saying, don't put the calliper on and tighten the bottom bolt all the way and then the top, go even. As there is protrusion on the calliper, you risk damaging the end if it isn't torqued evenly across the calliper.
At what point do I mention I use a dealer computer service manual
At what point do I mention I use a dealer computer service manual
#9
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Indeed, another option is to just use loctite on the bolts. That's basically what they are saying, loctite is holding it in, when removed the loctite goes aswell. And then they are saying, don't put the calliper on and tighten the bottom bolt all the way and then the top, go even. As there is protrusion on the calliper, you risk damaging the end if it isn't torqued evenly across the calliper.
At what point do I mention I use a dealer computer service manual
At what point do I mention I use a dealer computer service manual
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By torque the bolts evenly, I meant torque it evenly across the calliper so that the pretusions go in evenly, not torque in the sense of getting a torque wrench on there when finally torquing the bolt up.
I don't find it necessary for myself to get the torque wrench out for them.
I don't find it necessary for myself to get the torque wrench out for them.
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