Alternator replacement?
07-26-14, 04:48 PM
#16
^^^
Many thanks for this post! However it is actually the OPTION hard button on the right that is pushed and held down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push "Display Check" then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reports 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V.
Many thanks for this post! However it is actually the OPTION hard button on the right that is pushed and held down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push "Display Check" then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reports 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V.
Last edited by chunkyda; 07-26-14 at 05:00 PM.
07-27-14, 10:13 AM
#18
^^^
Many thanks for this post! However it is actually the OPTION hard button on the right that is pushed and held down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push "Display Check" then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reports 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V.
Many thanks for this post! However it is actually the OPTION hard button on the right that is pushed and held down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push "Display Check" then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reports 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V.
Will this work on my 01? or is it just available on the 04-06?
07-28-14, 09:15 AM
#19
^^^
Many thanks for this post! However it is actually the OPTION hard button on the right that is pushed and held down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push "Display Check" then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reports 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V.
Many thanks for this post! However it is actually the OPTION hard button on the right that is pushed and held down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push "Display Check" then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reports 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V.
04-12-17, 02:13 PM
#22
JEEZ RKW! What's wrong with you? You're slipping buddy! You used to be SO GOOD, you'd post info BEFORE people needed it! You used to read minds! Now?? It took you nearly 4 hours to post info with the exact instructions with pretty pictures. It took you 4 HOURS to post!!! You're becoming not so reliable anymore. I'm not happy to say it, but it's the truth. What's next?---you posting instructions directly from the book with pretty pictures and links and suggested times and prices and sources to purchase from, like, 12 hours after a member posts? You're slippinggggggggggggggggggggg!!!!
*** the above post is sarcastic. i'm honestly AMAZED how much time and effort you consistently invest into this forum.
I'D LIKE TO NOMINATE RKW AS A MODERATOR!
On a side note, I'm wondering when my alternator will give out. She's got 150k original on it. I'm thinking of purchasing NOW, so when it fails, I'll have it on hand.
*** the above post is sarcastic. i'm honestly AMAZED how much time and effort you consistently invest into this forum.
I'D LIKE TO NOMINATE RKW AS A MODERATOR!
On a side note, I'm wondering when my alternator will give out. She's got 150k original on it. I'm thinking of purchasing NOW, so when it fails, I'll have it on hand.
09-20-22, 03:51 AM
#25
Quick note on the removal procedure posted above for RHD LS430 owners:
On right hand drive cars the power steering loop pipe comes from the other side of the rack so is closer to the alternator. As a result, even after loosening it from it's bracket, you won't be able to squeeze the alternator out of the gap.
These were the additional steps I needed to get the alternator out:
- make sure the car is jacked up, wheels off the ground so the anti-roll bar (ARB) is not under load
- remove the plastic side covers (x2) that wrap around the ARB - they are held by two screws each, then gently prise the front edge out from behind/under the wheel well guard. No need to remove the wheel well guards.
- disconnect the four ARB bolts from the rubber mounts. Leave the drop links attached. Make sure the ARB doesn't swing down into your face.
- With the ARB swung out of the way, there is lots of room for the alternator to be dropped out.
Sorry for the thread revival, hope this helps someone, I couldn't find any other mention of the extra steps needed on RHD cars so it caught me out. There are a number of other ways you could do it (drain and remove radiator, or drain and remove the PS system), but the ARB is the least invasive and quickest.
On right hand drive cars the power steering loop pipe comes from the other side of the rack so is closer to the alternator. As a result, even after loosening it from it's bracket, you won't be able to squeeze the alternator out of the gap.
These were the additional steps I needed to get the alternator out:
- make sure the car is jacked up, wheels off the ground so the anti-roll bar (ARB) is not under load
- remove the plastic side covers (x2) that wrap around the ARB - they are held by two screws each, then gently prise the front edge out from behind/under the wheel well guard. No need to remove the wheel well guards.
- disconnect the four ARB bolts from the rubber mounts. Leave the drop links attached. Make sure the ARB doesn't swing down into your face.
- With the ARB swung out of the way, there is lots of room for the alternator to be dropped out.
Sorry for the thread revival, hope this helps someone, I couldn't find any other mention of the extra steps needed on RHD cars so it caught me out. There are a number of other ways you could do it (drain and remove radiator, or drain and remove the PS system), but the ARB is the least invasive and quickest.
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