Club Lexus

Slvr surfr · 02-22-12, 01:49 PM

Hey all, yesterday I replaced the plugs along with oil, air and cabin filters. Also cleaned the MAF sensor too. What a difference in performance and idling I must say. Also noticed my fuel economy goin up slightly.Can't believe how easy this car is to work on yourself. You can save hundreds of dollars if you are slightly mechanically inclined. Some questions I do have tho. I was quoted $300 to do a coolant flush, change brake and steering fluids. Is that a good price and should this be handled by a mechanic or is this a job that a DIYer can handle? Anyone change these items yourselves and how easy is it? Thanks in advance.

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Jabberwock · 02-22-12, 02:35 PM

I'd let them do the brake and coolant but I'd do the PS myself. Search for threads on PS drain and fill - its easy and can be done in 5 minutes with 4-5 repetitions and the fluid will be nice and clean.

I replaced my front brake pads yesterday, hardest part is dismount and remount of the tires. its a 1.5 hr job if you take your time and half of that is tires. Note : I did not turn rotors, no need as they were perfectly smooth.

bigjon42 · 02-22-12, 02:36 PM

How many miles on your LS ? How many since last plug change ?

Slvr surfr · 02-22-12, 04:02 PM

Jabber thats what I was thinking.
Big john, its an 05 with 113k on the clock. I bought the car with 73k on it and I'm not sure if the plugs were changed before then.

Finerwood · 02-24-12, 04:24 AM

I am new here with a 01 Ls. I have changed the brakes front and rear twice so far and it’s not that bad of a job. Just changed the rears and have not figured out how to reset the brake pads are low light at the dash?

Jabberwock · 02-24-12, 05:45 AM

The brake pad wear sensors on the LS are effective but fairly primitive - one time use only - once they have "tripped" - they cannot be reset, they have to be replaced (or they can be diy jury rigged/repaired). Each sensor is basically a wire loop encased in a bit of plastic that is clipped to edge of brake pad. As the pad material wears, the sensor plastic bit wears away and eventually the encased wire loop also wears through breaking continuity, and that is what lights up the dash low brake pad warning light. To get the light to go off you must purchase and replace the brake sensor, or as an alternative you can solder the wire loop back together and just tie off the sensor (not clip it back to the new pad) . This will turn off the warning light but it also leaves you without a brake sensor. Sensors cost between $20-80 depending on where you source them. There are only 2 of them both on passenger side brakes. I just replaced my pads at 35K miles - mail order the pads cost $50 a set OEM Toyota. For my money I'll just replace pads at 35k intervals, and never have to replace the sensor.

jimbosr1 · 02-24-12, 09:22 AM

do the coolant your self.open the drain and drain it and use a wet/dry vac to suck the coolant out of the overflow tank.fill and put a new radiator cap on and you are good to go.p/s fliud is easy.use your wet/dry vac and suck that out too..brake fluid you might have someone do it.

sojah · 02-24-12, 09:35 AM

So I just ordered new pads all the way around and some new front rotors. I do not have a low pad light on my dash but am wondering if I have to purchase new sensors or are the current ones reusable?

Finerwood · 02-24-12, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jabberwock

The brake pad wear sensors on the LS are effective but fairly primitive - one time use only - once they have "tripped" - they cannot be reset, they have to be replaced (or they can be diy jury rigged/repaired). Each sensor is basically a wire loop encased in a bit of plastic that is clipped to edge of brake pad. As the pad material wears, the sensor plastic bit wears away and eventually the encased wire loop also wears through breaking continuity, and that is what lights up the dash low brake pad warning light. To get the light to go off you must purchase and replace the brake sensor, or as an alternative you can solder the wire loop back together and just tie off the sensor (not clip it back to the new pad) . This will turn off the warning light but it also leaves you without a brake sensor. Sensors cost between $20-80 depending on where you source them. There are only 2 of them both on passenger side brakes. I just replaced my pads at 35K miles - mail order the pads cost $50 a set OEM Toyota. For my money I'll just replace pads at 35k intervals, and never have to replace the sensor.

Thanks for the info, the wife will be happy that the light will be off once I change them out. If the wife is happy, life is good

Viper6 · 02-24-12, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbosr1

do the coolant your self.open the drain and drain it and use a wet/dry vac to suck the coolant out of the overflow tank.fill and put a new radiator cap on and you are good to go.p/s fliud is easy.use your wet/dry vac and suck that out too..brake fluid you might have someone do it.

Don't forget the engine block holds near a gallon of fluid... need extensions to get to the drain plugs on both cylinder banks. Since it only calls for it every 5 years, I would spend the time to drain all the fluid, but that's me. Took me longer to find the drain valves the first time than to slip a drain tube over them and get a wrench up there to loosen... next time it shouldn't take but 10-20 minutes extra time, FYI.

Jabberwock · 02-24-12, 03:43 PM

I ruined the water pump on a 1979 Grand Prix trying to do my own coolant flush cause I did not know what I was doing. It ran dry just for a minute and that was enough to fry the bearing.

Finerwood · 02-25-12, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viper6

Don't forget the engine block holds near a gallon of fluid... need extensions to get to the drain plugs on both cylinder banks. Since it only calls for it every 5 years, I would spend the time to drain all the fluid, but that's me. Took me longer to find the drain valves the first time than to slip a drain tube over them and get a wrench up there to loosen... next time it shouldn't take but 10-20 minutes extra time, FYI.

Getting ready to do mine, were are the drain plugs on the cylinder banks? Can you point me to the right area?
Any one ever do the timing belt by them selves?
Thanks
Paul