05 Engine failure
10-31-11, 11:06 AM
#16
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Thanks for the responses.
The car is my father-in-laws. He purchased it new and had it dealer serviced for the first few years then went to an independent. The shop used factory filters, but not sure whay type of oil. The date stamps in the book are not very consistent so an accurate history is elusive. It looks to me like 5000 miles is too long to go on dead dinosaur juice. Some of the intervals between documented changes were less and some almost 8k. So, we might chalk this up to a lack of proper maintenance.
I finally got my hands on the car this weekend. There are already metal shavings in the oil, and it was changed less than 100 miles ago. It has a knock at idle once warmed up, and if you accelerate and cut the throttle, you get knock again. I put a stethoscope on numerous places and it is definitely in the bottom end. My guess is wrist pin or rod bearings, it is a noise from some of the reciprocating components. It is a shame, because the engine still runs very well and makes good power.
We are planning to source a used engine and swap it out. The car is still in good shape otherwise, so it is definitely worth repairing. I am sure I will have lots of questions when we get started. First question, is it easier to removed the engine from below or above? It looks like above is easier at first glance.
The car is my father-in-laws. He purchased it new and had it dealer serviced for the first few years then went to an independent. The shop used factory filters, but not sure whay type of oil. The date stamps in the book are not very consistent so an accurate history is elusive. It looks to me like 5000 miles is too long to go on dead dinosaur juice. Some of the intervals between documented changes were less and some almost 8k. So, we might chalk this up to a lack of proper maintenance.
I finally got my hands on the car this weekend. There are already metal shavings in the oil, and it was changed less than 100 miles ago. It has a knock at idle once warmed up, and if you accelerate and cut the throttle, you get knock again. I put a stethoscope on numerous places and it is definitely in the bottom end. My guess is wrist pin or rod bearings, it is a noise from some of the reciprocating components. It is a shame, because the engine still runs very well and makes good power.
We are planning to source a used engine and swap it out. The car is still in good shape otherwise, so it is definitely worth repairing. I am sure I will have lots of questions when we get started. First question, is it easier to removed the engine from below or above? It looks like above is easier at first glance.
11-01-11, 10:16 AM
#18
Thanks for the responses.
The car is my father-in-laws. He purchased it new and had it dealer serviced for the first few years then went to an independent. The shop used factory filters, but not sure whay type of oil. The date stamps in the book are not very consistent so an accurate history is elusive. It looks to me like 5000 miles is too long to go on dead dinosaur juice. Some of the intervals between documented changes were less and some almost 8k. So, we might chalk this up to a lack of proper maintenance.
I finally got my hands on the car this weekend. There are already metal shavings in the oil, and it was changed less than 100 miles ago. It has a knock at idle once warmed up, and if you accelerate and cut the throttle, you get knock again. I put a stethoscope on numerous places and it is definitely in the bottom end. My guess is wrist pin or rod bearings, it is a noise from some of the reciprocating components. It is a shame, because the engine still runs very well and makes good power.
We are planning to source a used engine and swap it out. The car is still in good shape otherwise, so it is definitely worth repairing. I am sure I will have lots of questions when we get started. First question, is it easier to removed the engine from below or above? It looks like above is easier at first glance.
The car is my father-in-laws. He purchased it new and had it dealer serviced for the first few years then went to an independent. The shop used factory filters, but not sure whay type of oil. The date stamps in the book are not very consistent so an accurate history is elusive. It looks to me like 5000 miles is too long to go on dead dinosaur juice. Some of the intervals between documented changes were less and some almost 8k. So, we might chalk this up to a lack of proper maintenance.
I finally got my hands on the car this weekend. There are already metal shavings in the oil, and it was changed less than 100 miles ago. It has a knock at idle once warmed up, and if you accelerate and cut the throttle, you get knock again. I put a stethoscope on numerous places and it is definitely in the bottom end. My guess is wrist pin or rod bearings, it is a noise from some of the reciprocating components. It is a shame, because the engine still runs very well and makes good power.
We are planning to source a used engine and swap it out. The car is still in good shape otherwise, so it is definitely worth repairing. I am sure I will have lots of questions when we get started. First question, is it easier to removed the engine from below or above? It looks like above is easier at first glance.
You have all the information on this car and we are just reading words off of a screen but it sure makes me want to guess this car has not been serviced as report by the person(s) responsible. Please know not for one second am I questioning your integrity. It's just this engine has been proven all over the globe.
11-01-11, 11:32 AM
#19
Sad...
An oil analysis wouldn't hurt but if the engine is to be yanked and opened up, you'll see it on tear down. This will be beneficial for all of us because generally, these engines are near bombproof. Even with some neglect, dino oil should be passable at 5K, at 8K that may be marginal based on conditions.
Please keep us posted.
An oil analysis wouldn't hurt but if the engine is to be yanked and opened up, you'll see it on tear down. This will be beneficial for all of us because generally, these engines are near bombproof. Even with some neglect, dino oil should be passable at 5K, at 8K that may be marginal based on conditions.
Please keep us posted.
11-01-11, 12:37 PM
#20
one reason I can think of that could have caused this is a bad oil filter. something had to have caused the oil passages through the internals to clog up - my best guess without the teardown - if the rod and or crank bearings get insuffecient lubrication for a long period of time then it would cause this kind of issue, but still unheard of in any UZFE engine.
The quality parts in these engines are superior to most. I hope your results do not end up too costly.
The quality parts in these engines are superior to most. I hope your results do not end up too costly.
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