Monroe Strut-Mate Bearing Plates
02-01-11, 11:47 AM
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Monroe Strut-Mate Bearing Plates
Anyone install these instead of the OEM Lexus Strut mounts when doing strut replacement?
http://www.monroe.com/catalog/ecatalog.asp
http://www.monroe.com/catalog/ecatalog.asp
Last edited by lyles3; 02-01-11 at 02:23 PM.
02-02-11, 02:42 AM
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I will keep everyone posted. Pulled the trigger on them last night and purchased from Amazon. $42/mount for fronts and $27/mount for the rears.
02-17-11, 08:48 PM
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Installed Struts, with new mounts and springs
Completed strut install with Monroe Strut mates, OEM Sport Struts and Tanabe NF210 coils. Installed both front strut mates and one on the rear. Both rear strut mounts were not in that bad of condition. The Monroe rear mounts do not come with spring insulator or spring bumper. If I were to do over, I would buy these only from Sewell minus the rear mounts. I installed the fronts first. The first strut took about 3+ hours to install. Tried to avoid removing bolt to upper control arm at first. This was part of the problem that caused the job to take so long. Once I removed, the install went a lot more smoothly. The other thing to watch is the orientation of the strut when you put the strut, mount and spring together. It took about 3 attempts before I got it right on the first strut.
I removed the rear seat before going to the shop to cut down on shop time. Attempted to remove the fasteners to the rear panel, but ended up breaking them. Once free, pull panel from the side panel so that you can lift high enough to get to the top of the strut. I used an air rachet to speed the chore and avoid excessive cranking to undo. Once again, I tried to avoid removing the upper control arm. I was able to get old strut out by using pry bar. However, when reinstalling the new strut assembly, I was very difficult to get it in. After getting assistance from one of the hobby shop attendants, we were able to line the bottom of the strut to its stud. After banging away with a hammer, I discovered that the holes of the bottom of the strut are different. Once side is bigger than the other. By the time I discovered this, I was out of time and the shop had to close, which left my car stranded there for two additional days (shop opens on M, TH, F, Sat, and Sun). After returning today, I removed strut and adjusted orientation. I reinstalled by myself and found that if you use one hand to guide one of the studs on strut mount into a hole and use the other hand to lift and rotate the strut assembly, you can align by yourself. Once you get holes lined up, hold in place with lifting hand and install one nut to hold in place. After brief arm rest period, you can install ring on top and start all bolts. I removed the rear sway bar mount and the upper control arm and was able to get the lower part of the strut on its stud by myself. Again, you need to ensure you get the big hole on the right side.
For the final rear strut, I left upper bolts in place, loosened the lower strut bolt (used 19mm impact wrench), loosened the rear upper control arm bolt (19mm wrench, it looks as if you wouldn't be able to break it, but with a bit of force it breaks pretty easily) and the sway bar bracket on that side (12mm). The is also a bracket that holds the brake sensor that you should undo (10mm). Tap the rear control arm with a hammer to break free. Once loose, you lower part of the strut comes free easily. I laid new and old strut side by side to gauge orientation. I made a few chalk marks as well. If I didn't mention, I reused the spring insulator and spring bumper. Once assembled, the strut was perfectly orientated for install. Repeated same process of using one hand to guide top of strut into holes while lifting with other hand. Altogether, took about 3 hours for the first rear strut and about 30 mins for the second.
I used lift and floor jack. I thought that the suspension would fall one lower part of the strut was free, but it doesn't. Even when the control arm is loosened, it doesn't just fall down. The floor jack is still good to provide some leverage.
I am in the military and completed the install at the auto hobby shop on base. The have a wall mounted spring compressor.
I'll try to post a few pics later. Ride is a bit stiffer than before which was expected since my car is a non sport, but still smooth. Best thing of all is that it got rid of the annoying bumpety bump in the front end when hitting bumps. I like the lowered stance too. Hopefully, it doesn't settle any lower though. All told, the parts were (Prices w/shipping):
- ~$223 for front sport struts (Sewell)
- ~$118 for rear sport struts (Carson Toyota)
- $229 for Tanabe springs (Ebay)
- $52/front Monroe Strut mount with insulator (Amazon)
- $27/rear Monroe strut mount with no insulator or bump stop (Amazon)
Took about 7 to 8 hours total and cost $37.50 for stall use at hobby shop. All told, a lot less than near $650 labor my local Toyota dealer quoted with parts over $1000.
I removed the rear seat before going to the shop to cut down on shop time. Attempted to remove the fasteners to the rear panel, but ended up breaking them. Once free, pull panel from the side panel so that you can lift high enough to get to the top of the strut. I used an air rachet to speed the chore and avoid excessive cranking to undo. Once again, I tried to avoid removing the upper control arm. I was able to get old strut out by using pry bar. However, when reinstalling the new strut assembly, I was very difficult to get it in. After getting assistance from one of the hobby shop attendants, we were able to line the bottom of the strut to its stud. After banging away with a hammer, I discovered that the holes of the bottom of the strut are different. Once side is bigger than the other. By the time I discovered this, I was out of time and the shop had to close, which left my car stranded there for two additional days (shop opens on M, TH, F, Sat, and Sun). After returning today, I removed strut and adjusted orientation. I reinstalled by myself and found that if you use one hand to guide one of the studs on strut mount into a hole and use the other hand to lift and rotate the strut assembly, you can align by yourself. Once you get holes lined up, hold in place with lifting hand and install one nut to hold in place. After brief arm rest period, you can install ring on top and start all bolts. I removed the rear sway bar mount and the upper control arm and was able to get the lower part of the strut on its stud by myself. Again, you need to ensure you get the big hole on the right side.
For the final rear strut, I left upper bolts in place, loosened the lower strut bolt (used 19mm impact wrench), loosened the rear upper control arm bolt (19mm wrench, it looks as if you wouldn't be able to break it, but with a bit of force it breaks pretty easily) and the sway bar bracket on that side (12mm). The is also a bracket that holds the brake sensor that you should undo (10mm). Tap the rear control arm with a hammer to break free. Once loose, you lower part of the strut comes free easily. I laid new and old strut side by side to gauge orientation. I made a few chalk marks as well. If I didn't mention, I reused the spring insulator and spring bumper. Once assembled, the strut was perfectly orientated for install. Repeated same process of using one hand to guide top of strut into holes while lifting with other hand. Altogether, took about 3 hours for the first rear strut and about 30 mins for the second.
I used lift and floor jack. I thought that the suspension would fall one lower part of the strut was free, but it doesn't. Even when the control arm is loosened, it doesn't just fall down. The floor jack is still good to provide some leverage.
I am in the military and completed the install at the auto hobby shop on base. The have a wall mounted spring compressor.
I'll try to post a few pics later. Ride is a bit stiffer than before which was expected since my car is a non sport, but still smooth. Best thing of all is that it got rid of the annoying bumpety bump in the front end when hitting bumps. I like the lowered stance too. Hopefully, it doesn't settle any lower though. All told, the parts were (Prices w/shipping):
- ~$223 for front sport struts (Sewell)
- ~$118 for rear sport struts (Carson Toyota)
- $229 for Tanabe springs (Ebay)
- $52/front Monroe Strut mount with insulator (Amazon)
- $27/rear Monroe strut mount with no insulator or bump stop (Amazon)
Took about 7 to 8 hours total and cost $37.50 for stall use at hobby shop. All told, a lot less than near $650 labor my local Toyota dealer quoted with parts over $1000.
12-02-12, 05:45 AM
#5
Intermediate
Strut Mounts
What are the symptoms of bad strut mounts? Is it possible to need just strut mounts and not struts?
I'm referring to the front strut mounts.
I'm referring to the front strut mounts.
12-07-12, 02:57 AM
#6
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I have the same question as sajack
I can hear some funny sound on the front right wheel when climbing the sidewalk or going over speed bump...sounds as if the rubber sitting between the strut and the strut mount is gone - which leads to strut mounting, but I would still like to confirm and hear some other opinions...
I can hear some funny sound on the front right wheel when climbing the sidewalk or going over speed bump...sounds as if the rubber sitting between the strut and the strut mount is gone - which leads to strut mounting, but I would still like to confirm and hear some other opinions...
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