ONashir

Any advise On how to save money with out compromising



This the quote i got for repair parts and labor



Here what was quoted based On

Romanova

Step 1, never go to Midas.
Can you turn wrenches? All of that work is pretty easy. You could do 4 rotors, pads, wires, LCAs, and struts all the way around for about $1k in parts. ALL of those items have been covered extensively in this forums with some great DIY articles. Nothing is really that difficult, the rear struts are probably the most challenging, but still doable, even for a novice mechanic.

If you are not DIY-inclined, you can still do the brakes yourself for next to nothing. That $164 sensor wire for the front is only $20 for a Centric brand (all I run for brake parts) from Rock Auto. Your premium front pads are only $41 and you're at $100 for two Centric premium rotors.

If you are not DIY AT ALL, then shop around. Look for a Lexus indy specialist or try Yelp or Google for a trusted, highly rated indy mechanic near you. But whatever you do, DON'T GO TO MIDAS. I just looked where Benicia is on the map... you should have no trouble finding a Japanese specialist in the area.

GL. If you want to try it yourself, SEARCH first and then ask your questions in the appropriate threads and we will be more than happy to help you. Trust me, everything on that invoice is easily doable with just simple hand tools and with a Cali car, you won't have to worry about rust.

ls430w140

Fully agreed with Romanova.

Also, why are they recommending replacing lca? Did they notice damage to both caster and rear bushings in them? Looks like they are trying to go easy route and just replace the whole thing (dealership method), while the problem could be just the minor crack in rear large bushing (opinion).

I highly suggest to do all this work using DIY method lol. There are plenty of instructions in forum, and you may save tons of money while buying oem parts and/or rockauto.

I do not trust Midas, had bad experience with them before. Second view of a good mechanic is highly recommended. You may be surprised at the results of another diagnostic.

Lzam

Definitely do the brakes yourself get everything off of rockauto. Very easy job to do!

Johnhav430

First of all, never go to the chain shown by the OP. With my 1998 Maxima, having done my exhaust 1X there, and having a lifetime guarantee, I decided to go to 3 of their shops to get estimates, not mentioning I had a lifetime warranty (so it's not computerized?).

Again, decided to be Bill Kurtis, and 3 different locations near me lifted the vehicle, and the quotes ranged from $480 to $750, for the same job. When I said no to the 3rd place, the $480, he said why not? I said wife doesn't want to spend money on this car. He then says well you know we can take another 20% off which would get it under $400? If you ever did let such a place do the work, say no while the vehicle is still on the lift, they will lower the price.

My thing was when I did the exhaust, manager wrote "lifetime warranty on resonator." This was the Walker part that failed in < 18 mos. They would not honor and nothing short of BBB got me anywhere.

Every single job on that estimate is jacked way up. They will likely use Monroe or Gabriel quick struts, utter junk. You can get it done at the dealer for that anyway--so for the money you will get superior parts.

The LCAs I strongly suggest just buying the OE bushings from eBay and having an indie install--I think it runs from $150 to $300 in labor, done.

Brakes if you can't DIY, then how about an indie who allows you to supply the parts? Not only will the parts be cheaper, but they will last longer and be better quality. It's such a shame that they will charge over $160 for a rotor that retails for $30 tops. It's like they charge list price and provide junk. Never go to that king muffler chain, never.....

Johnhav430

I noticed rock now collects sales tax and with shipping it's now almost a wash on some things with amazon (like the spark plugs $6.33 at amazon SK20R11 and $5.90 at rock (yes you can take another 5% but have to pay for shipping). I always felt the tax was a 6% discount then take another 5% so went with them, no longer...and at amazon my credit card does 5% whereas with rock my credit card does 2%....really disappointed with the scotus decision

StanVanDam

I haven't done my own suspension work, but I can for sure say DO THE BRAKES YOURSELF! Someone who has never turned a wrench before can easily learn how to do the brakes on the LS430. The LS430 brake system is extremely easy to work with - pads, rotors, and sensor wires (only 2, RH side). All of those Midas brake prices are way too high. They're gonna use $10 worth of brake cleaner? Can't you buy a whole can yourself for that much? Also they apparently don't know that the 2 long bolts on each caliper should not be reused, because a professional shop shouldn't be reusing one-time-use parts. You need 8 new bolts to do this job properly. They didn't quote you for the one-time-use cotter pins either, but they cost tens of cents each online, and maybe a dollar each at the dealership.

I got 2 brake pad sensor wires off eBay from a China-based seller for under $8 USD shipped to Canada. The cheapest online retailers tend to be RockAuto and Amayama (both of their shipping covers customs - no fees at door), eBay, PartSouq, and Parts.com. PartSouq has similar parts pricing as Amayama but their FedEx hits you with customs at the door. Parts.com seems to have good prices for OEM parts, but they don't ship to Canada so I can't personally vouch for them.

I have tried OEM pads, Akebono ProACTs twice, and have a set of ADVICS AD0870/AD0871 to try on my next pad change. I think OEM is best, but ProACTs are a very close second, and never tested ADVICS yet. Don't throw out the OEM shims! Use brake grease at the correct locations in order to eliminate groans and squeaks, and ensure your rotors are cleaned with brake cleaner to ensure even braking on all wheels.

Several good LCA bushing threads on these forums - some people have replaced theirs and noticed no difference, so best to check that there is actually a problem with them. If there is a problem with them, I echo the suggestion of buying new OEM LCA bushings and having an indie install them.

Regarding struts, I would not use aftermarket parts - go with OEM only, use the Internet to find the cheapest prices shipped to you. I personally wouldn't trust Midas to do suspension work on an LS430. Find an independent who has done the same work on at least one LS430 before and will let you supply the parts.

Trilkb

I was thinking $1800 and as usual its double that lol.

3200? Heck of a deal, I'd call insurance and get an adjuster out there because that thing is a total loss at that price. The only thing I'd do different then what's listed is get coilovers and not screw with doing shocks and strut mounts.

BCT

+ 1 do not go to Midas. If you really want to spend that kind of money, might as well take it to the dealer. At least the waiting room is a heck a lot better and you get a free snacks/lunch.

Also, you are posting your name, address and phone number in the quote.

ebxgsxr

i work at napa, so i was checking around to see which shop we deal with that could change my control arms for me. most were quoting me around 400-500 (hooking me up). an indy shop that a friend owns (he was a toyota then lexus tech prior to opening his own shop) told me 350. then i checked with a meineke shop near work & he told me if i was paying cash, i could pay the tech 150. had it done & then got my lifetime alignment from Firestone and now no more squeaking when driving/going over bumps, lol.

my store sells those lower arms with a lifetime warranty for $165/each.

Johnhav430

Here's what I've learned from my experience. This car opened me up to the world of Mevotech and aftermarket, which I suppose is like Gabriel and Monroe quik struts. There is a multitude of aftermarket parts intended on saving shops' time, so they can write out a quote like the one posted here, use cheaper parts, and make huge margins.

Most here steered me to OE bushings, and going to the trouble of finding a shop with a press. This was less to save money, but more to ensure original quality. Paying someone $150 to $300 to press out and in two bushings is not exactly dirt cheap. That's like me charging you $60 to change your oil, when you could do Mobil 1 with a WIX XP yourself for under $20. But there has to be some cost of course. One can always have Lexus do it for $1,600, they are going to change out the entire arms with original equipment, to include the rear and front bushings (Mevotech is < $70), but all that will be accomplished over the $150-$300 plus OE bushings job is that the front bushing will be new. People here have stated that's not necessary as it does not tend to go bad. I just don't think a $70 arm, when bushings list for way more than that, are like quality. Again, most shops would rather change out the arms over pressing out and in. They are looking for less time, and more margin, which leads to the Mevotech types of arms. my .02

edit think about this one--why would Lexus OE rear bushings even be sold separately, if there is no procedure to do it? Dealers don't want to because most clients will go for the $1,600 job But there are no OE front bushings sold separately.

BCT

If the lower arms is made in Japan or US, this might be a good solution. Some people are ok, me personally, I tried to avoid anything made in China for parts (not trying to get into a debate who make better parts etc).

I can not remember what, but a few years ago, I found a part (maybe a balljoint) that is stamped 555 made in Japan in Autozone box (or maybe Moog), so it is just a matter knowing who actually made it.

ebxgsxr

totally understand. even working at NAPA, there are still things i would rather have the are OEM. but me personally i check the options. one example was the exhaust gaskets. when i replaced my cats due to CEL, i ended up going with the Bosal over Walker. had a shop install them for me & i sent down the gaskets that we listed for the car. got a call from the shop saying that the tech said the gaskets were wrong. kind of odd, but i figured, ok I'll order them from Lexus. but of course, Lexus only had one of the 4 gaskets in stock. i told the shop to get it together as best they could & use the gaskets i had sent earlier & even use some muffler cement if needed to get the car together b/c i had to pick my kids up from school. i figured i could replace the gaskets later since i after replacing the cats, the hardware wouldn't be rusted or hard to get off. well, called the dealer back and "special ordered" the gaskets. well once the gaskets came in i checked them out. the front 2 gaskets were the exact same as the gaskets we had at NAPA. the rear gaskets did look different. but i had to keep the front 2 gaskets since they "special ordered" them for me.

time will tell how the NAPA arms/bushings hold up. hopefully, they do, lol.

ONashir

Are these good
Tnx guys i got overwhelmed ok i got a buddy of mine mechanic will do the labor for $400
i need hellp
with buying
Full break packags rotor pads clips and sensors
lower arms control
Struts

brand name and where to get
i have $800 budget

Peacebay

Please do not go with those parts. With an $800 budget do this:

• Buy Centric front and rear brake kit on Rockauto.com ($225)
• Buy 4 KYB shocks on Rockauto ($400)
• Buy OEM lower control arm bushings on eBay. Link here. Price has gone up since I got them! Jeeeze ($145)

you do not need to get the entire lower control arm assembly, just those bushings I linked. And you also don’t need to purchase new brake wear sensors if yours are still intact, in fact I’d advise against it because it would be a huge waste of money. You can have mine for just the cost of shipping if yours have been triggered.