LS 430 Door Lock Actuator Tutorial
10-01-14, 07:00 PM
#181
Lexus Test Driver
well to answer your question.....and I am only the student....others are the experts. I think the glue question depends on model year. Some that have used zip ties I believe were older LS430 2001 2002???? Not sure which model year they started using screws....but my car is a 2004 and fortunately they used screws in 04.....no glue needed.
Take your time.......label all of the screws and bolts removed.....use blue painters tape on the door to help mark attachment spots etc.........write info on the blue tape.....
Door panel is easy to get off......be sure to have something ready to rest door panel on while u are un snapping all of the electrical connections and cables.....
Read tips from others.....they really come in handy......feel free to call me if u get in a pickle. Im trying to pay it forward. This site has already saved me $1000.00.....
tools needed
Blue tape and a sharpy
Plastic parts tub
trim removal tools ( pack of 4 from Harbor Freight for like 5 bucks....prevents scratching trim
phillips screw drivers....one medium large........one medium long shaft for vent screw
torx driver or bit for drill
Socket set.....10mm
Paint scraper to pry open actuator motor housing
small flat head screw driver for releasing electrical connectors
recycle bin to set door panel on during removal
PM me for number
Good luck
Take your time.......label all of the screws and bolts removed.....use blue painters tape on the door to help mark attachment spots etc.........write info on the blue tape.....
Door panel is easy to get off......be sure to have something ready to rest door panel on while u are un snapping all of the electrical connections and cables.....
Read tips from others.....they really come in handy......feel free to call me if u get in a pickle. Im trying to pay it forward. This site has already saved me $1000.00.....
tools needed
Blue tape and a sharpy
Plastic parts tub
trim removal tools ( pack of 4 from Harbor Freight for like 5 bucks....prevents scratching trim
phillips screw drivers....one medium large........one medium long shaft for vent screw
torx driver or bit for drill
Socket set.....10mm
Paint scraper to pry open actuator motor housing
small flat head screw driver for releasing electrical connectors
recycle bin to set door panel on during removal
PM me for number
Good luck
10-04-14, 06:00 AM
#182
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ok i did this procedure but when i open the lock i get a continued opening/grinding sound like the motor is trying to opening the lock for an additional second or two. any ideas as to what could be causing this?
10-04-14, 10:53 AM
#183
Lexus Test Driver
I have read in these threads about this same scenario...the grinding......too much reading for me to go back and find.....but as I recall they go back in and reverse something and re install w no issues.
If your car was the older model that needed zip ties my guess is that they are not tight enough......
If your car is like mine a 2004LS....it uses screws..........If u read my thread......once inside the actuator where my motor was ....my sprocket had jumped over its stop point....I had to lift sprocket...rotate....then set back down......then check to see if the mechanism swings back and forth........if it does.....re install
Hope any of this helps.....I feel your pain. I have just spent 2 days on my steering wheel telescope motor project and still no worky.....
.
If your car was the older model that needed zip ties my guess is that they are not tight enough......
If your car is like mine a 2004LS....it uses screws..........If u read my thread......once inside the actuator where my motor was ....my sprocket had jumped over its stop point....I had to lift sprocket...rotate....then set back down......then check to see if the mechanism swings back and forth........if it does.....re install
Hope any of this helps.....I feel your pain. I have just spent 2 days on my steering wheel telescope motor project and still no worky.....
.
10-15-14, 09:15 PM
#185
Instructor
I bought 4 of these "10mm Flat Shaft, part number FC-280PC-22125" from http://www.ebay.com/itm/111428067337 - worked out to $40 after shipping to Canada. These fit and work perfectly - directly plug and play.
Also note that FC-280PT-20150 has a shaft that exits the OPPOSITE END as the FC-280PC-22125 motor. You do not want the D-shaft on the same side as the plastic terminal cap.
My driver side motor failed in October 2014, 129,000kms / 12 years 6 months in-service. So far, the other 3 motors are still good.
Tips:
* Budget 3 hours of time if you have an auto-closer. You can probably finish the job in 2 hours on your first time, but add another hour for glitch resolution.
* To remove the metal rod at the door handle, unclip the plastic retainer (by hand or a small flathead), then insert a long screwdriver into the hole across from that part, then gently pry the rod towards the front of the car. The rod will then pop out.
* Completely remove the 2 window rail bolts, and take a good look at where the window rail is, relative to the actuator. You will need to maneuver the actuator around the rail to get it out, then reverse to reinstall. Swing the rail out past the impact beam to get the needed clearance.
* For those with auto-closers, you don't need to ziptie the assembly. In fact, I didn't even bother reinstalling the 7 Philips screws. The 4 Torx T30 nuts with bolts do a good job of clamping the assembly together. I only opened enough of the casing to get at the motor and tried to maintain the original adhesive.
* After switching out the motor, move the plastic white part near the motor to ensure the lock moves properly on and off. The white plastic tab should fit into the first notch (not second) in the little metal thing that moves back and forth.
* Leave your passenger side door window rolled all the way down. This is in case you lock yourself out of the car - if the keyhole mechanism isn't installed properly, your wireless entry will not work AND your key will not work.
* Unplug your battery before reinstalling the actuator. The motions of reinstalling the actuator will likely trip the keyhole command that opens all the windows and sunroof while your hand is inside the door, and there is no auto-stop if the window encounters resistance - it will power through.
* After you install the actuator and bolt it in, reconnect your battery and test your key in the keyhole, making sure it locks and unlocks properly.
* Before reattaching the door completely, just plug in the 2 wire cables, plug in your power window console, and make sure the power lock works properly. If your lock moves properly and the key works properly, you can safely reassemble everything.
Also note that FC-280PT-20150 has a shaft that exits the OPPOSITE END as the FC-280PC-22125 motor. You do not want the D-shaft on the same side as the plastic terminal cap.
My driver side motor failed in October 2014, 129,000kms / 12 years 6 months in-service. So far, the other 3 motors are still good.
Tips:
* Budget 3 hours of time if you have an auto-closer. You can probably finish the job in 2 hours on your first time, but add another hour for glitch resolution.
* To remove the metal rod at the door handle, unclip the plastic retainer (by hand or a small flathead), then insert a long screwdriver into the hole across from that part, then gently pry the rod towards the front of the car. The rod will then pop out.
* Completely remove the 2 window rail bolts, and take a good look at where the window rail is, relative to the actuator. You will need to maneuver the actuator around the rail to get it out, then reverse to reinstall. Swing the rail out past the impact beam to get the needed clearance.
* For those with auto-closers, you don't need to ziptie the assembly. In fact, I didn't even bother reinstalling the 7 Philips screws. The 4 Torx T30 nuts with bolts do a good job of clamping the assembly together. I only opened enough of the casing to get at the motor and tried to maintain the original adhesive.
* After switching out the motor, move the plastic white part near the motor to ensure the lock moves properly on and off. The white plastic tab should fit into the first notch (not second) in the little metal thing that moves back and forth.
* Leave your passenger side door window rolled all the way down. This is in case you lock yourself out of the car - if the keyhole mechanism isn't installed properly, your wireless entry will not work AND your key will not work.
* Unplug your battery before reinstalling the actuator. The motions of reinstalling the actuator will likely trip the keyhole command that opens all the windows and sunroof while your hand is inside the door, and there is no auto-stop if the window encounters resistance - it will power through.
* After you install the actuator and bolt it in, reconnect your battery and test your key in the keyhole, making sure it locks and unlocks properly.
* Before reattaching the door completely, just plug in the 2 wire cables, plug in your power window console, and make sure the power lock works properly. If your lock moves properly and the key works properly, you can safely reassemble everything.
10-18-14, 07:14 PM
#186
Lead Lap
The tutorial at the beginning of this thread shows the driver's side FRONT door lock. For me it's the driver's side REAR door lock which has quit. Has anyone done a rear door lock? Is it any different than the front? BTW I have an 2003 LS430 base model.
10-19-14, 07:58 PM
#187
I haven't done a front, but I think the rear is easier. You do not have to detach the window regulator if you take your time to wiggle the actuator back into the door - it CAN be done without bending anything.
10-22-14, 03:17 PM
#188
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Just finished replacing the actuator motors in the two front doors of my 02 Ultra. First let me thank all the contributors to this thread, as it gave me the courage to take on this job. Both doors are working great and I am happy I was able to complete this project, but it did not come easy. It was more difficult than I anticipated plus I just turned 73 and don't do things as easily as I used to. Let me share my experience.
I started with the passenger door thinking if I got into trouble, I could always go to the dealer and get the most important one done at a cost. It took me about 4.5 hours to completed the job as I labeled each screw and bolt. When I tested it out it didn't work. Thinking back I remembered a plastic part on the actuator that connected to the cable to the door lock. This lever had two possible positions to be in, and I guessed wrong. I went back in and changed the hole placement, another 1.5 hours. This time I was smart enough to work the cable back and forth, simulating locking and unlocking the door. Put all back together and works great. As noted by others, getting the actuator back in the door was the hardest part. Pay special attention to the position of the window rail and hook in relation to the actuator, when taking it out in the first place. After a couple of days I went after the drivers door, full of confidence. This time it took me a little over two hours to replace the motor. I felt everything was done correctly, but when I reconnected the battery nothing worked. The doors were all locked and I could not open them either electronically or with the key. I know I should have left a window down but didn't think at the time. I was devastated to say the least. After a few times of flipping the door handle with the key in the lock, something "clicked" into place. Amazingly enough, everything started working. I'm assuming the key lock mechanism was not properly aligned and with a little door action it fell into place. Maybe someone out there can enlighten me. All in all, I am very happy to have completed this project and have working doors at a minimal cost. I went a couple years doing the manual thing. I do not feel a lot of satisfaction with the driver's door as I feel I just lucked out of an impossible situation.
I started with the passenger door thinking if I got into trouble, I could always go to the dealer and get the most important one done at a cost. It took me about 4.5 hours to completed the job as I labeled each screw and bolt. When I tested it out it didn't work. Thinking back I remembered a plastic part on the actuator that connected to the cable to the door lock. This lever had two possible positions to be in, and I guessed wrong. I went back in and changed the hole placement, another 1.5 hours. This time I was smart enough to work the cable back and forth, simulating locking and unlocking the door. Put all back together and works great. As noted by others, getting the actuator back in the door was the hardest part. Pay special attention to the position of the window rail and hook in relation to the actuator, when taking it out in the first place. After a couple of days I went after the drivers door, full of confidence. This time it took me a little over two hours to replace the motor. I felt everything was done correctly, but when I reconnected the battery nothing worked. The doors were all locked and I could not open them either electronically or with the key. I know I should have left a window down but didn't think at the time. I was devastated to say the least. After a few times of flipping the door handle with the key in the lock, something "clicked" into place. Amazingly enough, everything started working. I'm assuming the key lock mechanism was not properly aligned and with a little door action it fell into place. Maybe someone out there can enlighten me. All in all, I am very happy to have completed this project and have working doors at a minimal cost. I went a couple years doing the manual thing. I do not feel a lot of satisfaction with the driver's door as I feel I just lucked out of an impossible situation.
10-22-14, 05:02 PM
#189
Lexus Test Driver
Way to go Monrovia!!!!!! Yep its a process....but in the end you saved a ton of money and oddly enough will be full of pride every time the doors lock and un lock. Of course with mine, the replacement motor was much stronger then the original and I must admit it is so loud that it actually startles my passengers.....Im just happy it works and that I can set my alarm. I loved your description and your honesty.......Congrats
11-01-14, 02:54 PM
#190
Driver School Candidate
I purchased the part a couple of weeks ago and was dreeding the task of putting this on but I followed the steps outlined on the very first post and everything went as outlined.
The only thing I would add is on the window rail section. Remove the screws that hold this in place then slide the window rail slightly down. The metel rail will slide down the rubber window protector. Once you have slid the metal rail down slightly, move the rail upwards and out of the way. There's a hole next to the T30 screw, I suggest you stick a slim screw driver through there to hold the rail in place and out of the way. This will allow you to remove and put back the actuator assembly.
"There are 2 bolts which hold the window rail
and 5 screws (Torx 30) which hold the actuator
in place. The window rail needs to be loose
to slide the actuator out. There is a rod that
connects the actuator to the door handle. It
has a clip which folds over the rod. This will
have to be removed. I could not get a good
photo since it is deep in the door. The key
connects to a spade fitting that fits into a cup in
the actuator".
Thank you for posting this.
The only thing I would add is on the window rail section. Remove the screws that hold this in place then slide the window rail slightly down. The metel rail will slide down the rubber window protector. Once you have slid the metal rail down slightly, move the rail upwards and out of the way. There's a hole next to the T30 screw, I suggest you stick a slim screw driver through there to hold the rail in place and out of the way. This will allow you to remove and put back the actuator assembly.
"There are 2 bolts which hold the window rail
and 5 screws (Torx 30) which hold the actuator
in place. The window rail needs to be loose
to slide the actuator out. There is a rod that
connects the actuator to the door handle. It
has a clip which folds over the rod. This will
have to be removed. I could not get a good
photo since it is deep in the door. The key
connects to a spade fitting that fits into a cup in
the actuator".
Thank you for posting this.
11-17-14, 07:25 PM
#191
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Tutorial is missing
I have a 2004 LS 430 and the right front door lock actuator has failed. I found this thread, but the link to the tutorial everyone references is no longer working. Apparently that page was taken down or that server is no longer there. Where can I find this tutorial? The thread postings seem complex enough it seems instructions are a good idea, especially since I've never taken my door pabnel off before. Can anyone point me to where I can find this tutorial? Thanks!
12-13-14, 05:36 PM
#192
Lexus Test Driver
Update update update
Had to post an update.....the more info you have in your brain the better. Well a few months a go I replaced my pass side door actuator motor.....cheapo off of ebay with D shaft. Worked fine until it got cold in my region then started to do the grinding noise that I have read about others having. Well....first off....I really didnt like how loud my replacement motor was....it literally startled my passengers.......so before I went back in to repair my grinding actuator......I followed Randy Bs advice.....very very wise.............long story short the little motors arent burnt out...the plastic cap with contacts are worn......so take the old motor and remove the plastic top cap.........take new motor remove top plastic cap...........put top plastic cap from new motor onto old motor......BOOM! You have an OEM motor again....quiet and working properly.....then install. I must admit....I hooked up 2 D batteries with test wires on each end and touched to motor contacts to be sure it would spin before i installed..........ok so thats one point I wanted to make.......
point number 2.......
I thought for sure my actuator in my 2004 was held together with screws...I even mentioned it in my posts......however.......this time I looked a little further into the actuator and noted,,,,the little screws do NOT go all the way through the plastic piece to hold the housing together.......crap!!!! So my guess is that is why I ended up w the grinding sound...just not clamped together firm enough.....I joined the zip tie club......aint pretty but it works...cant glue ..too much goop in there to ever get clean enough for glue to take.
point number 3
That dang actuator kicked my butt trying to reinstall......and note....this was my second time doing the repair....I was a machine getting the thing out in record time like a pit crew....even took pics of window rail etc during removal.............I cant stress enough to really freakin study where the window rail lays on the actuator during reinstall........I knew exactly where it was supposed to go and still couldnt get it back into proper position............In addition I did not have a sharp night in the garage...I made several mistakes and had to remove actuator a few times after it was in ........in the end this is how I got the actuator to go back in.....maybe some others can note how they were successful ........pull bottom of window rail all the way to the left.....with window rail all the way left and swung as high as u can get it start inserting the actuator,,,,,,you have to hop the window rail over the inside edge of the actuator so it can end up in the inner groove of the plastic actuator.........picture the actuator in place then the window rail following it.......and of course you have to rotate the actuator while u are trying to get it into position. Once I figured out that the maneuvering of the window rail took place at the very bottom of the door vs trying to insert actuator then after the fact work it around the rail.........I was able to repeat the process over and over.
I assume there is another sweet spot to slide the actuator around the window rail.......but I sure couldnt figure it out.........I will post a pic of the motor cap replacement.........
good luck all....
point number 2.......
I thought for sure my actuator in my 2004 was held together with screws...I even mentioned it in my posts......however.......this time I looked a little further into the actuator and noted,,,,the little screws do NOT go all the way through the plastic piece to hold the housing together.......crap!!!! So my guess is that is why I ended up w the grinding sound...just not clamped together firm enough.....I joined the zip tie club......aint pretty but it works...cant glue ..too much goop in there to ever get clean enough for glue to take.
point number 3
That dang actuator kicked my butt trying to reinstall......and note....this was my second time doing the repair....I was a machine getting the thing out in record time like a pit crew....even took pics of window rail etc during removal.............I cant stress enough to really freakin study where the window rail lays on the actuator during reinstall........I knew exactly where it was supposed to go and still couldnt get it back into proper position............In addition I did not have a sharp night in the garage...I made several mistakes and had to remove actuator a few times after it was in
........in the end this is how I got the actuator to go back in.....maybe some others can note how they were successful ........pull bottom of window rail all the way to the left.....with window rail all the way left and swung as high as u can get it start inserting the actuator,,,,,,you have to hop the window rail over the inside edge of the actuator so it can end up in the inner groove of the plastic actuator.........picture the actuator in place then the window rail following it.......and of course you have to rotate the actuator while u are trying to get it into position. Once I figured out that the maneuvering of the window rail took place at the very bottom of the door vs trying to insert actuator then after the fact work it around the rail.........I was able to repeat the process over and over.I assume there is another sweet spot to slide the actuator around the window rail.......but I sure couldnt figure it out.........I will post a pic of the motor cap replacement.........
good luck all....
12-16-14, 02:48 PM
#193
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I guess we all experience different problems when replacing actuator motors. As I stated in my write up, I have a Ultra with E-Z close doors. I believe the noise and/or grinding, that some experience, is because the worm gear is not properly aligned with the sprocket and held tightly in place. With my easy doors, the 4 small screws and larger torx screws, hold the covers firmly in place, and therefore the gears also. Do not leave any of these screws out. I also used my little finger to re-load the worm gear with any of the spare grease. I purchased my d-shafted motors from e-bay, and have no unusual noise or grinding. Two front doors work perfectly, so far. I would not try to hurry and be meticulous.
02-11-15, 08:13 PM
#195
Question for those who replaced these actuators, I just went out and my passengers exited the vehicle and we grabbed dinner, came back, opened the doors and the tried to close it and nothing. The door just bounces, no latching no nothing. I just want to confirm it's an actuator issue and nothing else before I start the replacement process. I literally had to tie the armrest together to drive home.