Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Mine acted the same exact way. It was not working for about a week. Started working again for amazingly 5 months but would sometimes struggle to fully unlock or lock at times and then it finally totally quit.

Feliciano

Thought as much, thanks.

groomerz

a year ago replace pass motor so i bought 2 . Today I replaced the driver motor with the spare. I m going to order another pair of motors. i think the hardest part of this is filing the motor shaft. Thx again for the info.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Why are you ordering the wrong motor? Just order the d or flat shaft motor.

groomerz

I like doing things the hard way ACTUALLY a year back I could only get the round motors. BTW the amazon link you sent for the flat motors say CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE. I ordered the flat motors for a next time on ebay. thx again for your help

CC4LS430

Hi there, I have a 2003 LS430. the driver side electronic locker failed a couple of years ago and had dealer fixed it for few hundred $$. Now the passenger side have the same problem. How do you know what is the part you need to buy?

Also, when I turn on the AC, these is a bad smell for about a minute or so. Dealer changing the filter is only helping for a couple of months. Anyone have the same issue?

Any info is greatly appreciated.
CC

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

What you are experiencing is mold or mildew buildup in the evaporator. Two solutions. You can purchase the Toyota evaporator cleaner online for about $25 or you can grab a bottle of 70% rubbing alcohol and a spray bottle for about $10

The alcohol method is easy, cheap, and effective. Just turn the fan on high with the ac system off. Set the mode to be suck outside air not recirculate. Open the hood and you will feel the air suction coming from the plastic in between the wipers. Spray about 1/2 to 3/4 of bottle of 70% alcohol down the vent and it will clean the evaporator. Let the car run for 10 min while doing this. You may get a strong alcohol smell for a little while but just leave the doors open and it will evaporate quickly.

As a side note, just make sure that your drain tubes are not clogged. With normal use of the AC, water should drip from both the driver and passenger sides. The alcohol method works great. I have used it on multiple cars.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

I just looked. Says in stock and ships 2-3 days. Anyway, glad you got the right part. Such a great little fix.

jpv7774

Hello all......I am new to this forum...Just bought a used LS430.....regular things not functioning...speakers....door actuators....center console ajar.......read all the posts....ordered D shaft motors.....very carefully disassembled....labeled everything. My car has smart key.......I did disconnect battery........my concern is that my actuator casing did NOT have the white cup that the key apparently fits into as stated by the OP.....There is a empty space where this white cup could go......I could see it anywhere in the door cavity....I moved forward with the repair thinking maybe cars with smart key dont have the white cup.........got it all back together and I am bummed to say it does not work....this is my passenger side door. The lock un lock button does work for the other doors......and now my key fob does not work....I assume because I disconnected the battery. My 2 questions are......should my 2004 Ls430 w smart key have the white cup that receives a key as the original OP mentioned? How do I get key fobs working again after disconnecting battery? Will disassemble door again tomorrow.
Thanks

jpv7774

Ok here it goes......Thanks to all....esp orig poster......the additional tips by others were great to. Time for me to pay it forward. Sorry in advance if this gets wordy.

What I did.....I read EVERY post in this thread....and printed out the posts that had additional tips so when I got to those areas I could ref the tip. I decided to go slow and label every screw and bolt and to take notes on the disassembly. In addition I used blue painters tape and a sharpy to bring attention to certain areas where screws went....or extra tips......for example when I pulled the actuator torx bolts out of the door....I put a small piece of blue tape on the door w arrow pointing to bolt hole....my note said actuator bolt ( 2 ) torx.......when I reassembled it was a breeze.....I was positive where everything went.

the procedure....basically I am adding on to the OP's tips.....so look at his pics to get door off

Important....I used trim removal tools found at Harbor freight for $5.00 ..they are made from plastic and wont scratch your car like a screwdriver.....the kit has 4 diff pieces and they all came in handy

remove door followiing OPs pics.......everything pops off easily. When door panel is ready to be removed set recycle bin under door so u can rest door panel on bin as u disconnect all power connectors without having to hold door panel at same time.

To remove electrical connectors...most of them have small tabs to depress w small screwdriver then u pull out...this is not always as easy as it sounds

Once door panel is removed......remember...taking notes....marking every screw.........time to go get that damn actuator!

My car has Smart Key feature.....this is important to note....all LS430 are slightly different!!!!!!!!!!!

remove module that is mounted over the plastic and disconnect its power cable...the module has big numbers on it .......i called it the 123 module.

Remove plastic exposing door cavity

Remove and label....2 door actuator torx.........3 door latch torx.....remove both window rail bolts dont worry the window rail will stay in place

One technical area that is actually easy once u understand it.....U must snap off white clip that holds upper arm of actuator into door handle socket!!!!!!!!! Use flashlight....look way up top...it pulls out towards you be careful not to be too aggressive with this clip.....it will remain up on socket it wont fall no worries......simply pull silver arm out of socket...and arm is free. At this point do as another tipster mentioned......remove actuator by pulling down and rotating guiding the cables as u go...try to pay attention on how it comes out.

Note.....for me the most difficult part of this procedure was sliding this apparatus back into the door....for me I had to pull the window rail far to the left....getting the actuator UNDER it....then rotate it up and in..........

Once its out and in your hands...take pics with your cell phone of how it looks during dis-assembly so their is no guessing when putting back together.....this saved me......... the instructions werent real clear on how to get to the little portion w the motor in it......just unscrew the 6 screws and pivot cable off of green connector.......

NOTE my 2004 had screws no need for zip ties.....

Carefully pry apart...I used a paint scraper.......Once in pay attention......u will see the motor...worm gear...brass contacts.....and sprocket. I bought the D shafted motor so I just pulled motor out...removed worm gear...put on my new motor and snapped in place. I cleaned the brass contacts too.

NOTE...here is where mine was diff from others....u want to check to see if gear is moving freely back and forth ....mine was not....so after re installing and putting back together mine did NOT work.....when I reopened I fiddled with the sprocket and lever and noticed the sprocket had jumped over its stop.....i lifted sprocket turned til back over in proper position then put back down.....now the lever swung freely back and forth........that was the ticket for me.

Reassemble and reinstall.....good luck putting actuator mechanism back in the door....for me it was positioning the window rail around the actuator......as other tipster mentioned....a small hook holds actuator in place once its in position.......

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE!!!!!!!!! MY 2004 W SMART KEY DID NOT HAVE WHITE CUP FOR KEY ON ACTUATOR...IT WAS JUST A BLANK SPOT......

when putting back together...connect all electrical connectors but dont put door panel on til u test to see if the lock works......for most of us we all had to go back in more then once......also learn from another tipster.......use screwdriver trick in lock mech to be sure it will release before u shut the door...............

Mine is louder then the orig but that doesnt bother me......at least the door locks and the alarm sets.........

Good luck...feel free to ask me questions I will be happy to help. Once u have done it once....its laughable how easy it is to go back in and do it again.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

It's a different part number on the UL as they have auto close. Slightly different procedure. I bet you did not read through the thread before you jumped on right?

jpv7774

I read every post in this thread before starting my project ....I was just making the point for those who follow ........use the pics and instructions as guide and that yours may differ. When I got to the point where I had the actuator removed I was very concerned that I had no white cup that was mentioned in the tutorial.....I thought mine was broken or had a missing part. Especially after it didnt work when I put it all back together. I knew I had smart key.....so that gave me hope everything was ok..................I couldnt have done the repair without this thread........I say ...thanks again!!!!

Arcturus

Do you need a special tool to pull the gear off the old motor shaft?

Did you guys glue the gear on the motor shaft or just leave it free?

About to fix my driver's side door lock motor myself.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

No tool or glue needed. Just make sure you put the case back together correctly and securely.

Arcturus

Perfect! Good to know. Cheers!