69charger

I need to file my actuator shaft to a "D" shape, how did you keep the shaft from spinning freely while filing.

Becker135

I did it with a pair of needle nose pliers......

SML1998

I just took a stab at this... completed the project in just over 2 hours. But I guess I can't say "complete" unless it fixed my problem.

My front, driver's side door still doesn't lock/unlock with the remote. In fact, none of the doors will lock unless I first lock the driver's door manually; then the other three doors will lock with the remote. Same is true when unlocking. I was REALLY hoping that replacing the motor inside the actuator was going to be the fix... perhaps I did something wrong? Or is there something else I should look at?

Now that I've removed and installed the actuator once, I'm sure I can do it again in less than an hour.

SML1998

Although my door lock problem was not resolved by replacing the actuator motor, I would like to share with the group my source for the motors, the part number and how easy it was to file the shaft. I read a lot of comments about swapping motor parts to preserve the original "D" shaft... grinding the shaft on the motor was super easy. Of course, you must own or have access to a grinder. If you don't, I recommend buying one. Think of the money you're saving from tackling this project yourself and apply some of that saved money towards a grinder or a dremel. These tools will pay for themselves many times over!

Here's the ebay auction and part number:
4 pk MABUCHI CAR DOOR LOCK MOTORS - DIY ACTUATOR REPAIR Toyota Lexus Honda Ford
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pk-MABUCHI...34ae58&vxp=mtr

Manufacturer Part Number: FC-280PC-22125
Interchange Part Number: FC-280PT-22125
Other Part Number: KF243G-101

SIZE SPECIFICATIONS:
Shaft: ROUND - 2mm diameter x 9.85mm length
Canister: 24.2mm Diameter (18.3mm on flat sides) x 30.5mm long
Overall Length: 45.0mm (Tip to Tail)

mikethevik

Thanks for the info...I might give it a try!

SML1998

After giving it the 'ol college try to repair my lock by replacing the cheap little motor (didn't work for me)... I ultimately purchased a NEW actuator from an online parts dealer. Cost ~$220 or something like that. Total installation took ~45 minutes since I had already performed the ritual once before. Problem solved. I think the original contributor to this thread did the same thing. All door locks are now functioning and I'm happy. Just wished I could have solved the problem with a $4 motor, instead. Good luck to anyone attempting this repair and THANK YOU to everyone who has contributed to this thread.

SQuester

Did you dig into the old door lock actuator assembly to see what the fault was if the motor itself wasn't the culprit?

ccm241

Do you have a link to where you purchased part?

DesertLS4

Thanks for the sticky! I have the auto door closers so it was a little different but who can complain about a 5 dollar fix? My mechanism is held back together with screws so I didn't reseal.

I've had to do this on my GS and daughters Celica too.

Still love Lexus.

Mike in AZ

BMW7_LS430

I have auto door closers and need to fix driver side door. What are the differences?

DesertLS4

It's a pain in the nads to get back in. The assembly is 3x the size of the ones in the pictures. Note how the window track comes out of the way(towards the door hinge) so when you put it back in you can do the same.

Mike in AZ

jenkins000

So I went ahead and bought the recommended motor off of ebay. After drilling out the older plastic gear so that the 'round shaft' would fit, I epoxied it together and made sure it spun. Then I reassembled everything as best as I could remember and made sure the wireless fob could activate the lock. It did, no problems there. But then after closing the door, I am unable to open it again (from the inside or outside). I get no resistance from the door handle.
I was able to remove the inside panel partially with the door closed and I can reach in and grab the gold rod. But even after moving it up and down, no luck. Also, pulling the lock/latch lines that connect to the interior handle/lock, does nothing.

Any advice for getting the door open? I think I can rework it once I get it open.
Thanks

Bon

Ugh! Maybe someone with a slim jim can get the latch to release. Maybe not. The following is how I got into trouble and got out of it like you. The slim jim wouldn't work for me and I couldn't get my LX470 rear interior door panel off with the door closed.

I haven't (yet) performed the repair on my LS but I did my LX this past Winter. I hate to admit it but I put the latch mechanism back together wrong and shut the door as you did. In the case of the LX there was a little nylon piece that was temporarily removed and I put it back on the wrong way. Same problem: The latch wouldn't release either from inside or from the outside of the car. Big problem! I don't know why I didn't test the latch before shutting the door - brain fart - I guess. Next time be sure to test the latch using a screwdriver tip to close the latch and make sure that the inside and outside handles can release it (I guess that you know that by now )

Okay, this is what I did. I removed the interior panel that is just behind the door. This is on the inside of the "B" pillar. This where the seat belt rolls into. From there I used a Dremel tool and an air cutter to cut through the two nuts that hold the latch to the B pillar. It was not fun work but once done I just pushed the remaining screw stubs out of their holes and the door, with it's latch swung free. By inspecting the other side door I was able to see where a short length of coat hanger wire was able to release the latch from the door. I bought two new bolts and Nyloc nuts from the local hardware store and I was back in business for less than $5. Peeking into the B pillar should tell you what you're in for should you try something like this.

jenkins000

Thanks for the input Bon. At first I was kind of confused by your directions... I was looking for those 'two bolts' everywhere. But I believe you're referring to the rear door, right?
Unfortunately, the front door can't be clipped like that.
I think my next order of business is going to be cutting through the striker bolt.
It's a U shape and screws into the body of the car. But if I can get a dremel in there... I might be in luck.

I'll let you all know how it goes.

Bon

Did you remove the B pillar interior trim and look? I'm not saying that I know that you can access them from there but I'm curious if you looked and if there is an opening to see the striker nuts. The nuts are welded to a backing plate so they don't spin. The plate is tack welded to the sheet metal of the B pillar. I don't see how you can access the striker with the door closed because the door and B pillar block you.

I know my previous description was confusing. I was attempting to blend what I did to my BACK door on my LX and how you might approach your front door striker bolts/nuts through your B pillar.