Thanks to the OP for the tutorial and all those who have done it before me for the bits of advise. Add my name to the list of successful DIY repair for the drivers door. The motor I got from Ebay had a round shaft (pic 1 bottom) and I carefully and slowly made the "D" slot with a bench grinder (pic 2) After this picture I squared off the tapered base so the screw gear would fit properly. Comparo of rear or old burnt motor to new (pic 3). (Pic 4) New motor installed in housing. Start to finish in under two hours. Let me add that there is a lot of grease involved from the factory so keep some paper towels or rags handy.
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2005 LS 430
Last edited by chunkyda; 12-10-11 at 05:10 PM..
Reason: added pictures
First of all, THANK YOU for the work you have done on this issue. Although it took me longer than 90-minutes to get the job done, I got it done and it works great!
I wanted to add a few comments that may help others with this project. First of all, I suggest that one disconnect the battery before taking the door assembly apart. That will help one to avoid having the window roll down while in the middle of removing or re-installing the door latch assembly. (I speak from experience!)
Secondly, when removing and re-installing the latch assembly, first remove the door key assembly by removing a round plastic cover on an access port (hole) directly in line with the key assembly on the door jam. One can simply remove the key assembly by unscrewing the No. 30 Torx screw that holds it in place. The key assembly and the 'spade' come out as one piece. Then, it is a simple matter to line the spade up with the slot (which is essentially supposed to be aligned parallel with the ground) after the whole latch assembly is back in place inside the door.
And last of all, My LS 430 is a 2004 model. The housing which holds the Mabuchi motor is part of a larger latch assembly, and is screwed together. One can take the screws out and gently pry the housing apart at the end opposite where all of the electrical wiring is located to access and replace the small motor. Once it is replaced, you simply screw it back together and re-assemble it to the rest of the latch assembly.
NOW, I am going to tackle the rear passenger door which door lock actuator quit working shortly after my driver-side door failed. I have removed the door panel and it is much easier to access than the front driver's door. Wish me luck!! AND AGAIN........THANKS!!!!!
Thanks for this Post. I spent about $6 bucks on an ebay motor, $26 for a new door lock cable, $6 for a door lock clip and several hours, but was able to fix my door lock actuator myself. Thanks for the tutorial. BTW Dealer wanted $524 for the repair.
I am new to this forum and the discussion about the LS430 door actuator is exactly what my problem. 2002 LS430 - two front doors cannot be locked or unlocked using the remote key nor can it be done using lock/unlock button.
I have ordered the Mabuchi motor from Surplus-Deal.com. Should be here next week. Thanks for the info that you guys put together in this forum. I am hoping to save $2000 also considering I have two doors to fix.
Just want to double check with you guys if there are any "new lessons" learned that I can use before I dive into fixing it myself next weekend.
Thanks to everyong here on this web page. I really appreciate saving $$$$$$$$$$$$ . Total cost was $18.00, labor owas $0.00!
I ordered my motors on ebay like you all suggested. They arrived, and me and my bud mike went to work.
all 4 doors, in 6.5 hours, not to shabby! It might have been less but the 3rd door (rear passenger side) was tempermental. That and the battery went dead, and we didn't figure that problem out for about an hour or so.
All & all, it went well....
I am by no means a mechanic, and if I can do it, so can you! The zip ties were a great idea, I suppose crazy glue would work too....
Same here, 4 doors, 3 hours. I started at the rear driver door, then rear passenger, front driver, front passenger. Seems odd that they were all acting up at once, but $17, 3 hours and no blood or cussing--which is amazing for me.
On the first one, I pulled the screw out of the door striker which was a mistake as the spring took off. I got it back together fairly easily though. I think I had the last one done in 25 mins. with 8 mins of filing the shaft. I used a small hobby vise on the disassembled motor. I was just going to use the old shaft and winding but too it did not fit quite right, the shaft had a large thing where the brushes connect. I also had trouble with the zip ties as they interfered with the plastic shrouding, so I used glue.
Overall a very satisfying project. Thanks OP. I was thinking about dumping the car as I am now at 150K, but I just can't justify it as it is still in near perfect condition.
hey everyone my names Priyang, and im new to this forum. so im helping my dad out on repairing the back right door and i cant figure out how to get the thing out of the door. i cant find any pictures for the rear door on the forum. so if anyone could help me out that would be great. i have a 04 with the easy close.
My electic door lock quit working. Since there wasn't a good tutorial on do-it-yourself replacement of the motor I wrote one up. The cost to fix this problem is about $5. The dealer probably charges >$700 for the service. The lock actuator uses a $5 dollar Mabuchi motor (you can find the part number elsewhere.) On my 2001 LS430 the motor requires a "D" shaped shaft to fit the gear. A round shaft will not work unless you want to drill your gear and epoxy it onto the new motor. No special tools are required.
All these tips are useful. I just finished the Drivers door and ran into every issue, so after taking it apart and back together again 3 times I can add just one or two things. The Lock assembly removal tip is key (no pun intended). Saves the accidental code error that rolls down the windows, sun roof etc. Also, you have to realize the window rail presses against the actuator and holds it against the door edge, so therefore you have to pull the rail out a few inches and slide the actuator under and around it. This is important for both removal and re-assembly.
And I used a dremel tool to grind the round shaft into a D shape, it was fairly easy. I'm sure the next door can be done it the estimated 1 1/2 hours, but this first one took 5-6 because of all of the errors.
Awesome thread. Thanks to everyone who have posted all this valuable information. My problem is the driver's side door won't lock or unlock with the remote or the button in the armrest. I have to manually push the lock inside or use the key to perform either. The rest of the doors operate normally with the remote or the button in the armrest. One symptom I have in addition to what's already been mentioned in this thread is the driver's side door "clicks" about a second after the other doors do when I put the car in gear or push the button in the armrest, but again, the driver's door lock does not move. Is the motor my problem as well or is it something else in the actuator assembly? The fact that the driver's side door also clicks makes me wonder if it's something other than the motor. Also, in looking at a bunch of door parts diagrams and trying to ascertain that I get the right part in case I have to get the assembly, am I correct in saying that the motor and the latch come together (almost looks like a single part in the diagrams I've seen) for doors that don't have easy-close and the motor is separate from the latch for the doors that have easy-close? Looks like the latch with cables for doors without easy-close is a little over $200 while the latch, cables & motor for easy-close doors is over $700. The motor alone for easy-close doors is over $500.
Thanks in advance.