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LS 430 Door Lock Actuator Tutorial

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Old 03-07-11, 12:27 PM   #16
toantran99
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Originally Posted by monrovea View Post
Please tell me more. I might be interested in going smart key.

2002 LS430 UL
My car already had smart key on it. I don't think you can convert it to Smart Key if you don't have it.
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Old 06-15-11, 07:44 PM   #17
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I need help!!

I did the job as noted for my '01 LS430 driver door. But now when I use the remote, the key, and the lock/unlock switch on the door panel it does the opposite funtion. When I try to unlock, all other doors unlock but the drivers door locks. When I lock, all other doors lock but the drivers door unlocks. My green and white cables are in the right positions. Help please!

The was much, much more difficult that I thought it would be for this first timer. It all it took me about 5 hours, and obviously something went wrong.

The Mabuchi part I ordered from ebay, as noted in this and other threads, is close but requires a lot of modification. I removed the plastic cover from the new one and tried to switch it to the old part so I could have the correct D type shaft. But since the original shaft is longer you need to carefully remove the small washer behind the brushes and widen the hole in the washer. I chose to use my drill and delicately make a larger hole.

The cap itself is a little larger so you have to shave off a little to have it fit in the housing of the original part.

When re-assembling you really need to make sure you chose the right bolts to secure first otherwise you will not be able to get the other bolts on first. I had to figure it out by trial and error several times until I got it.

After several hours in this hot Arizona heat, some cuts on the hands, I got it all back together but its backwards. Can anyone tell me where I need to look to fix this?
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Old 06-17-11, 07:10 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ddm17 View Post
I need help!!

I did the job as noted for my '01 LS430 driver door. But now when I use the remote, the key, and the lock/unlock switch on the door panel it does the opposite funtion. When I try to unlock, all other doors unlock but the drivers door locks. When I lock, all other doors lock but the drivers door unlocks. My green and white cables are in the right positions. Help please!

The was much, much more difficult that I thought it would be for this first timer. It all it took me about 5 hours, and obviously something went wrong.

The Mabuchi part I ordered from ebay, as noted in this and other threads, is close but requires a lot of modification. I removed the plastic cover from the new one and tried to switch it to the old part so I could have the correct D type shaft. But since the original shaft is longer you need to carefully remove the small washer behind the brushes and widen the hole in the washer. I chose to use my drill and delicately make a larger hole.

The cap itself is a little larger so you have to shave off a little to have it fit in the housing of the original part.

When re-assembling you really need to make sure you chose the right bolts to secure first otherwise you will not be able to get the other bolts on first. I had to figure it out by trial and error several times until I got it.

After several hours in this hot Arizona heat, some cuts on the hands, I got it all back together but its backwards. Can anyone tell me where I need to look to fix this?
Based on what you have typed, you may have crossed the magnets on the armature in the end cap. This results in the actuator working in the opposite direction.

Solution would be to reverse the wires.

Randy B
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Old 06-18-11, 10:39 AM   #19
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Based on what you have typed, you may have crossed the magnets on the armature in the end cap. This results in the actuator working in the opposite direction.

Solution would be to reverse the wires.

Randy B
Thanks Randy,
So let me make sure I understand this before I get at this again. I probably mistakenly put the cap on backwards? I'm not sure what wires I would need to reverse so can this be resovled by opening it all up again and turn that cap around? Or is it easier to reverse some wires?

Please let me know what wires you are speaking of and if it's something I can do easliy...since I'm such a novice at this.

I appreciate your help!
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Old 06-18-11, 11:11 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by ddm17 View Post
Thanks Randy,
So let me make sure I understand this before I get at this again. I probably mistakenly put the cap on backwards? I'm not sure what wires I would need to reverse so can this be resovled by opening it all up again and turn that cap around? Or is it easier to reverse some wires?

Please let me know what wires you are speaking of and if it's something I can do easliy...since I'm such a novice at this.

I appreciate your help!
The wires that are attached for the motor are in the harness. If you cannot trace them, you will need to take the actuator assembly apart again and rotate the motor assembly body from the cap 180 degrees. This will then put things in sync. What is happening is the wrong side of the motor armature is getting power when the switch sends the signal. You need to reverse that by 180 degrees in order to get the signal on the right side of the armature inside the motor. It has to do with how you took the motor apart and reassembled.

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Old 06-18-11, 04:43 PM   #21
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That was it Randy!
During the process I unfortunately broke the yellow clip that holds the bar from the actuator to the door handle, and I broke, somehow, a piece of the actuator itself. So I had to make a run to the store for some Superglue.

Because the Mabuchi part was not exactly the right one, I had to seal a gap where the cap meets the housing when I flipped the cap around. Otherwise I was concerned that dirt/grime would get in there. I sealed it with some electrical tape in case I needed to get in there again.

Everything works great now! Now I'm on to try to replace the front cup holder.....
I appreciate your help!!!!

Dan
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Old 06-18-11, 04:45 PM   #22
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This is the forum at it's best.
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Old 06-18-11, 04:59 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ddm17 View Post
That was it Randy!
During the process I unfortunately broke the yellow clip that holds the bar from the actuator to the door handle, and I broke, somehow, a piece of the actuator itself. So I had to make a run to the store for some Superglue.

Because the Mabuchi part was not exactly the right one, I had to seal a gap where the cap meets the housing when I flipped the cap around. Otherwise I was concerned that dirt/grime would get in there. I sealed it with some electrical tape in case I needed to get in there again.

Everything works great now! Now I'm on to try to replace the front cup holder.....
I appreciate your help!!!!

Dan
Thrilled you got it going, and are now a door actuator specialist ().

Randy B
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Old 06-18-11, 05:01 PM   #24
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This is the forum at it's best.
Just glad to help someone out with something I have a clue on. I always try and pay this forward and or spell out what I've done. The OP of the thread was the huge help I needed when mine went. Had I not been able to see it first, I would not have felt near as confident going in.

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Old 06-18-11, 05:24 PM   #25
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Randy and Jay are right. Had it not been for this thread I wouldn't have had any idea how to do this. And with Randy's help I was able to fix something that I didn't know I had wrong.

This forum is invaluable! Randy, next time you are in the Phoenix area the beverage is on me! And Jay, since you're already somehwhere here in AZ you can join in!
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Old 07-06-11, 02:09 PM   #26
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Okay, a few weeks ago I put in the new motors for the lock actuators and they have been working fine. However, now, none of them work during the day...either lock or unlock. They work in the morning and in the evening but during the day they don't work.

The remote is working fine, when pressed the motors respond (you can hear it) but the locks won't fully lock or unlock. You can't even manually lock or unlock when you're sitting inside the car!

Because it's been incredibly hot here in the Phoenix area I'm thinking something within the door lock mechanism is failing because of the heat. But what is it? Any ideas?
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Old 07-07-11, 05:11 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by ddm17 View Post
Okay, a few weeks ago I put in the new motors for the lock actuators and they have been working fine. However, now, none of them work during the day...either lock or unlock. They work in the morning and in the evening but during the day they don't work.

The remote is working fine, when pressed the motors respond (you can hear it) but the locks won't fully lock or unlock. You can't even manually lock or unlock when you're sitting inside the car!

Because it's been incredibly hot here in the Phoenix area I'm thinking something within the door lock mechanism is failing because of the heat. But what is it? Any ideas?
If you did not get the actuator plastic assembly back together tight, the motors will function and spin (you can hear them). They just won't turn anything as the case is spreading as they turn.

Question: The lock buttons inside the car; Do they free float back and forth or are they extremely hard to move? If they free float back and forth, you missed hooking up some linkage. If they are very hard to move, you have the assembly misclocked on the motors (like a timing belt on a cam shaft). You will need to re-open the door, and un-attach the assembly from the linkage. Run the motors one way, and ensure you connect the linkage in the unlock or lock mode depending upon which you way ran them when you clocked them (Hope this makes sense).

Essentially, you run the motors to the unlock position, you need to ensure you install the linkage in the unlock position so when reassembled the door is in the unlock mode. If you run the motor in the lock position, make sure the door is installed in the lock position. Thus clocking the linkage to the motors and switch.

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Old 07-07-11, 03:51 PM   #28
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The lock buttons inside the car are hard to move. So it sounds like I have the assembly misaligned with the lock on the door as you stated.

I want to make sure. Are you speaking of the white clip from the door matching up with the mechanism on the actuator unit? If so, I'm not sure how to tell which way the white clip is supposed to be when locked and unlocked.

But with all of that, wouldn't I have had this problem all along and every time, not just when it's hot?

I like your suggestion that I may not have the plastic assembly tight. When I put it back together I used a regular glue gun as well as one zip tie. Maybe the heat unsealed the glue and the zip tie is loosened from the heat. I will check it and get it tighter....more zip ties??
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Old 07-07-11, 04:34 PM   #29
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I'd guess that the problem is heat related especially given your super warn location - and since the problem coincides with time of day and I don't know of any clocks inside the door. Good luck with it and please keep us posted.
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Old 07-07-11, 04:47 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by ddm17 View Post
The lock buttons inside the car are hard to move. So it sounds like I have the assembly misaligned with the lock on the door as you stated.

I want to make sure. Are you speaking of the white clip from the door matching up with the mechanism on the actuator unit? If so, I'm not sure how to tell which way the white clip is supposed to be when locked and unlocked.

But with all of that, wouldn't I have had this problem all along and every time, not just when it's hot?

I like your suggestion that I may not have the plastic assembly tight. When I put it back together I used a regular glue gun as well as one zip tie. Maybe the heat unsealed the glue and the zip tie is loosened from the heat. I will check it and get it tighter....more zip ties??
Sounds like the glue in the heat. Look at the picture I posted a few back, of the zip ties I used and where on the actuator. I pulled them awfully tight. I did not even use glue. Just the zip ties. I did use metal catch zip ties though, not all plastic.

Hope this works for you.

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Old 07-07-11, 04:47 PM
 
 
 
 
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