Lust4Lexus

Hey guys- are you supposed to wipe off all excess or leave it a little greasy??? I wiped it all off after applying a light film. Am I doing it right?

Lust4Lexus

Just finished doing my car a little while ago. I did EVERY SINGLE rubber seal, and I mean EVERY single seal. This stuff is indispensable. Using 303 is like bringing a knife to a gun fight. When you use the Shin Etsu for the first time, you kinda KNOW you are in for success.

My areas that I hit with the 303 were hard and dry by comparison. The thing is, you don't realize the seals are hard and dry until you dress them with something like this grease. I wiped off all excess and the results were AMAZING! I actually used it in a couple of more spots in my car with perfect results. You know that little spot where your leather seats rubs up against the plastic power seat molding and it squeaks? NO MORE! Put a little dab on a q tip and hit that area. SILENCE. No more creak upon acceleration, deceleration, or going up driveways. The car is a tomb again. ONly things I hear are the quarters in my change holder, things moving in the center console and the occasional plastic pops from the dashboard. I'm totally stoked. Huge improvement in vehicle enjoyment. Thanks guys for the reccomendation!

Also, The car seems quieter overall as well. WINNING!

caddyowner

If only I knew about this stuff when I was younger with 6 young kids and a minivan...

Viper6

Another great use is on all sliding parts/channels such as center arm rest tray, coin box, center stack box, etc. Use Q-tip and apply just where you need it in those tracks... glides like butter after! Give it a try... this tube will last you a long time as a little goes a long way.

The door squeeks are typically only at the top of the door frame... that grease on all other seals won't hurt anything but also may attract some grime... no harm of course

dmc271

Just wanted to say thanks for the info in this thread! The creaking was driving me absolutely crazy! It was so loud, I thought the door was going to fall off.

I thoroughly cleaned all seals and the inside of the door frame. I then applied three coats of einszett Gummi Pflege Stift. Worked like a charm, although I'll have to see how long it lasts. As a backup, I also have Sonus and Shin-Etsu grease on order.

Chippin

Threads like this are what make this forum great. Many thanks

JLS430U

What about using Armor All Original Protectant? I've read somewhere that this stuff works just as good as other silicone based product, except you may have to re-apply every few months or so.

S1w99

Applied Shin-Etsu grease to the whole driver door and window. Window creak is completely gone now. Was driving me crazy before. Now to find the wind noise I'm getting.

semar

I do not have the problem on the LS
but on previous cars I used glyzerine from the pharmacy and treated all rubber parts.
Had no issues with it and in the winter the rubber never freezes against metal

Bocatrip

Bingo! This is the correct fix. Actually, the lower part of the doors touching the body are the real culprits for the creaking. Regardless, you still need to do it regularly or it will come back.

StanVanDam

I don't recommend applying dielectric grease to the door seal. It didn't make noise before, so I tried it on my driver side door to see if it would help reduce wind noise, leaving the other 3 doors untreated. Not sure there was any difference in wind noise, and now the one treated door makes some noise, not much, but more than zero. It took many months or maybe even a year for the noise to manifest.

Perhaps I should try Shin-Etsu instead of dielectric grease, or maybe I should just reapply the dielectric grease, but probably best to buy new door seals if you have any wind noise or squeaking.

StanVanDam

Just this year (spring 2019), all 4 of my windows started creaking. Now I know what you all were talking about. I keep my car garaged almost 24/7 and have relatively low mileage (< 10000 km/yr), so I guess this window channel rubber lasted longer than average. The noise is coming directly from the top window channel and not the door seals. I applied dielectric grease to the black horizontal channel and to the top edges of the windows. The noise remained for the first several days, but several days later, most of the creaking went away. I assume it needed time to "soak in". The remaining creaking is likely because it is slightly difficult to get a thin even layer of dielectric grease on that black channel so I can see that I missed a few spots. I used a paper towel and wiped it on the first time, and the paper towel absorbed and wiped away some of the grease. Very soon I'll do it again, this time will finger-apply with a latex glove on.

To update on my door seal post immediately above this, after the dielectric grease "soaked in" after a few weeks, the increased noise I reported had disappeared. My driver door seal has been quiet since a few weeks after that post. Maybe new door seals aren't needed, although door seals seem easy enough to remove and replace. The brand of dielectric grease shouldn't matter, but in case you're curious, I'm using Permatex, got it at Canadian Tire.

Bocatrip

I've found that the creaking for me primarily comes from the thick top seal running across the top of the windows. It needs to be done periodically as the creaking will eventual reappear. I get 3 or 4 months out of it before a redo. I go back to each seal, wipe it down and clean it, and reapply the Shin-Etsu grease. Good to go!

KevPCon

Same issue as everyone else, and this is how I solved it, as well. It was driving me nuts, and it's dead silent now.

Mobius1

Has anyone tried hitting the window button a millisecond to make it go down a teeny tiny bit? Like enough that wind or rain wouldn't enter but down enough that it stops the squeaking until you can re-grease everything. Not permanent but sometimes I do it when I'm on a long trip and it gets annoying after a few hundred miles.