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LS430 Oxygen O2 Sensor Location and Part Numbers

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Old 07-15-13, 02:05 PM   #31
BradTank
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I just recently did this job, and I agree that getting the harness undone was a real nightmare. You also have to be careful not to break it.

What I did was find a pair of small channellocks-type pliers that could put squeeze pressure in the right place.
Click the image to open in full size.

I then got a tiny flathead screwdriver and also a small metal pick and found an opening in the side to put some pressure to separate the two. I found it almost impossible to get my hand in a good solid position to be able to both squeeze it and separate it. It's definitely good advice to start with the passenger one as it's easier to get to and understand how it comes apart, but I found both to be difficult to separate,

I don't know how in the world someone is able to put enough pressure with using something like a coat hanger that was described in the DIY.

I also would respectfully disagree with the tool used to remove the oxygen sensor, I found the offset one to be incredibly awkward to use because of the angle to get at it. I would use a conventional one where the wire runs down the middle, you just need to be sure to detach the harness first.
Click the image to open in full size.


The last O2 sensor job I did was much easier, what makes this one slightly difficult is the angles to get access are awkward and the harness (at least with mine) was really on there.

I definitely think it's a good idea to get it done if the sensor is the original one. According to the records I had, the job had never been done and it had almost 150k miles. I noticed a slight bump in fuel economy pretty quickly. I bought the Denso O2 sensors from Amazon, the job cost me around $130 in parts and some scuffed hands vs around an $800 job at the dealership.
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Old 07-15-13, 02:53 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradTank View Post
I just recently did this job, and I agree that getting the harness undone was a real nightmare. You also have to be careful not to break it.

What I did was find a pair of small channellocks-type pliers that could put squeeze pressure in the right place.
Click the image to open in full size.

I then got a tiny flathead screwdriver and also a small metal pick and found an opening in the side to put some pressure to separate the two. I found it almost impossible to get my hand in a good solid position to be able to both squeeze it and separate it. It's definitely good advice to start with the passenger one as it's easier to get to and understand how it comes apart, but I found both to be difficult to separate,

I don't know how in the world someone is able to put enough pressure with using something like a coat hanger that was described in the DIY.

I also would respectfully disagree with the tool used to remove the oxygen sensor, I found the offset one to be incredibly awkward to use because of the angle to get at it. I would use a conventional one where the wire runs down the middle, you just need to be sure to detach the harness first.
Click the image to open in full size.


The last O2 sensor job I did was much easier, what makes this one slightly difficult is the angles to get access are awkward and the harness (at least with mine) was really on there.

I definitely think it's a good idea to get it done if the sensor is the original one. According to the records I had, the job had never been done and it had almost 150k miles. I noticed a slight bump in fuel economy pretty quickly. I bought the Denso O2 sensors from Amazon, the job cost me around $130 in parts and some scuffed hands vs around an $800 job at the dealership.
Thanks for these tips. I will give the small channel locks a try this evening. The last time I did an O2 sensor job, it was a breeze compared to this. There isn't enough room to get your hand in the correct location to pry the clip apart. I haven't been able to put anything in the correct position to apply pressure on the clip.

I didn't replace the PS because it has not gone bad. My car does have 154K miles on it but I don't see any reason to replace it just to do it. It's a shame that I have gotten the actual sensor out but can't seem to get the clip out. Will give it a few more tries before taking it to my local mechanic to get some assistance. Thanks again!
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Old 07-16-13, 06:48 AM   #33
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Well somehow I was able to get the job done. Getting that clip undone is a royal pain in the ... I ended up removing one of the bolts from the block that held in one of the heat shields. It allowed me to bend the shield back enough to get my hand back there. I was then able to unclip the clip with one hand. I heard it click so I knew it was loose. I pulled and it came out. I was so relieved. I was about to just give up on getting it out. This is not a difficult DIY but it requires WAY more patience than I possess!! Good luck to all those that try this in the future.
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Old 11-30-13, 04:04 PM   #34
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Changed my 02 sensor today at bank 1, sensor 1 as per print out from Autozone and from the inspection at the dmv. The job was pretty much the same as the OP but my question is will the CEL/VSC lights reset on their own or will i have to get them reset some how? Can disconnecting the battery do the trick or no?
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Old 11-30-13, 04:18 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Slvr surfr View Post
Changed my 02 sensor today at bank 1, sensor 1 as per print out from Autozone and from the inspection at the dmv. The job was pretty much the same as the OP but my question is will the CEL/VSC lights reset on their own or will i have to get them reset some how? Can disconnecting the battery do the trick or no?
You should be able to simply disconnect the battery over night if you don't have access to a scanner that can reset it, but if there's something else wrong beyond the O2 sensor, it could still be tripping the CEL light.
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Old 12-02-13, 04:01 PM   #36
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You should be able to simply disconnect the battery over night if you don't have access to a scanner that can reset it, but if there's something else wrong beyond the O2 sensor, it could still be tripping the CEL light.
Ok, i went to Autozone to have the codes read and now its giving me the same P0031 code as before plus a two readings of code P0134. Maybe somethings wrong with the circuit?
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Old 12-17-13, 09:32 AM   #37
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Default bank 2 sensor 1

I found that reaching the end of the pigtail that connects the passenger side sensor 1 to the pigtail connection on the car IMPOSSIBLE to reach as described in other comments. What I did was to use a long screwdriver and small hammer to knock the pigtail on the car end of the pigtail off its spade clip thus allowing the pigtail to drop down to easy reach. Worked great of me!
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Old 12-24-13, 04:24 PM   #38
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So i got my exhaust checked out by a mechanic and was told there were no leaks where i got the weld job done. Tested the circuit for B1S1 and got an .799 mA reading while running so i guess the circuit is fine. What the hell could keep giving me the P0134 code? Vacuum leak? Bad ECM(hope not)? Overlooked exhaust leak? Very frustrating.
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Old 01-11-14, 07:59 PM   #39
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Exhaust problems continues :egads. So now i have/had a hole in the top of my pass. side muffler. I swear these exhaust issue are really getting on my nerve. Anyways, i did a quick patch job with some patch putty. It did quiet the car down a lot and it runs sorta smoother. Still got a code popping up referring to B1S1 02 sensor. But that's the sensor i replaced already . Really thinking about a total exhaust system replacement soon. Lots of rust issues for some odd reason. I knw it will be expensive but i may have no choice. Any ideas fellas?
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Old 07-12-14, 03:05 PM   #40
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After referencing Taller Mike's compilation I went about removing the sensor in much the same way. He is on the right path, but he needed to go a little bit further to make it simple. On the passenger side remove the transmission tunnel air vent by pulling out the side nearest the seat with a good tug. Then slide it back toward the seat to unseat the front tab. Next remove the lowest kick panel just above your toes if you were sitting normally in the passenger seat. There are four tabs along the front edge that just need to be popped out. Then pull the panel toward the seat to unseat the two back support tabs. Now begin pulling the carpet down from the center console which will take some effort and just continue halfway around the front foot well. This will allow you to roll the carpet back and expose the entire sensor wiring assembly. Now it's an easy job to replace the sensor. Don't try and follow the Lexus manual or you will be taking apart the entire interior. The gasket for my replacement Denso sensor required installation from the interior side. I did this by installing the sensor first then shoving the wire up through the hole in floor. You also have to stuff the grommet up through the hole as well and then seat it into the floor pan from above. It's pretty simple so long as you rolled the carpet back. I used a 7/8 box wrench to break the sensor loose and a 90 degree pick to pop the spring tabs from the interior kick panel. My car is a 2006 with 215,000 miles so they last pretty long.
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