LS430 Brake Pad Replacement w/ Photos
07-05-13, 02:54 AM
#91
Replaced pads front and rear as my brakes did not pulsate, no rotor cutting and no shakes or shimmys now a couple of months later. Both Lexus and Yota insisted on cutting rotors. Thanks for the info glad to still have virgin rotors!
03-23-14, 03:23 PM
#92
I read thru this entire thread and did not see any mention of the fitting kit or the shim kit. It looks like no one is really buying the fitting or shim kit at all unless I missed something. Doing my front pads and rotors and wanted to know whether I need to order these kits from sewell while I am ordering the pads and rotors.
Last edited by UGKkllr; 03-23-14 at 03:27 PM.
03-23-14, 06:40 PM
#93
I just did my front pads(akebono from rockauto) and reused the shims or backing plates or whatever. I don't see why they'd need to be replaced unless they got damaged somehow.
06-03-14, 03:00 AM
#95
Thanks for that write up. I plan on replacing the rear pads on my LS430 this weekend(already bought new pads). I did the rear on my 99LS myself about a month ago and it was easy. From what you have just shown us, it looks like the LS430's brakes will be easier than my LS400......sweet!
07-03-14, 10:16 AM
#96
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Replace brake Pads
I replaced the front and rear pads myself at 65,000 miles, and didn't have the rotors turned. I now have 135,000 miles, and it's time to do it again. Did you have the rotors turned or measured? I haven't had any problems since the last set of pads, but don't know about this time with that many miles.
07-16-14, 04:27 PM
#98
I just came from JM Lexus. They want to replace my front/rear pads and resurface the rotors (since it's pulsating) for $540. The pads have a lifetime warranty (includes labor) which is a bonus since I plan to keep my car for a long time. If I buy pads and new front/rear rotors from Sewell, it's $570 with shipping. The brakes have already been replaced once at 37k miles from the previous owner. It's currently at 60k. Should I invest in new rotors and start replacing the pads myself? Or should I let the dealer do the work knowing that I'll have to buy rotors from them in the future?
07-16-14, 06:49 PM
#99
I just came from JM Lexus. They want to replace my front/rear pads and resurface the rotors (since it's pulsating) for $540. The pads have a lifetime warranty (includes labor) which is a bonus since I plan to keep my car for a long time. If I buy pads and new front/rear rotors from Sewell, it's $570 with shipping. The brakes have already been replaced once at 37k miles from the previous owner. It's currently at 60k. Should I invest in new rotors and start replacing the pads myself? Or should I let the dealer do the work knowing that I'll have to buy rotors from them in the future?
My guess is everytime you go in for brakes they'll make you buy new rotors or charge you an arm and a leg to resurface, so it's likely a gimmick where you'd be paying about the same rate if there was no "lifetime" attached to it. I just don't think you're every going to get out of a dealership with a truly "free" brake job because of that warranty, they will likely find a way to ding you somewhere else.
You could just buy aftermarket, I've had really good luck with Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic pads and Centric premium rotors and install yourself. It's about $150 per side (front or back)
My guess is, you don't need your rear pads and rotors done, it's rare they all go out at the same time. Dealerships are notorious for trying to get customers to replace all 4, when the rears only need to be changed around once every 100k miles. So look over your service history if you can't visually inspect them and see when they were last done.
What they're asking for is considered "fair" for changing pads at a dealership, but it's a very simple job that any independent shop or shade tree owner could bang out in about a half hour. I would learn to do the job yourself and look at the DIY threads for help.
07-28-14, 12:14 AM
#100
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Well a genuine thank you is in order to the OP and all the others who contributed to this thread. I am a very happy CL member today and love how this community adds to my LS430 ownership experience (slow Wiser’s Clap). I had developed significant pulsating in the steering wheel and brake pedal while braking and so I replaced all brake pads and front and rear rotors today using this guide and a few other threads where rotors and brakes are discussed. The pads were shot and rotors warped, cut and pitting/flaking/rusting in places. Turning rotors and hoping for the best or using aftermarket parts did not appeal to me when Sewell sells OEM at the CL member prices. Each to their own obviously, but the result of a total overhaul has thrilled me and the peace of mind is nice. I have seen some discussion with respect to bedding new pads and rotors and was surprised. When you see how easily even a finger print transfers to the new rotor surface, I would expect everyone would want to do a bedding process. I would recommend doing this at night and on a freeway or highway to avoid having to stop prematurely. The video link below is not my video and I provide the link for those looking for a general look at how the calipers and rotors come off.
The brake pad replacement has been explained and photographed to perfection so I thought I would add some addtional comments with respect to a pads and rotors job.
1. The design of this brake system is very user friendly. I was initially questioning if I should attempt this and am very happy that I did. Totally doable. Study this thread and the watch the quick vid above and you will be good to go.
2. It has been asked a few times whether the rotor is supposed to be affixed to the hub assembly somehow. The caliper holds it in place and once the wheel is remounted and tightened, the rotor is firmly in place. It may seem odd to not have it bolted to the wheel hub assembly and can be a bit surprising how it is "loose" once the caliper is removed, but the engineers knew what they were doing and it works. Trust the engineers.
3. Related to point 2, the rotors can become somewhat seized on the hub through years of exposure to moisture. One of mine was rusted to the hub (I believe they were the original rotors on my 2005) and required me to give it a few strikes with a rubber mallet to free it. In the rear make sure your e-brake is disengaged to remove rear rotors.
4. Related to point 3, I cleaned up the hub with some steel wool and penetrating oil. A disk on a drill would have been ideal. There was some rust mixed with the previous copper anti-seize which mostly came off. I can see it being an area where you can unnecessarily waste time if OCD takes over and you want it sparkling but for me it was good enough to ensure it was flat with fresh anti-seize and the rotor would sit flush.
5. Have an extension pipe or breaker bar handy. I feel many will need it for removal of the caliper bolts. They are indeed beefy bolts and mine were not going to move at all without me using a portion of the handle from my floor jack to give me an extra 3 feet of leverage on my socket wrench. I also used penetrating oil on them and let that sink in to try and encourage them to free up. You will not have the luxury of being able to use your weight on the socket wrench in the position you have to access them from. Order caliper bolts with rotors, as they are intended to be single use.
6. When replacing the pin and cotter pin, rotate the pin so the hole that will eventually take the cotter pin is facing you at say 45 degrees. I found that this allowed for easy insertion of the cotter pin and then from there you can rotate the pin however you prefer.
7. The method discussed above of using the old pad and a c-clamp to suppress the pistons works perfectly. It also protects the plastic seals of the pistons from being damaged. I would highly recommend considering this method, as it uses the intended size contact surface to push the pistons back. My c-clamp was 4-6 inches I believe.
8. My sensors were not worn and they were relatively easy to remove and add to the new pads. Remember to put the pin through the little metal assembly which guides the sensor wire, so you do not have to back track and remove the pin again to do this like I did.
9. There is the potential that this could take significantly longer than some of the times quoted above. I took much longer than times I saw specified earlier and addressing the rotors in addition to the pads is not as good of an excuse as I wish it was, as it’s all easy and in the same area.
10. Do not do this on a July afternoon, while hungover and wearing a black t-shirt (additional adult sodas did not really cure the hangover but merely delayed it, who knew?). I did get a smile from a pretty neighbour lady.
11. Ensure you use your jack and jack stands safely. Further, gloves and glasses both kept debris and whatnot from where it should not end up today. Earlier this summer a 9mm shell casing found its way into the side of my prescription glasses (a freak occurrence because the opening is tiny), burning a small spot about a centimetre from my left eye. Protective eyewear is always a good idea.
Thanks again everyone and if anyone comes across this and has a question I might be able to answer about the rotor aspect, please feel free to send me a PM.
Steve
The brake pad replacement has been explained and photographed to perfection so I thought I would add some addtional comments with respect to a pads and rotors job.
1. The design of this brake system is very user friendly. I was initially questioning if I should attempt this and am very happy that I did. Totally doable. Study this thread and the watch the quick vid above and you will be good to go.
2. It has been asked a few times whether the rotor is supposed to be affixed to the hub assembly somehow. The caliper holds it in place and once the wheel is remounted and tightened, the rotor is firmly in place. It may seem odd to not have it bolted to the wheel hub assembly and can be a bit surprising how it is "loose" once the caliper is removed, but the engineers knew what they were doing and it works. Trust the engineers.
3. Related to point 2, the rotors can become somewhat seized on the hub through years of exposure to moisture. One of mine was rusted to the hub (I believe they were the original rotors on my 2005) and required me to give it a few strikes with a rubber mallet to free it. In the rear make sure your e-brake is disengaged to remove rear rotors.
4. Related to point 3, I cleaned up the hub with some steel wool and penetrating oil. A disk on a drill would have been ideal. There was some rust mixed with the previous copper anti-seize which mostly came off. I can see it being an area where you can unnecessarily waste time if OCD takes over and you want it sparkling but for me it was good enough to ensure it was flat with fresh anti-seize and the rotor would sit flush.
5. Have an extension pipe or breaker bar handy. I feel many will need it for removal of the caliper bolts. They are indeed beefy bolts and mine were not going to move at all without me using a portion of the handle from my floor jack to give me an extra 3 feet of leverage on my socket wrench. I also used penetrating oil on them and let that sink in to try and encourage them to free up. You will not have the luxury of being able to use your weight on the socket wrench in the position you have to access them from. Order caliper bolts with rotors, as they are intended to be single use.
6. When replacing the pin and cotter pin, rotate the pin so the hole that will eventually take the cotter pin is facing you at say 45 degrees. I found that this allowed for easy insertion of the cotter pin and then from there you can rotate the pin however you prefer.
7. The method discussed above of using the old pad and a c-clamp to suppress the pistons works perfectly. It also protects the plastic seals of the pistons from being damaged. I would highly recommend considering this method, as it uses the intended size contact surface to push the pistons back. My c-clamp was 4-6 inches I believe.
8. My sensors were not worn and they were relatively easy to remove and add to the new pads. Remember to put the pin through the little metal assembly which guides the sensor wire, so you do not have to back track and remove the pin again to do this like I did.
9. There is the potential that this could take significantly longer than some of the times quoted above. I took much longer than times I saw specified earlier and addressing the rotors in addition to the pads is not as good of an excuse as I wish it was, as it’s all easy and in the same area.
10. Do not do this on a July afternoon, while hungover and wearing a black t-shirt (additional adult sodas did not really cure the hangover but merely delayed it, who knew?). I did get a smile from a pretty neighbour lady.
11. Ensure you use your jack and jack stands safely. Further, gloves and glasses both kept debris and whatnot from where it should not end up today. Earlier this summer a 9mm shell casing found its way into the side of my prescription glasses (a freak occurrence because the opening is tiny), burning a small spot about a centimetre from my left eye. Protective eyewear is always a good idea.
Thanks again everyone and if anyone comes across this and has a question I might be able to answer about the rotor aspect, please feel free to send me a PM.
Steve
Last edited by SteveM; 07-28-14 at 12:39 AM.
07-28-14, 11:13 AM
#101
Thanks for all the great info!! I'll use it to replace the pads in the LS I just purchased. I had never previously done brake work on my cars before but the pads look pretty straight forward!
Do you guys recommend OEM pads or would aftermarket be a better option? I assume Sewell would be a good place for OEM?
Do you guys recommend OEM pads or would aftermarket be a better option? I assume Sewell would be a good place for OEM?
Last edited by e60bmw; 07-28-14 at 11:20 AM.
07-28-14, 02:42 PM
#102
I just came from JM Lexus. They want to replace my front/rear pads and resurface the rotors (since it's pulsating) for $540. The pads have a lifetime warranty (includes labor) which is a bonus since I plan to keep my car for a long time. If I buy pads and new front/rear rotors from Sewell, it's $570 with shipping. The brakes have already been replaced once at 37k miles from the previous owner. It's currently at 60k. Should I invest in new rotors and start replacing the pads myself? Or should I let the dealer do the work knowing that I'll have to buy rotors from them in the future?
2-new Brembo rear rotors---$ 95.87 w/free shipping (eBay)
1 set (4 disc pads)----$49.31 w/free shipping--Akebono Pro Act Ultra Premium ceremic-(Amazon)
4 Lexus rear caliper flange bolts----$ 29.18 w/shipping (Irontoad)
Local auto shop labor for installation----$ 174.67 (tax included)
Total: $ 349.03 plus I don't have to touch a thing.
07-28-14, 02:56 PM
#103
excellent notes Steve!
Well a genuine thank you is in order to the OP and all the others who contributed to this thread. I am a very happy CL member today and love how this community adds to my LS430 ownership experience (slow Wiser’s Clap). I had developed significant pulsating in the steering wheel and brake pedal while braking and so I replaced all brake pads and front and rear rotors today using this guide and a few other threads where rotors and brakes are discussed. The pads were shot and rotors warped, cut and pitting/flaking/rusting in places. Turning rotors and hoping for the best or using aftermarket parts did not appeal to me when Sewell sells OEM at the CL member prices. Each to their own obviously, but the result of a total overhaul has thrilled me and the peace of mind is nice. I have seen some discussion with respect to bedding new pads and rotors and was surprised. When you see how easily even a finger print transfers to the new rotor surface, I would expect everyone would want to do a bedding process. I would recommend doing this at night and on a freeway or highway to avoid having to stop prematurely. The video link below is not my video and I provide the link for those looking for a general look at how the calipers and rotors come off.
How To Change Pads and Discs (Rotors) on the Lexus LS430 ( All Years ) - YouTube
The brake pad replacement has been explained and photographed to perfection so I thought I would add some addtional comments with respect to a pads and rotors job.
1. The design of this brake system is very user friendly. I was initially questioning if I should attempt this and am very happy that I did. Totally doable. Study this thread and the watch the quick vid above and you will be good to go.
2. It has been asked a few times whether the rotor is supposed to be affixed to the hub assembly somehow. The caliper holds it in place and once the wheel is remounted and tightened, the rotor is firmly in place. It may seem odd to not have it bolted to the wheel hub assembly and can be a bit surprising how it is "loose" once the caliper is removed, but the engineers knew what they were doing and it works. Trust the engineers.
3. Related to point 2, the rotors can become somewhat seized on the hub through years of exposure to moisture. One of mine was rusted to the hub (I believe they were the original rotors on my 2005) and required me to give it a few strikes with a rubber mallet to free it. In the rear make sure your e-brake is disengaged to remove rear rotors.
4. Related to point 3, I cleaned up the hub with some steel wool and penetrating oil. A disk on a drill would have been ideal. There was some rust mixed with the previous copper anti-seize which mostly came off. I can see it being an area where you can unnecessarily waste time if OCD takes over and you want it sparkling but for me it was good enough to ensure it was flat with fresh anti-seize and the rotor would sit flush.
5. Have an extension pipe or breaker bar handy. I feel many will need it for removal of the caliper bolts. They are indeed beefy bolts and mine were not going to move at all without me using a portion of the handle from my floor jack to give me an extra 3 feet of leverage on my socket wrench. I also used penetrating oil on them and let that sink in to try and encourage them to free up. You will not have the luxury of being able to use your weight on the socket wrench in the position you have to access them from. Order caliper bolts with rotors, as they are intended to be single use.
6. When replacing the pin and cotter pin, rotate the pin so the hole that will eventually take the cotter pin is facing you at say 45 degrees. I found that this allowed for easy insertion of the cotter pin and then from there you can rotate the pin however you prefer.
7. The method discussed above of using the old pad and a c-clamp to suppress the pistons works perfectly. It also protects the plastic seals of the pistons from being damaged. I would highly recommend considering this method, as it uses the intended size contact surface to push the pistons back. My c-clamp was 4-6 inches I believe.
8. My sensors were not worn and they were relatively easy to remove and add to the new pads. Remember to put the pin through the little metal assembly which guides the sensor wire, so you do not have to back track and remove the pin again to do this like I did.
9. There is the potential that this could take significantly longer than some of the times quoted above. I took much longer than times I saw specified earlier and addressing the rotors in addition to the pads is not as good of an excuse as I wish it was, as it’s all easy and in the same area.
10. Do not do this on a July afternoon, while hungover and wearing a black t-shirt (additional adult sodas did not really cure the hangover but merely delayed it, who knew?). I did get a smile from a pretty neighbour lady.
11. Ensure you use your jack and jack stands safely. Further, gloves and glasses both kept debris and whatnot from where it should not end up today. Earlier this summer a 9mm shell casing found its way into the side of my prescription glasses (a freak occurrence because the opening is tiny), burning a small spot about a centimetre from my left eye. Protective eyewear is always a good idea.
Thanks again everyone and if anyone comes across this and has a question I might be able to answer about the rotor aspect, please feel free to send me a PM.
Steve
How To Change Pads and Discs (Rotors) on the Lexus LS430 ( All Years ) - YouTube
The brake pad replacement has been explained and photographed to perfection so I thought I would add some addtional comments with respect to a pads and rotors job.
1. The design of this brake system is very user friendly. I was initially questioning if I should attempt this and am very happy that I did. Totally doable. Study this thread and the watch the quick vid above and you will be good to go.
2. It has been asked a few times whether the rotor is supposed to be affixed to the hub assembly somehow. The caliper holds it in place and once the wheel is remounted and tightened, the rotor is firmly in place. It may seem odd to not have it bolted to the wheel hub assembly and can be a bit surprising how it is "loose" once the caliper is removed, but the engineers knew what they were doing and it works. Trust the engineers.
3. Related to point 2, the rotors can become somewhat seized on the hub through years of exposure to moisture. One of mine was rusted to the hub (I believe they were the original rotors on my 2005) and required me to give it a few strikes with a rubber mallet to free it. In the rear make sure your e-brake is disengaged to remove rear rotors.
4. Related to point 3, I cleaned up the hub with some steel wool and penetrating oil. A disk on a drill would have been ideal. There was some rust mixed with the previous copper anti-seize which mostly came off. I can see it being an area where you can unnecessarily waste time if OCD takes over and you want it sparkling but for me it was good enough to ensure it was flat with fresh anti-seize and the rotor would sit flush.
5. Have an extension pipe or breaker bar handy. I feel many will need it for removal of the caliper bolts. They are indeed beefy bolts and mine were not going to move at all without me using a portion of the handle from my floor jack to give me an extra 3 feet of leverage on my socket wrench. I also used penetrating oil on them and let that sink in to try and encourage them to free up. You will not have the luxury of being able to use your weight on the socket wrench in the position you have to access them from. Order caliper bolts with rotors, as they are intended to be single use.
6. When replacing the pin and cotter pin, rotate the pin so the hole that will eventually take the cotter pin is facing you at say 45 degrees. I found that this allowed for easy insertion of the cotter pin and then from there you can rotate the pin however you prefer.
7. The method discussed above of using the old pad and a c-clamp to suppress the pistons works perfectly. It also protects the plastic seals of the pistons from being damaged. I would highly recommend considering this method, as it uses the intended size contact surface to push the pistons back. My c-clamp was 4-6 inches I believe.
8. My sensors were not worn and they were relatively easy to remove and add to the new pads. Remember to put the pin through the little metal assembly which guides the sensor wire, so you do not have to back track and remove the pin again to do this like I did.
9. There is the potential that this could take significantly longer than some of the times quoted above. I took much longer than times I saw specified earlier and addressing the rotors in addition to the pads is not as good of an excuse as I wish it was, as it’s all easy and in the same area.
10. Do not do this on a July afternoon, while hungover and wearing a black t-shirt (additional adult sodas did not really cure the hangover but merely delayed it, who knew?). I did get a smile from a pretty neighbour lady.
11. Ensure you use your jack and jack stands safely. Further, gloves and glasses both kept debris and whatnot from where it should not end up today. Earlier this summer a 9mm shell casing found its way into the side of my prescription glasses (a freak occurrence because the opening is tiny), burning a small spot about a centimetre from my left eye. Protective eyewear is always a good idea.
Thanks again everyone and if anyone comes across this and has a question I might be able to answer about the rotor aspect, please feel free to send me a PM.
Steve
07-03-15, 04:49 PM
#104
First, thank you for everyone's help with this DIY. I replaced my front rotors, pads and rear pads today. I haven't "bed" them yet, but I'm curious how much play the brake pedal should have. When the engine is off, it gets stiff after a few pumps. When the engine is on, it presses down more. I didn't bleed the lines. Suggestions? TIA.
07-13-15, 08:30 AM
#105
I replaced the front and rear brake rotors and pads yesterday. Although it could be mentioned somewhere already, I didn't see it and wanted to add that the rear brake rotors can be removed by threading in two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the brake rotor (other posts I saw only mentioned that it was an M8 bolt, but didn't say the thread pitch).
PROCEDURE: Thread in one M8 x 1.25 bolt into one end until it is flush with the hub, then do the same with the other M8 x 1.25 bolt for the bolt hole on the other side. Tighten one bolt a full rotation, then tighten the other bolt a full rotation......keep oscillating between bolts one full rotation until the rotor pops off (both of mine came off with a nice loud bang as it broke the "rust weld")
I went ahead and flushed the brake system while I had everything apart, but now I have a spongy brake and don't really get full braking force until the pedal is pushed ALL the way down to the floor. One thing I noticed while flushing the system (with helper to depress brake pedal) was that I could hear a "buzzing" noise coming from somewhere in the engine bay when the pedal was getting close to the bottom of its travel.
QUESTIONS: Does anyone know what that noise is coming from? It didn't start making that noise until about the 10th brake pedal depression during the flushing process. Also......Are there any other bleeder valves that should be bled aside from the one bleeder at each wheel (brake caliper)?
Thanks in advance CL!
Randy G.
PROCEDURE: Thread in one M8 x 1.25 bolt into one end until it is flush with the hub, then do the same with the other M8 x 1.25 bolt for the bolt hole on the other side. Tighten one bolt a full rotation, then tighten the other bolt a full rotation......keep oscillating between bolts one full rotation until the rotor pops off (both of mine came off with a nice loud bang as it broke the "rust weld")
I went ahead and flushed the brake system while I had everything apart, but now I have a spongy brake and don't really get full braking force until the pedal is pushed ALL the way down to the floor. One thing I noticed while flushing the system (with helper to depress brake pedal) was that I could hear a "buzzing" noise coming from somewhere in the engine bay when the pedal was getting close to the bottom of its travel.
QUESTIONS: Does anyone know what that noise is coming from? It didn't start making that noise until about the 10th brake pedal depression during the flushing process. Also......Are there any other bleeder valves that should be bled aside from the one bleeder at each wheel (brake caliper)?
Thanks in advance CL!
Randy G.