AlexusAnja

1. easiest is to replace the sensor so you have a sensor again, but you can "trick the system" by soldering or tieing the contacts together and then just not install the sensor back. Hang it (twist tied) to a none moving piece on the back.

2. most cars the fronts do wear out faster than the rears, so you could be able to replace just the fronts. You have to check the wear.

3. I've found Irontoad.com to always be competitive and most times better than others.

danxp

yes, i just ordered from them... both fronts and rears for $103 shipped... will be attempting the brakes this weekend...

danxp

with the exception of a lost cotter pin (replaced with a paper clip), the brake pad replacement was a success this weekend... i inspected the rears and they seemed like they still had some good life to them so i left them there after inspection... thanks again to turbotodd and moogy for their writeups...

a couple of notes i might add...
- when replacing the fronts, turn the wheel to the direction you want to work in... the fronts were much easier to get to than the rears because of this...
- when pulling out the rod, with your other hand, firmly push in the support bracket (or whatever that's called) so that all you need do is pull out the rod...
- when pushing in the pistons with the old brake pads, use a better c-clamp than i did... it was a little too big to really gain enough leverage to push in the piston(s) enough, so i just used my pliers and pushed it in while using leverage against the rotor...

question...
when i pulled out the old brake pads, the rotor was free to wiggle about unsecured... seemed like the rotor should have been secured to something, no? is this normal? i mean, everything was tightened all up when i put everything back together, but seemed kinda strange...

a fun project, that took me 3 hours cause i didn't know what i was doing and i was using my car's scissor jack and didn't have the right tools... could probably do it now in under an hour if i had the proper equipment...

AlexusAnja

Paper clip? Heavy duty, or regular duty? I have not done the brakes yet, so not sure how much force or sheering the clip will be subject to, but I would not use a clip that could rust and possibly break off at some point. Does your significant other have hair pins? That might work better.

As for the rotor being loose, again, I have not changed it yet, but typically a rotor is held onto the backing by two screws. I have worked on some cars where the rotor does sit loose and the tires being mounted will keep the rotor in place. I would have thought the LS would not be a free floating type.

For timing, a full four wheel job takes me about an hour, and all I have of anything special is a 4-ton floor jack. Everything else is manual labor. You'll get better as you get better tools.

xschop

VERY good write up. I just did a Big Brake Conversion using these LS430 calipers on a Porsche 944. I do have a question. If you know what the piston diameters are on the 2-pot rears? I just may swap them out also....Thanks again for the work on the pictorial....

bad newz

that wuz a great help me how much is it 2 change sensor

AlexusAnja

To do it yourself, or by Lexus. If you buy the part, it's under $50 (aftermarket, not Lexus) up to $80 for Lexus. Then of course there is labor. I'm sure for two sensors it will run you over $200 installed.

Hope someone can chime in with better news.

StanVanDam

Excellent write-up and pics. Your LS430 went at least 75000 miles before changing the pads? Is this typical? How long do the LS430 pads usually last?

toantran99

Nice write up.

stvincent

iTrader: (5)

great write up and detailed pics.. thx.

Geminiking

wow...changing brakes on a LS430 is piece of cake. Ive changed brakes several times on my hondas which i consider easy but this is just ridiculously easy compare to them. Its a same how I read on another lexus forum that a dealership wants to charge $800 to do front and rare brakes including resurfacing the rotors.

LS430inDE.

Maybe it was one of those cute, pink plastic coated paperclips? LOL!

Excellent writeup btw!!!

toantran99

Thank goodness you changed your pads, there were really worn out.

roumieh200

Curious to change to the sensors, what is the price of fronts and rears ?

By the way they are located on one side in front and back side (right side).

FOUND THEM HERE:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...termarket.html

StanVanDam

OP: I noticed that you used Disc Brake Quiet and then used the synthetic grease on top. I found the following tidbit of info saying to not to use disc brake quiet for shimmed pads (which all LS models have):

"Thank you for you interest in CRC’s products. You had inquired whether it was better to use Disc Brake Quiet over Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease for quieting brake noise on your shimmed brake pad. We would recommend using Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease for your shimmed brake pads. Disc Brake Quiet is meant for usage on non-shimmed brake pads. The Disc Brake Quiet’s tackiness will cause the shimmed pad not to work properly. Additionally, the Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease will cut down on the corrosion on the brakes. Please let us know if you have any additional questions."

"CRC's engineers state that brake pads with a slice of metal built right onto the backing plate (they call this a metal gage riveted to the backing plate) is NOT a shimmed brake pad. The only pad design they consider to be "shimmed" are pads with actual, separate shims like those that are featured in the OEM pads. Shims that are detachable and must be user-installed. Any pads with riveted, pre-installed metal pieces that are not user removable are not considered shimmed pads."

Source: http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=617779