OP: I noticed that you used Disc Brake Quiet and then used the synthetic grease on top. I found the following tidbit of info saying to not to use disc brake quiet for shimmed pads (which all LS models have):
"Thank you for you interest in CRC’s products. You had inquired whether it was better to use Disc Brake Quiet over Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease for quieting brake noise on your shimmed brake pad. We would recommend using Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease for your shimmed brake pads. Disc Brake Quiet is meant for usage on non-shimmed brake pads. The Disc Brake Quiet’s tackiness will cause the shimmed pad not to work properly. Additionally, the Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease will cut down on the corrosion on the brakes. Please let us know if you have any additional questions."
"CRC's engineers state that brake pads with a slice of metal built right onto the backing plate (they call this a metal gage riveted to the backing plate) is NOT a shimmed brake pad. The only pad design they consider to be "shimmed" are pads with actual, separate shims like those that are featured in the OEM pads. Shims that are detachable and must be user-installed. Any pads with riveted, pre-installed metal pieces that are not user removable are not considered shimmed pads."
Disc brake quiet must have been the stuff the PO/dealer of my LX used on the pads. It's so tacky that it was impossible to remove the pads/shims when replacing them. I had to unbolt the entire caliper to remove the pads/shims. The only way to get the residue off the shims was to use a floor scraper (4" wide rigid razor blade). In the end, I replaced the shims w/ OEM and used OEM disc brake grease.
Great post!! Just did my brakes this weekend. No one should pay the dealer 650$(atleast thats what i was quoted) for a 2 hour job that anyone can do. I didnt do any "bedding" of the brakes and they seem to work excelent with no squeaks. This was the first time that then pads were changed on my car since new and I noticed the the manufacturer didnt put any grease on the back of the shims. My mileage is at 27k and the outer casing of the brake wear sensor was just slightly scratched. My guess is that in another 3-5k miles the sensor would have went off.
05 ML Mercury Metallic with dark tint (53k miles)
08 Acura MDX
when i pulled out the old brake pads, the rotor was free to wiggle about unsecured... seemed like the rotor should have been secured to something, no? is this normal? i mean, everything was tightened all up when i put everything back together, but seemed kinda strange...
I just changed all of my pads last night. Took about an hour per tire, working in a very small garage (< 1 foot of clearance all around), and in the dark for the passenger side. Thanks again to everyone who posted instructions and tips.
I noticed my front rotors were free to wiggle, but my rears were not. Is this normal?
I'd like to add some tips:
- the little cotter pin goes into a little hole in the big retaining pin that goes across the anti-rattle clip, not across the whole pin. Took me a few minutes to figure that out as my work area wasn't well illuminated.
- insert the retaining pin from the back to the front.
- the repair manual indicates the brakewear sensor clip is a non-reusable part. I applied minimal force with a very thin flathead screwdriver to remove it, so I reused mine.
- Tight pads can be removed using the retaining pin (or screwdriver) and leveraging against the caliper.
- the repair manual indicates that the disc brake grease should be applied to the inner shim only, and on both sides of the inner shim.
- rear pads had a lot more life than the front, but I replaced them all anyway.
- if you are going to buy a C-clamp, get a really small one. I thought the one I bought was small enough, but it wasn't. I used a strong screwdriver to compress the pistons.
Paper clip? Heavy duty, or regular duty? I have not done the brakes yet, so not sure how much force or sheering the clip will be subject to, but I would not use a clip that could rust and possibly break off at some point. Does your significant other have hair pins? That might work better.
Cotter pins are $2 a bag of 5 or 10 at a local auto parts shop. Just make sure you replace it with a proper stainless steel pin (if you used a paper clip or something) so that it won't rust away and fall off.
Though the pins themselves do not have much force exerted on them, if it falls off, you can lose your pads. If that happens on even one brake, you lose hydraulic pressure on half the system as the piston needs to settle on the disk rotor before regaining pressure...and by then you would have hit something...not to mention the destroyed rotor and piston in that brake.