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LS430 Brake Pad Replacement w/ Photos

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Old 02-26-10, 04:48 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by StanVanDam View Post
OP: I noticed that you used Disc Brake Quiet and then used the synthetic grease on top. I found the following tidbit of info saying to not to use disc brake quiet for shimmed pads (which all LS models have):

"Thank you for you interest in CRC’s products. You had inquired whether it was better to use Disc Brake Quiet over Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease for quieting brake noise on your shimmed brake pad. We would recommend using Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease for your shimmed brake pads. Disc Brake Quiet is meant for usage on non-shimmed brake pads. The Disc Brake Quiet’s tackiness will cause the shimmed pad not to work properly. Additionally, the Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease will cut down on the corrosion on the brakes. Please let us know if you have any additional questions."

"CRC's engineers state that brake pads with a slice of metal built right onto the backing plate (they call this a metal gage riveted to the backing plate) is NOT a shimmed brake pad. The only pad design they consider to be "shimmed" are pads with actual, separate shims like those that are featured in the OEM pads. Shims that are detachable and must be user-installed. Any pads with riveted, pre-installed metal pieces that are not user removable are not considered shimmed pads."

Source: http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=617779
I went back and looked at the photos. On the pads and shims, I used the disc brake quiet. I don't think I even used the grease.

In the future, I plan on only using the CRC disc brake quiet in the squeeze applicator. Much less messy. I think that can was nearly 10 years old.
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Old 02-26-10, 06:58 PM   #47
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Disc brake quiet must have been the stuff the PO/dealer of my LX used on the pads. It's so tacky that it was impossible to remove the pads/shims when replacing them. I had to unbolt the entire caliper to remove the pads/shims. The only way to get the residue off the shims was to use a floor scraper (4" wide rigid razor blade). In the end, I replaced the shims w/ OEM and used OEM disc brake grease.
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Old 03-06-10, 11:30 AM   #48
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Great pics, Thank you!
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Old 03-16-10, 11:53 PM   #49
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Just finished my pad replacement, save a lot $$$
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Old 04-04-10, 09:38 PM   #50
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Great post!! Just did my brakes this weekend. No one should pay the dealer 650$(atleast thats what i was quoted) for a 2 hour job that anyone can do. I didnt do any "bedding" of the brakes and they seem to work excelent with no squeaks. This was the first time that then pads were changed on my car since new and I noticed the the manufacturer didnt put any grease on the back of the shims. My mileage is at 27k and the outer casing of the brake wear sensor was just slightly scratched. My guess is that in another 3-5k miles the sensor would have went off.
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Old 04-13-10, 08:02 AM   #51
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when i pulled out the old brake pads, the rotor was free to wiggle about unsecured... seemed like the rotor should have been secured to something, no? is this normal? i mean, everything was tightened all up when i put everything back together, but seemed kinda strange...
I just changed all of my pads last night. Took about an hour per tire, working in a very small garage (< 1 foot of clearance all around), and in the dark for the passenger side. Thanks again to everyone who posted instructions and tips.

I noticed my front rotors were free to wiggle, but my rears were not. Is this normal?

I'd like to add some tips:

- the little cotter pin goes into a little hole in the big retaining pin that goes across the anti-rattle clip, not across the whole pin. Took me a few minutes to figure that out as my work area wasn't well illuminated.

- insert the retaining pin from the back to the front.

- the repair manual indicates the brakewear sensor clip is a non-reusable part. I applied minimal force with a very thin flathead screwdriver to remove it, so I reused mine.

- Tight pads can be removed using the retaining pin (or screwdriver) and leveraging against the caliper.

- the repair manual indicates that the disc brake grease should be applied to the inner shim only, and on both sides of the inner shim.

- rear pads had a lot more life than the front, but I replaced them all anyway.

- if you are going to buy a C-clamp, get a really small one. I thought the one I bought was small enough, but it wasn't. I used a strong screwdriver to compress the pistons.

- factory lug torque is 76 ft-lbs
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Old 06-10-10, 01:30 PM   #52
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IS it absolutely necessary to change caliper flange bolts when replacing rotors?
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Old 06-10-10, 08:39 PM   #53
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[quote=StanVanDam;5398559]

I noticed my front rotors were free to wiggle, but my rears were not. Is this normal?




My front driver side rotor is free to wiggle . I found it weird since the other three are solid in place. I wonder if thats normal
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Old 06-10-10, 11:04 PM   #54
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How do you go about changing the rotors? is there a DIY for that?
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Old 07-21-10, 10:19 PM   #55
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A picture is worth a thousand words. Thank you Turbo Todd! Your pictorial is worth the price of admission! You've set the standard for submissions.
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Old 07-22-10, 05:56 AM   #56
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Incredible. Probably took you twice as long as you normally would take just from snapping all those pictures.
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Old 07-22-10, 07:22 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by biga27110 View Post
How do you go about changing the rotors? is there a DIY for that?
Here is a writeup for a LS400...might not be exactly the same but should give you an idea of what's involved. I did this on my 2000 LS, and it was really simple.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls40...-00-ls400.html
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Old 07-22-10, 07:06 PM   #58
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Paper clip? Heavy duty, or regular duty? I have not done the brakes yet, so not sure how much force or sheering the clip will be subject to, but I would not use a clip that could rust and possibly break off at some point. Does your significant other have hair pins? That might work better.
Cotter pins are $2 a bag of 5 or 10 at a local auto parts shop. Just make sure you replace it with a proper stainless steel pin (if you used a paper clip or something) so that it won't rust away and fall off.

Though the pins themselves do not have much force exerted on them, if it falls off, you can lose your pads. If that happens on even one brake, you lose hydraulic pressure on half the system as the piston needs to settle on the disk rotor before regaining pressure...and by then you would have hit something...not to mention the destroyed rotor and piston in that brake.

just be safe!

Awesome write up by the way!
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Old 07-22-10, 07:08 PM   #59
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[QUOTE=Vpanin;5559442]
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanVanDam View Post

I noticed my front rotors were free to wiggle, but my rears were not. Is this normal?

My front driver side rotor is free to wiggle . I found it weird since the other three are solid in place. I wonder if thats normal
Certain amount of play is normal for some brake rotors as its designed to give and not torque the bearing when brakes are applied with some wear on them.
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Old 08-19-10, 11:39 AM   #60
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How much more work would be needed to get the rotors off? Im assuming you start the same way then take some more parts off?
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Old 08-19-10, 11:39 AM
 
 
 
 
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2003, 2005, brake, change, club, forums, lexus, ls, ls430, pad, pads, pics, rear, replace, sensor

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