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LS430 Brake Pad Replacement w/ Photos

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Old 04-12-09, 11:45 AM   #16
Bellex
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Appreciate this good sir! Now if I could get a DIY for My SC430!
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Old 04-12-09, 03:00 PM   #17
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Thank you very much for the informative post and detailed pictures. The thread has been added to the FAQ section for future references.
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Old 04-12-09, 08:25 PM   #18
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Two Thumbs up for a nice writeup. Did you bleed the brakes while you were at it?
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Old 04-12-09, 11:47 PM   #19
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dude you are braver than me. I dont trust myself enough to do stuff like that.
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Old 04-13-09, 05:22 AM   #20
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dude you are braver than me. I dont trust myself enough to do stuff like that.
The disc brakes on the LS actually are easier than most other disc brakes. I've done the brakes on all of my cars and they've had floating calipers where you need to remove the lower flange bolt and then pivot the caliper up. The LS, you don't even have to, just remove the clip and literally slide out and slide in the pads and you're done.

Also, discs are nothing compared to shoes. Drum brakes are the worst. Thank goodness most cars now have discs all around. A deal breaker for me on cars now would be front disc and rear drums (like on our 1990 Plymouth Voyager).
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Old 04-13-09, 12:37 PM   #21
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Outstanding write up with pics, Bravo sir!
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Old 04-13-09, 06:37 PM   #22
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Two Thumbs up for a nice writeup. Did you bleed the brakes while you were at it?
No problem! Didn't bleed the brakes. Had no difference in pedal feel, and at no point did the fluid level drop allowing air into the lines. Fluid was also extremely clean..

I appreciate all the kind words, the other posts were great, just wanted to add some extra detailed photographs..
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Old 04-13-09, 06:56 PM   #23
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No problem! Didn't bleed the brakes. Had no difference in pedal feel, and at no point did the fluid level drop allowing air into the lines. Fluid was also extremely clean..

I appreciate all the kind words, the other posts were great, just wanted to add some extra detailed photographs..
Same here. Unless the fluid is dark and dirty, I've never bled the fluid after a brake change. When pushing the pistons back, you're raising the fluid level, not dropping it, so air shouldn't get in the system during the change. If nothing else, if you've added fluid at some point to bring up to the full line when it was "low" because of the pad wear, then you might have to syphon some of the fluid out after two wheels or the fluid might overfill.
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Old 04-14-09, 10:30 PM   #24
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Excellent DIY. Thanks for the write up.
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Old 04-15-09, 08:06 AM   #25
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what about the rotors? Aren't you supposed to resurface them?
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Old 04-15-09, 08:47 AM   #26
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what about the rotors? Aren't you supposed to resurface them?
Unless the rotors are slightly warped, or there is pedal pulsation, then no need to turn/resurface the rotors. Of all the vehicles I have ever done brakes on, never resurfaced and have not had any premature wear or damage to rotors. I honestly feel that "resurfacing" is a purely "perfect world" step where you want the rotors to be absolutely flat again and get "perfect" contact with the pad. The only problem with this is that resurfacing is shaving away good material and THINNING the rotor to get it flat again.

Like I said, if there was not warping or pedal feel when you changed your pad, then leave the rotors alone. Extra task for nothing more than to wear away the rotor material and lead to earlier replacement.
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Old 04-15-09, 09:37 AM   #27
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I don't know what you guys do with "spare metal" like the brake parts, old rotors, metal plates and such, but I bring the pieces to my local metal recycling yard and deposit it with them to recycle. I use to just throw them away but one day just thought "I'm throwing this in the trash, which then sits in a garbage mound somewhere for who knows how long..." So, when it came time to get rid of an old metal shack I had, I went to the metal yard. Got $12 in weight for the shed and ever since I've thrown my metal stuff there.
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Old 04-15-09, 10:34 AM   #28
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Great write up, ill be doing mine soon
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Old 05-02-09, 12:23 PM   #29
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SUper!! ANd I almost went out to get a $105 sensor.
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Old 05-11-09, 03:08 PM   #30
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i'm about to tackle a brake pad change myself and had a few questions...

- if the brake wear sign comes on, does that mean the sensor is now "broken" and it has to be replaced?
- can i get away with just replacing the front pads only? i was told that the fronts wear out twice as fast as the rears... is this true?
- where's the best place to get oem pads? and for how much?

thanks for the great writeup, turbotodd! (and moogy who originally inspired turbotodd)
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Old 05-11-09, 03:08 PM
 
 
 
 
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2003, 2005, brake, change, club, forums, lexus, ls, ls430, pad, pads, pics, rear, replace, sensor

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