DIY: Oil change Lexus LS430 2003
02-02-13, 11:19 AM
#31
Ive actually put a strong.magnet near the drain plug that i remove just as the initial rush of oil is coming out. I dont know how much shavings i'm capturing, but using tube definitely wont work for me.
02-02-13, 02:21 PM
#32
The LS is located so well, that any girly-man (no offense to girly men) with pencil arms can tighten and loosen it later. Wrenched filters, like pneumatically tightened lug nuts, are mechanics ways of overtightening so the average Joe with the wrong tools can't get those parts off.
Girly or not, I use ramps to change the oil, and I cannot find a good position to grip the oil filter to loosen it.
02-02-13, 03:17 PM
#33
I use a torque wrench to tighten the oil filter to service manual specs. In doing so I tighten it to a point where I cannot loosen it by hand. I guess I am one of those girly men. LOL.
Girly or not, I use ramps to change the oil, and I cannot find a good position to grip the oil filter to loosen it.
Girly or not, I use ramps to change the oil, and I cannot find a good position to grip the oil filter to loosen it.
02-02-13, 05:06 PM
#34
A Test of Captured Particles Would Be Useful
Maybe this is best asked on a bobistheoilguy type site but we've used an extractor (since you almost have to) on boats for years. When we eventually pulled the pans there was literally nothing there. I think most of the tiniest pieces are held in suspension or captured in the filter.
I'm also thinking that the small metal pieces will come out last as the oil sweeps the remaining amount off the floor of the pan when nearly empty. It's a pretty lazy flow at that point.
I guess I'd like something more definitive before tripling my effort on oil changes. Of course YMMV and to each his own.
02-02-13, 08:51 PM
#36
Lexus Champion
I guess this begs the question, "If an aluminum block isn't leaving anything that can be captured, are there any micro pieces of bearings, journals and valves that are there to be captured - at all?"
Maybe this is best asked on a bobistheoilguy type site but we've used an extractor (since you almost have to) on boats for years. When we eventually pulled the pans there was literally nothing there. I think most of the tiniest pieces are held in suspension or captured in the filter.
I'm also thinking that the small metal pieces will come out last as the oil sweeps the remaining amount off the floor of the pan when nearly empty. It's a pretty lazy flow at that point.
I guess I'd like something more definitive before tripling my effort on oil changes. Of course YMMV and to each his own.
Maybe this is best asked on a bobistheoilguy type site but we've used an extractor (since you almost have to) on boats for years. When we eventually pulled the pans there was literally nothing there. I think most of the tiniest pieces are held in suspension or captured in the filter.
I'm also thinking that the small metal pieces will come out last as the oil sweeps the remaining amount off the floor of the pan when nearly empty. It's a pretty lazy flow at that point.
I guess I'd like something more definitive before tripling my effort on oil changes. Of course YMMV and to each his own.
But you should always drain the engine when it is hot, meaning as much of the particles, if any, will be suspended in the oil as possible.
02-02-13, 10:40 PM
#37
The magnet thing is just from practice...i dont know if im catching anything. Might just be dead weight. As for wrenches, I dont like overtightening with a wrench for fear of warping the filter gasket and causing a small leak. If you tighten by hand, it will be fine. All my cars have never used wrench to tighten. Have needed to loosen some times.
02-03-13, 05:43 AM
#38
Always by hand. BTW, if you raise the front end of the motor to reach the oil filter be sure to lower it while it drains. The was this engine is designed it will hold old oil in the galleys when it's raised in the front.
09-23-14, 03:55 PM
#39
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Removing Stuck Oil Filter
So as an aside which some might be unfortunate enough to find useful, I decided to provide some suggestions for those who (for whatever reason) run into an oil filter which will not unscrew off with conventional methods. Of course, the first thing it to double, triple, quadruple check you are not tightening it, as the orientation can create some initial uncertainty.
I recall hand tightening this one at my last oil change but may have used the oil filter wrench for the final say 1-8 turn. Either way, last night my filter was not coming off with any conventional wrench setup and was late for a date and had to drive to work today so the pressure to be creative was on. My regular circular wrench's handle bent to heck quickly, plier wrench was the same and the socket type I had found did not fit the Mobil 1 M1-102 precisely enough to have enough traction so.... onto the really fun things...
1. I used penetrating oil on the filters' outer meeting with the connection to the engine. I know the internal seal is where the trouble likely was, but at this point I was getting desperate. I also tried to see if I could fit a razor blade into this crevice to try and cut at the outermost seal.
2. I used a screwdriver with a 4-5 inch long and thicker type blade to puncture all the way through the filter, to be used functionally as a lever. As I tried to turn the the filter, the blade began to cut it's way through the filter.... This thing was not budging. Thinner screwdriver blades would have a higher tendency to break or cut the filter in my view so try thicker.
3. Final stage: I used a hammer and flathead screwdriver to create a small imprint/divot along the base of the filter. I then angled the screwdriver in such a way that further hammer strikes would cause the filter to be rotated (loosened) as the screwdriver head drove the filter counter clockwise using the divot. This was able to loosen the thing for removal and when done carefully should not cause any harm.
Hopefully this will help anyone who finds themselves in this situation. Hand tightening only has new importance for me.
I recall hand tightening this one at my last oil change but may have used the oil filter wrench for the final say 1-8 turn. Either way, last night my filter was not coming off with any conventional wrench setup and was late for a date and had to drive to work today so the pressure to be creative was on. My regular circular wrench's handle bent to heck quickly, plier wrench was the same and the socket type I had found did not fit the Mobil 1 M1-102 precisely enough to have enough traction so.... onto the really fun things...
1. I used penetrating oil on the filters' outer meeting with the connection to the engine. I know the internal seal is where the trouble likely was, but at this point I was getting desperate. I also tried to see if I could fit a razor blade into this crevice to try and cut at the outermost seal.
2. I used a screwdriver with a 4-5 inch long and thicker type blade to puncture all the way through the filter, to be used functionally as a lever. As I tried to turn the the filter, the blade began to cut it's way through the filter.... This thing was not budging. Thinner screwdriver blades would have a higher tendency to break or cut the filter in my view so try thicker.
3. Final stage: I used a hammer and flathead screwdriver to create a small imprint/divot along the base of the filter. I then angled the screwdriver in such a way that further hammer strikes would cause the filter to be rotated (loosened) as the screwdriver head drove the filter counter clockwise using the divot. This was able to loosen the thing for removal and when done carefully should not cause any harm.
Hopefully this will help anyone who finds themselves in this situation. Hand tightening only has new importance for me.
09-23-14, 06:18 PM
#40
09-23-14, 08:27 PM
#41
Moderator
When faced with a tough oil filter I always go to my 20 and 1/4 inch Channellock Pliers. They have never failed to quickly loosen a filter even when the only grip angle available on the filter is 90 degree vertical position. A relatively expensive hand tool but there are certain times in a lifetime of diy projects when you need a super strong big ^&% pair of pliers and these are the king.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHANNELLOCK-483-V-JAW-TONGUE-GROOVE-PLIER-/260920111755?pt=Pliers&hash=item3cc00cf28b
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHANNELLOCK-483-V-JAW-TONGUE-GROOVE-PLIER-/260920111755?pt=Pliers&hash=item3cc00cf28b
04-08-16, 10:43 AM
#42
I just finished changing the oil in my 2005 Lexus LS430. This was my first oil change since I bought it 5,000 miles ago.
1. Drove car up on ramps. Secured back wheels using tire chalks.
2. Remove the 2 screws that allow the section of the undercarriage cover to fold down. This will expose the oil filter. You do not have to remove the entire under carriage cover.
3. I used a 14 mm socket to remove oil drain plug with an oil drain pan to catch used oil.
4. I used a small oil filter wrench to remove the Toyota filter (#90915-YZZD3).
I used 5W/30 Valvoline High Mileage synthetic blend. I drained 5 qts out and put 5 1/2 quarts back in.
I've read where people have drained the oil with the car level but I kept the car up on ramps.
I was surprised how clean the oil looked coming out. Usually when I change the oil at 6 months or 5,000 miles on other cars it looks dark.
1. Drove car up on ramps. Secured back wheels using tire chalks.
2. Remove the 2 screws that allow the section of the undercarriage cover to fold down. This will expose the oil filter. You do not have to remove the entire under carriage cover.
3. I used a 14 mm socket to remove oil drain plug with an oil drain pan to catch used oil.
4. I used a small oil filter wrench to remove the Toyota filter (#90915-YZZD3).
I used 5W/30 Valvoline High Mileage synthetic blend. I drained 5 qts out and put 5 1/2 quarts back in.
I've read where people have drained the oil with the car level but I kept the car up on ramps.
I was surprised how clean the oil looked coming out. Usually when I change the oil at 6 months or 5,000 miles on other cars it looks dark.
Last edited by tradosauru; 04-09-16 at 10:08 AM.
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Fsport4lif (06-07-22)
12-11-16, 11:44 PM
#44
Did my first oil change on the 05 LS430.
I did it with the car on the ground parked on the level driveway. The pan plug was torqued to freakin 12,000 ft/lbs. I just used a breaker bar to open it and put it back with a slightly more than snug level of torque using a new washer; no big deal since it is like any other car.
The filter is another animal. A complete idiot designed the flap to open at the rear instead of the front so you can just get on the ground in front of the car and replace it without having to lift the car. I undid the front part of the shield and pulled a total of 6 screws to get to it from the front. The two screws that the flap uses were not in snug because the threads they screw into are plastic and well worn. I bite my tongue when I say this but Mercedes Benz designs better oil service access when they make a door that completely comes out of the car and is held in by 90 degrees turn twist tabs that are hand operated. The Mercedes doors are to access the drain plug since the filters on those are up top but still this is a really bad design by Toyota.
I did it with the car on the ground parked on the level driveway. The pan plug was torqued to freakin 12,000 ft/lbs. I just used a breaker bar to open it and put it back with a slightly more than snug level of torque using a new washer; no big deal since it is like any other car.
The filter is another animal. A complete idiot designed the flap to open at the rear instead of the front so you can just get on the ground in front of the car and replace it without having to lift the car. I undid the front part of the shield and pulled a total of 6 screws to get to it from the front. The two screws that the flap uses were not in snug because the threads they screw into are plastic and well worn. I bite my tongue when I say this but Mercedes Benz designs better oil service access when they make a door that completely comes out of the car and is held in by 90 degrees turn twist tabs that are hand operated. The Mercedes doors are to access the drain plug since the filters on those are up top but still this is a really bad design by Toyota.
12-12-16, 03:58 AM
#45
Lexus Fanatic
Did my first oil change on the 05 LS430.
I did it with the car on the ground parked on the level driveway. The pan plug was torqued to freakin 12,000 ft/lbs. I just used a breaker bar to open it and put it back with a slightly more than snug level of torque using a new washer; no big deal since it is like any other car.
The filter is another animal. A complete idiot designed the flap to open at the rear instead of the front so you can just get on the ground in front of the car and replace it without having to lift the car. I undid the front part of the shield and pulled a total of 6 screws to get to it from the front. The two screws that the flap uses were not in snug because the threads they screw into are plastic and well worn. I bite my tongue when I say this but Mercedes Benz designs better oil service access when they make a door that completely comes out of the car and is held in by 90 degrees turn twist tabs that are hand operated. The Mercedes doors are to access the drain plug since the filters on those are up top but still this is a really bad design by Toyota.
I did it with the car on the ground parked on the level driveway. The pan plug was torqued to freakin 12,000 ft/lbs. I just used a breaker bar to open it and put it back with a slightly more than snug level of torque using a new washer; no big deal since it is like any other car.
The filter is another animal. A complete idiot designed the flap to open at the rear instead of the front so you can just get on the ground in front of the car and replace it without having to lift the car. I undid the front part of the shield and pulled a total of 6 screws to get to it from the front. The two screws that the flap uses were not in snug because the threads they screw into are plastic and well worn. I bite my tongue when I say this but Mercedes Benz designs better oil service access when they make a door that completely comes out of the car and is held in by 90 degrees turn twist tabs that are hand operated. The Mercedes doors are to access the drain plug since the filters on those are up top but still this is a really bad design by Toyota.
