step-by-step timing belt replacement LS430
12-08-11, 11:04 AM
#32
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Yes that's exactly what I was referring to. Great! Thanks for your fast reply!
12-12-11, 12:07 PM
#33
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Hi All,
I just completed this service last night on a 2001 GS430. I wanted to thank everyone for this thread and add a couple of comments.
I took me roughly 10-11 hours all together. I did it over the course of three evenings. I was being very slow and carefull since it's been a couple years since I did timing belt job on a V8.
Have a replacement car in place so you don't have to rush through this. Make sure you have right tools! I had crank pulley holder and this helped a lot or you can use a gun I guess as well.
I followed instructions from repair manual and from here obviously. I timed it all at 50 degrees ATDC. Worked just fine.
Overall it wasn't hard but just timing consuming since I'm so **** about torque specs, cleaning parts and etc.
Kris
P.S. Water pump was starting to leak/seep through the air hole as well so just heads up. Mine is 2001 GS430 with 110 k miles on it.
I just completed this service last night on a 2001 GS430. I wanted to thank everyone for this thread and add a couple of comments.
I took me roughly 10-11 hours all together. I did it over the course of three evenings. I was being very slow and carefull since it's been a couple years since I did timing belt job on a V8.
Have a replacement car in place so you don't have to rush through this. Make sure you have right tools! I had crank pulley holder and this helped a lot or you can use a gun I guess as well.
I followed instructions from repair manual and from here obviously. I timed it all at 50 degrees ATDC. Worked just fine.
Overall it wasn't hard but just timing consuming since I'm so **** about torque specs, cleaning parts and etc.
Kris
P.S. Water pump was starting to leak/seep through the air hole as well so just heads up. Mine is 2001 GS430 with 110 k miles on it.
Last edited by krispl; 08-19-12 at 10:47 AM.
12-20-11, 12:50 PM
#34
I have similar concern with torquing all fasteners... I get that a strong torque wrench can remove the bolt, but won't that leave me with no way to lock the crank in order to get the correct torque on that bolt/nut when I reinstall everything? Tell me what I might be missing... how can you do this for the crank pulley if you don't have the SST or something to keep it from rotating? Thx
01-30-12, 08:25 PM
#35
Intermediate
When I did it on my 94LS, before starting the disassembly, I put a breaker on the crank bolt and the bar against the subframe and turned the starter for a split second. 
I think I found that 'tip' either on the LS400 board or on LEXLS.
I think I found that 'tip' either on the LS400 board or on LEXLS.
06-25-12, 10:05 AM
#38
Driver School Candidate
Just got done doing this over the weekend. Needless to say its not what I would call easy, especially with hot temperatures in the area.
A few notes. I used KISMETSDAD's write up exclusively and relied on the factory service manual for the torque on a few parts not listed there.
1. If you have a 2006 you have to remove two bolts from the AC compressor before you pull off the center pulleys. And lets just say thats not as advertised. They're difficult to reach and must be done under the car to get to them. NOT EASY. I dont think this is needed on the earlier models, but its in the steps on KISMETSDAD's site... however its not easy, at all.
2. I did the wedge cheater bar and tap starter method to loosen the crank belt, i did that on my Supra a few years ago and it worked great. However, torquing the bolt back on was another story because I didnt have the SST. For better or worse I wedged a heavy duty screwdriver into the pulley to keep it straight. The Auto Trans wont engage to hold the engine like the manual transmission does in the Supra. Oh well, but i did get it up to the right torque and it worked fine. YMMV - do that at your own risk.
3. DO NOT install the radiator assembly BEFORE you put on the drive belt. It says to do it that way in the service manual and its WRONG. Do the drive belt before you do the radiator install.
4. Toyota, why do you use those hose clamps, man they are a pain!
5. Engine under cover, 18 screws, I mean really geez and i was exhausted putting it back on at the end of the 2nd day.
6. Check Engine Light (CEL) and VSC Off came on when I started the car. Why? because i didnt disconnect the battery. I had left it on to use the old starter bump crank bolt trick and never took it off. Lesson learned, disconnect it and reset the ECU. Problem solved. But, man of course you freak out even if you double triple quadruple check the engine rotation to TDC and the crank pulleys.
7. Dont put the thermostat housing on until after you have the drive belt on. That thing just got in the way the whole time.
8. Watch out over torquing the bolts. I broke the one on the water inlet to water pump housing because the torque wrench wasnt working correctly. That was a trip to the parts place right there. Thank god it pulled right out easy and I didnt have to drill or tap a broken bolt.
Other than that everything went together pretty well. My cam pulleys didnt move after i pulled off the belt so i didnt really have the step that KISMETSDAD did to move the crank pulleys, but I did get scraped up during the install at some point I just didnt notice until I washed my hands.
Also I'm sure I could have done better than buying coolant at the Lexus STEALER. I probably should have gone to the Toyota dealer. live and learn.
A couple tools I know you're gonna need:
10mm Hex bolt socket - didnt have one, needed it for one bolt - UGH TOYOTA, REALLY?
Air Wrench - some bolts just didnt want to come off - I'm looking at you AC compressor.
3/8 and 1/2 torque wrench
8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 22mm sockets and 12mm wrench
Vise Grips or pliers for the clamps on the hoses
Phillips screwdriver
Good luck to anyone trying this, thankfully i'm good for 90,000-100,000 more miles now!
A few notes. I used KISMETSDAD's write up exclusively and relied on the factory service manual for the torque on a few parts not listed there.
1. If you have a 2006 you have to remove two bolts from the AC compressor before you pull off the center pulleys. And lets just say thats not as advertised. They're difficult to reach and must be done under the car to get to them. NOT EASY. I dont think this is needed on the earlier models, but its in the steps on KISMETSDAD's site... however its not easy, at all.
2. I did the wedge cheater bar and tap starter method to loosen the crank belt, i did that on my Supra a few years ago and it worked great. However, torquing the bolt back on was another story because I didnt have the SST. For better or worse I wedged a heavy duty screwdriver into the pulley to keep it straight. The Auto Trans wont engage to hold the engine like the manual transmission does in the Supra. Oh well, but i did get it up to the right torque and it worked fine. YMMV - do that at your own risk.
3. DO NOT install the radiator assembly BEFORE you put on the drive belt. It says to do it that way in the service manual and its WRONG. Do the drive belt before you do the radiator install.
4. Toyota, why do you use those hose clamps, man they are a pain!
5. Engine under cover, 18 screws, I mean really geez and i was exhausted putting it back on at the end of the 2nd day.
6. Check Engine Light (CEL) and VSC Off came on when I started the car. Why? because i didnt disconnect the battery. I had left it on to use the old starter bump crank bolt trick and never took it off. Lesson learned, disconnect it and reset the ECU. Problem solved. But, man of course you freak out even if you double triple quadruple check the engine rotation to TDC and the crank pulleys.
7. Dont put the thermostat housing on until after you have the drive belt on. That thing just got in the way the whole time.
8. Watch out over torquing the bolts. I broke the one on the water inlet to water pump housing because the torque wrench wasnt working correctly. That was a trip to the parts place right there. Thank god it pulled right out easy and I didnt have to drill or tap a broken bolt.
Other than that everything went together pretty well. My cam pulleys didnt move after i pulled off the belt so i didnt really have the step that KISMETSDAD did to move the crank pulleys, but I did get scraped up during the install at some point I just didnt notice until I washed my hands.
Also I'm sure I could have done better than buying coolant at the Lexus STEALER. I probably should have gone to the Toyota dealer. live and learn.
A couple tools I know you're gonna need:
10mm Hex bolt socket - didnt have one, needed it for one bolt - UGH TOYOTA, REALLY?
Air Wrench - some bolts just didnt want to come off - I'm looking at you AC compressor.
3/8 and 1/2 torque wrench
8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 22mm sockets and 12mm wrench
Vise Grips or pliers for the clamps on the hoses
Phillips screwdriver
Good luck to anyone trying this, thankfully i'm good for 90,000-100,000 more miles now!
07-05-12, 06:51 PM
#39
Intermediate
What was the age, mileage, and condition of the old belt?
That's a nice writeup. You are about ten times the mechanic I am.
_________________
Steve J.
'01 LS430
'95 T100
'04 Mazdaspeed MX5
That's a nice writeup. You are about ten times the mechanic I am.
_________________
Steve J.
'01 LS430
'95 T100
'04 Mazdaspeed MX5
Last edited by sajack; 07-05-12 at 06:55 PM.
07-05-12, 07:10 PM
#40
Driver School Candidate
On this one the belt was OE, so its 2006 (6 years old) and 107,000.
07-09-12, 01:20 AM
#41
Intermediate
Was your old timing belt in bad shape? Two different mechanics have given me the impression that these belts are very tough and seldom break.
I realize this is an interference engine and bends valves and possibly worse if it does break.
What bothers me worse than the expense is having somebody tear into a perfectly good-running OE engine. I sort of come from the old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it school".
I realize this is an interference engine and bends valves and possibly worse if it does break.
What bothers me worse than the expense is having somebody tear into a perfectly good-running OE engine. I sort of come from the old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it school".
Last edited by sajack; 07-09-12 at 01:24 AM.
07-09-12, 06:49 AM
#42
Driver School Candidate
It wasn't hanging by a thread, however it did show some wear as would be normal for a 6 year old piece of rubber.
Your mechanic is right, they seldom break, BECAUSE everyone who owns these cars knows to replace the timing belt and water pump around 90k.
I had an LS400 a few years ago and the dealer did the 90k service. During the reassembly they overtightened one of the bolts and broke one of the metal sleeves in the plastic cover. Well, the broken piece fell into the timing belt area and shredded the belt. Lucky for me they had a 12mo/12,000 warranty on all work so they took care of it, not so lucky for them it cost them over $4000 and the use of a loaner ES330 for me for 2.5 months.
So I guess you have two lessons learned above, 1. if you do get the service done at the dealer and they make a mistake, they will make good on fixing it. 2. If you push the service and decide to chance it, you could be out $4k and without your car for some time. I actually think I got lucky because in that case I'm not sure the engine can always be repaired.
I decided to do this one on my own mainly because the dealer did mess up the last one and I trust myself to do a good job and take my time, and because it saves money also.
Your mechanic is right, they seldom break, BECAUSE everyone who owns these cars knows to replace the timing belt and water pump around 90k.
I had an LS400 a few years ago and the dealer did the 90k service. During the reassembly they overtightened one of the bolts and broke one of the metal sleeves in the plastic cover. Well, the broken piece fell into the timing belt area and shredded the belt. Lucky for me they had a 12mo/12,000 warranty on all work so they took care of it, not so lucky for them it cost them over $4000 and the use of a loaner ES330 for me for 2.5 months.
So I guess you have two lessons learned above, 1. if you do get the service done at the dealer and they make a mistake, they will make good on fixing it. 2. If you push the service and decide to chance it, you could be out $4k and without your car for some time. I actually think I got lucky because in that case I'm not sure the engine can always be repaired.
I decided to do this one on my own mainly because the dealer did mess up the last one and I trust myself to do a good job and take my time, and because it saves money also.
07-11-12, 02:50 PM
#43
Intermediate
I drove 100 miles to the nearest Lexus dealer today and got the 10 year old, 77,000 mile timing belt changed. The orig. belt looked perfectly good, no cracks. I think it would have gone another 77,000 miles. Oh well, at least I have peace of mind.
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HartleyJW (03-22-17)
09-26-12, 11:04 AM
#45
Driver School Candidate
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Thanks to all for this great thread. I just completed the work on my 2005 LS430, 121k miles. Belt looked good, but I'm glad I changed it for peace of mind. Took me about 7 hours. The thing mentioned about the air compressor needing holding the serpentine idler pulley is true on the 2005 also. Mine came out pretty easily, though. I found it easiest to start installing the belt by lining up the crank mark on the belt first then moving to the 2 cam, then 1 cam. All in all, it was nice saving $700. Also gave me reason to really clean the engine bay.