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David,
I recommend you set aside an hour this weekend to go buy the tranny fluid from carquest(where I bought) or whomever has the lexus tranny fluid and swap 3 quarts out. The swap is as fast as an oil change. Make sure you have a funnel with a small spout and don't put the tranny fluid in the oil crank case on accident! hahaha
Yes, you should do this now at 174K.. Replace another 3 quarts in about 500 - 1000 miles, then 1000 miles later, then every 10-15K.
I wouldn't worry about the tranny filter unless you're super **** and ok with breaking the seal on the pan, which I'm not.
**EDIT: plug is removed exactly like an oil change. Clean any shavings from the plug as it's magnetized. You will likely have little to no shavings.
awesome, thanks, it does not sound really hard, now I actually need to find the time and the transmission fluid...
I did a complete flush of my trans fluid today. Here is how to do it yourself.
You will need:
8 quarts of Toyota Type IV Transmission fluid
10 feet of 3/8" I.D. (inside diameter) clear plastic tubing ($4 at Lowes)
(1) 1/2" x 3/8" tubing coupler
(1) large clear plastic container
(1) funnel with a long neck
(1) pair of plyers
(1) flathead screwdriver
empty containers to dispose of old trans fluid
10mm socket
On the left side of your engine you will see the two transcooler lines that run in and out of the bottom of the radiator. You want to use the line on the far left that has the blue spring clamp (in the picture) on it. My spring clamp was facing the bottom of the car so I had to remove the plastic shield underneath the front of the car and compress the clamp and spin it so it is facing up. You need the 10mm socket to remove the shield and the plyers to compress and spin the spring clamp.
This procedure worked GREAT on the SC430 also!
I was able to drain 8qts of transmission fluid in about 10 minutes; draining 4qts, then refill using the normal process, then draining another 4qts. It was fast and easy.
Refilled with Valvoline MaxLife ATF. it is formulated as a direct Toyota replacement ATF.
BTW, I have been using it for over 80k miles in a Toyota transmission and have had no issues at this point.
I've gone through this on my 2011 Camry and still debating whether to change the WS ATF. Only reason I haven't yet is I bought it new and have a lifetime PT warranty. I feel stupid for not though as I know the transmission will need replacing before I'm ready to get rid of the car.
This is specifically the reason when looking to buy an LS I didn't want an '04 and up.
I know the Toyota dealerships have changed their stance on changing the WS fluid (most say to change it between 80-100k), have the Lexus dealerships done the same?
OK, thinking about finally doing this due to Spring being here and the weather is much wamer...
I jacked up my car (was looking at my front pipe that needs to be replaced but, checked this out while I was there)
Is this the transmission dran plug ? This looks like what other people have said but, I want to be 100% sure... If so, this looks very easy (should be able to do it with out jacking the car up).
Also, how many bottles of Toyota T-IV SHOULD come out and how much should be put in ? Just trying to get an idea so I can order enough for 2-3 changes over the next few weeks.
Also, how many bottles of Toyota T-IV SHOULD come out and how much should be put in ? Just trying to get an idea so I can order enough for 2-3 changes over the next few weeks.
The Canadian 2002 spec is 1.8L of T-IV for a drain and refill, dry fill spec is 8.9L. Each 1L bottle costs $8.99 CAD at the dealership. Service manual specifically says "DO NOT overfill transmission beyond normal fluid level markings. Fluid foaming and transmission damage may occur."
Procedure:
1) Remove 14mm drain plug, drain the fluid. I remove the dipstick to enhance draining, takes 10-20 minutes for the fluid to turn into a slow drip, and this yields more than 1.8L but less than 2.0L of fluid.
2) Reinstall drain plug to 15 ft-lbs. I reuse the existing metal gasket.
3) With the engine OFF, add new fluid through the oil filler pipe (do this fairly slowly or it will overflow - keep a sheet of cardboard under the car below the filler pipe to protect your floor)
4) Start the engine, shift into all positions from P to L and back to P
5) With the engine idling, check the fluid level. Add fluid up to the COOL level on the dipstick
6) Check dipstick when fluid is at normal operating temperature, 70-80C (158-176F), add as necessary
I suggest draining out 2L and then putting in 2 entire 1L bottles of T-IV at every 8000km oil change, then when your fluid starts coming out clean, then change every 16/32/48000kms. It only adds a few minutes and $18 to each oil change.
If you think changing the oil is pretty easy, changing T-IV ATF is even easier. No need to remove any of the underbody covers - the drain plug is easily accessible by sliding underneath the driver door (especially with air suspension on HIGH).
There is a sticker on the dipstick in both English and Japanese saying ATF fluid changes are not required as part of routine maintenance. Factory spec is to do the 1.8L drain and refill every 96000km.
Last edited by StanVanDam; 09-26-16 at 03:48 PM.
Reason: Added more DIY details
^^^
One of the first few page here still had pix. Realistically, just look for two tubes that attach to two rubber hoses that go from engine to radiator. I did this "flush" on both my Avalon and my old Chrysler 'vert in the Spring. One extra "trick' I used was to use caliper to measure the O.D. (outside diameter) of the metal tubes, then buy 10ft of clear flexible plastic tubing with the same (or slightly smaller) I.D. (internal diameter).
Remove rubber hose, slip plastic tubing over metal pipe, use tube to drain.
On the later model LS430, if you don't want to get under the car, and mess with plugs, pull *both* hoses off both tubes.
Now -given you're meticulous- you can set up an IV system, funnel up high, connected to "suction" or supply side, empty bottle (marked off in quarts or pints) on floor.
Start car, pump out X quarts of fluid, shut off, add same amount of new via funnel.
Repeat until fluid expelled is a nice clear red.
You now *have to* have the same amount of fluid in trans that you started with.
*** Predicated on doing the whole thing with car COLD, so old fluid has not expanded! ***
SIDE NOTE: I don't own a 430 *yet*, but doing my reading, what I've read is that they didn't bother to have Asin, their transmission supplier, modify the transmission when they became "sealed", so tube for dipstick is still there, but covered by a removable plate. So if you really want to, there's another way to access transmission fluid
One other thing ... to do this right, while car running, for the 5-10 seconds of each cycle, put it in Drive for a bit, then move to Neutral (foot-on-brake of course!). This gets fluid circulated from torque converter. Not to worry, tens of thousands have run cars down a quart for hundreds of miles, why else were there dipsticks? 5 seconds not under load won't hurt things.
Lexus, and Mercedes, and BMW Transmission fluid is lifetime fill - when the trans dies, it's life is over.
If it were truly lifetime, why wouldn't they use the old fluid in the new transmission?
Certainly that wold be the Green thing to do.
Everything eventually wears out, including trans fluid.
BTW, the argument about WS fluid being hydroscopic, so that's why the trans is sealed?Then why does my Avalon, which calls for WS fluid, have a transmission-fluid dipstick?
Because Toyota wants the transmission to fail?
09-29-14, 12:28 PM
