Check VSC VSC off
02-22-13, 03:02 AM
#77
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03-05-13, 03:29 PM
#78
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Check, VSC, VSC Off
I have a 2003 GS 3000 and all three lights suddenly illuminated: Check, VSC, VSC Off w/o any secondary symptoms. Followed the excellent guidance of Fyounes and others by jumping across the two contacts #3/5. The VSC and VSC Off lights extinguished (w/ key in the ignition in the "OFF" position), but the VSC Off light never flashed as expected. Upon removing the jumpers and starting the car, lights once again illuminated w/ the engine running. Tightened the gas cap (probably not related) w/o success. Suggestions most welcome before I head to the dealer ($$) Thanks
03-11-13, 07:46 PM
#79
Recently my check VSC/CEL/Trac off lighst had been on and off for a couple of weeks until it stayed on completely. I thought it was the gas cap but come to find out I had a small exhaust leak on the Y pipe. Patched it with some autozone exhaust tape saturday. Started my car the next day to go to work and low and behold the light are off. I will keep a close eye on it though Because I know the pach won't last long But hopefully it will last until I get the pipe fixed or replaced. Also when i was doing the patch i noticed a ground strap broken near the cataylic conv. Is this strap very inportant or is it one of those "precaution" ground straps?
03-16-14, 08:53 AM
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Code c1336 Toyota ABS on my 02 Lexus SC430
Hi guys. So i have read this forum that multiple users have encountered the c1336 VSC off engine light issue and that the fix is to jump the ts and gc connections on the DLC panel. I would like to know if the position of these are same for a SC430 vehicle also or different. I see that for various LS models it is 3 top and 5 bottom from left. Will it be same for sc430?
03-18-14, 01:47 PM
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Right After Taking My Car For the Oil Change. My VSC and The Cruise Control died. They did a Battery Load Test, Checked Differential Level, Checked Tranny Level, Changed motor oil and Tire Pressure. Instant Dash Light. I reset the VSC with h ODB tester but no correction. Please advise.
Thanks
Thanks
03-27-14, 01:29 AM
#83
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2001 VSC OFF plus VSC Light
Hi all
I did the reset procedure as mentioned here for my 2001 LS 430 and it worked. Lights are off for now. Thanks to the contributors.
Jon
I did the reset procedure as mentioned here for my 2001 LS 430 and it worked. Lights are off for now. Thanks to the contributors.
Jon
04-06-14, 06:47 AM
#84
I just bought an 03 ES two days ago and it had the same problem, TRAC OFF and VSC lights would come on after driving the vehicle for a while.
I verified that the diagrams provided by FYOUNES (page 1 of this thread) and PilotSmith (page 2) are both correct.
Here is the procedure that I did in case if you can't see their pictures sometime down the road (e.g. 5-10 years later):
1. Park on a leveled surface. Your garage or a parking lot. If your driveway is leveled enough then that's ok too.
2. Make sure engine is off and you have the key in your hand.
3. Short 2 pins of DLC3 (the port that your OBD 2 would connect to) with a paper clip or any flexible conductive metal. You need to short CG (ground) and TS (not sure what it stands for). So the DLC3 is like a trapezoid shape. On the wide side, count 4th pin from the right, put one end of your paper clip (or metal) in it. On the narrow side, count 3rd pin from the left, and connect the other end of the paper clip to it. If you don't know where DLC3 is, See PilotSmith's post from page 3. It's a white connector under your steering wheel.
3. While you're using one hand to hold the paper clip, use the other hand to turn on the car, but do not start it yet or it won't work.
4. Wait for X amount of seconds. I waited for 20 - 30 seconds, although it's possible that 5 seconds or less might work. During this step I saw VSC and ABS flashing, but TRAC OFF light did not flash at all. What you see could be different since mine is an 03 ES.
5. Turn off the vehicle.
6. Remove the paper clip that you used to short 2 pins.
7. Restart the vehicle and drive around.
8. If the problem is still not fixed, see a professional to resolve the problem.
I verified that the diagrams provided by FYOUNES (page 1 of this thread) and PilotSmith (page 2) are both correct.
Here is the procedure that I did in case if you can't see their pictures sometime down the road (e.g. 5-10 years later):
1. Park on a leveled surface. Your garage or a parking lot. If your driveway is leveled enough then that's ok too.
2. Make sure engine is off and you have the key in your hand.
3. Short 2 pins of DLC3 (the port that your OBD 2 would connect to) with a paper clip or any flexible conductive metal. You need to short CG (ground) and TS (not sure what it stands for). So the DLC3 is like a trapezoid shape. On the wide side, count 4th pin from the right, put one end of your paper clip (or metal) in it. On the narrow side, count 3rd pin from the left, and connect the other end of the paper clip to it. If you don't know where DLC3 is, See PilotSmith's post from page 3. It's a white connector under your steering wheel.
3. While you're using one hand to hold the paper clip, use the other hand to turn on the car, but do not start it yet or it won't work.
4. Wait for X amount of seconds. I waited for 20 - 30 seconds, although it's possible that 5 seconds or less might work. During this step I saw VSC and ABS flashing, but TRAC OFF light did not flash at all. What you see could be different since mine is an 03 ES.
5. Turn off the vehicle.
6. Remove the paper clip that you used to short 2 pins.
7. Restart the vehicle and drive around.
8. If the problem is still not fixed, see a professional to resolve the problem.
Last edited by gt1209; 04-07-14 at 11:53 AM.
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coug66 (09-28-17)
05-30-14, 05:58 PM
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Just had an 02 sensor (right bank rear) replaced, due to a 'check engine' light. After procedure, "VSC Off" remained illuminated and cruise control inoperable. Apparently, this is an electronics glitch (?) and the terminal jump described above will reset the system with regard to VSC. Worked like a charm. Stumped my mechanic (a pretty seasoned-on-Lexus independent), so he'll be glad to hear about this as well.
Thanks for all the posts, guys! (PS, I found the diagram on p.3 to be correct: Top row=3rd from left, bottom row=5th from left).
Thanks for all the posts, guys! (PS, I found the diagram on p.3 to be correct: Top row=3rd from left, bottom row=5th from left).
07-16-14, 01:04 PM
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Hello dear club fellas
I came across this thread after I had numerous attempts to fix my check engine light d/t o2 sensor and had some questions that I hope to get answered here.
It's is a long story. The check engine light and VSC OFF went off about more than a year ago, during the summer time. The initial symptoms was like that the check engine light went on during the initial check, then it went off itself without any treatment. I thought at that time it might be caused by the leaky exhaust pipe. I went to have the code read and it says something about Bank1 Sensor 1. P0031 I bought the sensor but had to delay the DIY due to tight study schedule.
Finally, I got time to try to fix the problem after graduation. First, I had the Y pipe changed and had the code reset. It came back on after a few miles. Then the guy at the muffler garage recommended me to a full service garage to have the the sensor checked out. I took his recommendation and went to the garage, thinking it is going to be the exact error message with what I've been getting before. To my surprise, the full service garage told me it was Bank 2 sensor 1 instead even after I told them it was always the error msg of bank 1 sensor 1 and said that's the only problem they've found. I had to buy a new sensor and spent many hours to replace the bank 2, sensor 1.
Frustrated enough when the check engine light turned on again after I had it reset after replaced the sensor, I started to doubt the report given by the garage. I had the error code read again and confirmed it is still the bank 1 sensor 1's problem and thus lost faith in that "fool service garage". I swapped the bank1 sensor 1 and at the mean time, reconnected the seemingly broken ground wire that looks exactly like the one that was posted in the previously.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...-21-08_474.jpg
This time, I left the engine idea at 2000 xRPM for about 10 minutes in order to test the newly installed o2 sensor after I unplugged the battery for 20 seconds. The check engine lights stay off during the whole time. But when I went on to have a street running test, the engine light came back on!! Still p0031
I've exhausted all the ideas to fix the problem at this point and need advice/guidance on my next step towards the solution.
1. Is the ground wire that I reconnected has anything to do with the sensor heat circuit voltage? Is it suppose to be insulated or just uninsulated and left dangle like that? It is unavoidable for the wire to touch the exhaust pipe if left dangle and would that cause the sensor short circuit?
2. I had some anti seize grease put on the thread during the replacing process and there are some smeared on the inner portion of the sensor that stays inside the exhaust pipe. could that cause the failure of the oxygen sensor?
3. Does the code P0031 have anything to do with the catalyst converter? could it be a bad catalyst converter or leaky Y pipe that cause the error code? I personally think it would be something pointing to the bank 1 sensor 2 if it is a leak or bad catalyst converter, but I might be wrong.
4. Would the VSC reset procedure solve the problem? I think the VSC is what I really needed during the winter ride since mine is RWD.
YL
I came across this thread after I had numerous attempts to fix my check engine light d/t o2 sensor and had some questions that I hope to get answered here.
It's is a long story. The check engine light and VSC OFF went off about more than a year ago, during the summer time. The initial symptoms was like that the check engine light went on during the initial check, then it went off itself without any treatment. I thought at that time it might be caused by the leaky exhaust pipe. I went to have the code read and it says something about Bank1 Sensor 1. P0031 I bought the sensor but had to delay the DIY due to tight study schedule.
Finally, I got time to try to fix the problem after graduation. First, I had the Y pipe changed and had the code reset. It came back on after a few miles. Then the guy at the muffler garage recommended me to a full service garage to have the the sensor checked out. I took his recommendation and went to the garage, thinking it is going to be the exact error message with what I've been getting before. To my surprise, the full service garage told me it was Bank 2 sensor 1 instead even after I told them it was always the error msg of bank 1 sensor 1 and said that's the only problem they've found. I had to buy a new sensor and spent many hours to replace the bank 2, sensor 1.
Frustrated enough when the check engine light turned on again after I had it reset after replaced the sensor, I started to doubt the report given by the garage. I had the error code read again and confirmed it is still the bank 1 sensor 1's problem and thus lost faith in that "fool service garage". I swapped the bank1 sensor 1 and at the mean time, reconnected the seemingly broken ground wire that looks exactly like the one that was posted in the previously.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...-21-08_474.jpg
This time, I left the engine idea at 2000 xRPM for about 10 minutes in order to test the newly installed o2 sensor after I unplugged the battery for 20 seconds. The check engine lights stay off during the whole time. But when I went on to have a street running test, the engine light came back on!! Still p0031
I've exhausted all the ideas to fix the problem at this point and need advice/guidance on my next step towards the solution.
1. Is the ground wire that I reconnected has anything to do with the sensor heat circuit voltage? Is it suppose to be insulated or just uninsulated and left dangle like that? It is unavoidable for the wire to touch the exhaust pipe if left dangle and would that cause the sensor short circuit?
2. I had some anti seize grease put on the thread during the replacing process and there are some smeared on the inner portion of the sensor that stays inside the exhaust pipe. could that cause the failure of the oxygen sensor?
3. Does the code P0031 have anything to do with the catalyst converter? could it be a bad catalyst converter or leaky Y pipe that cause the error code? I personally think it would be something pointing to the bank 1 sensor 2 if it is a leak or bad catalyst converter, but I might be wrong.
4. Would the VSC reset procedure solve the problem? I think the VSC is what I really needed during the winter ride since mine is RWD.
YL
07-16-14, 01:58 PM
#87
Hello dear club fellas
I came across this thread after I had numerous attempts to fix my check engine light d/t o2 sensor and had some questions that I hope to get answered here.
It's is a long story. The check engine light and VSC OFF went off about more than a year ago, during the summer time. The initial symptoms was like that the check engine light went on during the initial check, then it went off itself without any treatment. I thought at that time it might be caused by the leaky exhaust pipe. I went to have the code read and it says something about Bank1 Sensor 1. P0031 I bought the sensor but had to delay the DIY due to tight study schedule.
Finally, I got time to try to fix the problem after graduation. First, I had the Y pipe changed and had the code reset. It came back on after a few miles. Then the guy at the muffler garage recommended me to a full service garage to have the the sensor checked out. I took his recommendation and went to the garage, thinking it is going to be the exact error message with what I've been getting before. To my surprise, the full service garage told me it was Bank 2 sensor 1 instead even after I told them it was always the error msg of bank 1 sensor 1 and said that's the only problem they've found. I had to buy a new sensor and spent many hours to replace the bank 2, sensor 1.
Frustrated enough when the check engine light turned on again after I had it reset after replaced the sensor, I started to doubt the report given by the garage. I had the error code read again and confirmed it is still the bank 1 sensor 1's problem and thus lost faith in that "fool service garage". I swapped the bank1 sensor 1 and at the mean time, reconnected the seemingly broken ground wire that looks exactly like the one that was posted in the previously.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...-21-08_474.jpg
This time, I left the engine idea at 2000 xRPM for about 10 minutes in order to test the newly installed o2 sensor after I unplugged the battery for 20 seconds. The check engine lights stay off during the whole time. But when I went on to have a street running test, the engine light came back on!! Still p0031
I've exhausted all the ideas to fix the problem at this point and need advice/guidance on my next step towards the solution.
1. Is the ground wire that I reconnected has anything to do with the sensor heat circuit voltage? Is it suppose to be insulated or just uninsulated and left dangle like that? It is unavoidable for the wire to touch the exhaust pipe if left dangle and would that cause the sensor short circuit?
2. I had some anti seize grease put on the thread during the replacing process and there are some smeared on the inner portion of the sensor that stays inside the exhaust pipe. could that cause the failure of the oxygen sensor?
3. Does the code P0031 have anything to do with the catalyst converter? could it be a bad catalyst converter or leaky Y pipe that cause the error code? I personally think it would be something pointing to the bank 1 sensor 2 if it is a leak or bad catalyst converter, but I might be wrong.
4. Would the VSC reset procedure solve the problem? I think the VSC is what I really needed during the winter ride since mine is RWD.
YL
I came across this thread after I had numerous attempts to fix my check engine light d/t o2 sensor and had some questions that I hope to get answered here.
It's is a long story. The check engine light and VSC OFF went off about more than a year ago, during the summer time. The initial symptoms was like that the check engine light went on during the initial check, then it went off itself without any treatment. I thought at that time it might be caused by the leaky exhaust pipe. I went to have the code read and it says something about Bank1 Sensor 1. P0031 I bought the sensor but had to delay the DIY due to tight study schedule.
Finally, I got time to try to fix the problem after graduation. First, I had the Y pipe changed and had the code reset. It came back on after a few miles. Then the guy at the muffler garage recommended me to a full service garage to have the the sensor checked out. I took his recommendation and went to the garage, thinking it is going to be the exact error message with what I've been getting before. To my surprise, the full service garage told me it was Bank 2 sensor 1 instead even after I told them it was always the error msg of bank 1 sensor 1 and said that's the only problem they've found. I had to buy a new sensor and spent many hours to replace the bank 2, sensor 1.
Frustrated enough when the check engine light turned on again after I had it reset after replaced the sensor, I started to doubt the report given by the garage. I had the error code read again and confirmed it is still the bank 1 sensor 1's problem and thus lost faith in that "fool service garage". I swapped the bank1 sensor 1 and at the mean time, reconnected the seemingly broken ground wire that looks exactly like the one that was posted in the previously.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...-21-08_474.jpg
This time, I left the engine idea at 2000 xRPM for about 10 minutes in order to test the newly installed o2 sensor after I unplugged the battery for 20 seconds. The check engine lights stay off during the whole time. But when I went on to have a street running test, the engine light came back on!! Still p0031
I've exhausted all the ideas to fix the problem at this point and need advice/guidance on my next step towards the solution.
1. Is the ground wire that I reconnected has anything to do with the sensor heat circuit voltage? Is it suppose to be insulated or just uninsulated and left dangle like that? It is unavoidable for the wire to touch the exhaust pipe if left dangle and would that cause the sensor short circuit?
2. I had some anti seize grease put on the thread during the replacing process and there are some smeared on the inner portion of the sensor that stays inside the exhaust pipe. could that cause the failure of the oxygen sensor?
3. Does the code P0031 have anything to do with the catalyst converter? could it be a bad catalyst converter or leaky Y pipe that cause the error code? I personally think it would be something pointing to the bank 1 sensor 2 if it is a leak or bad catalyst converter, but I might be wrong.
4. Would the VSC reset procedure solve the problem? I think the VSC is what I really needed during the winter ride since mine is RWD.
YL
07-17-14, 09:31 AM
#88
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Thanks Slvr surfr for your rely,
I'll probably get a heavy duty ground wire as well to eliminate the potential effect from it. As for the associated wire like you mentioned, is there a guide or anything on how to check it? I think I came across some diagrams through the Googling process which indicates that the upper link of the circuit is part of the bigger bundle wire. I also tried to measure the voltage for the heating circuit, the reading fluctuates probably due to unsteady connection when I tried to reach them within a very narrowed space. the reading varies from ~800mV to ~80mV, but nothing like 12V. Is it normal?
Thanks.
I'll probably get a heavy duty ground wire as well to eliminate the potential effect from it. As for the associated wire like you mentioned, is there a guide or anything on how to check it? I think I came across some diagrams through the Googling process which indicates that the upper link of the circuit is part of the bigger bundle wire. I also tried to measure the voltage for the heating circuit, the reading fluctuates probably due to unsteady connection when I tried to reach them within a very narrowed space. the reading varies from ~800mV to ~80mV, but nothing like 12V. Is it normal?
Thanks.
You may wanna try and check the associated wires thats apart of that circuit. The heavy ground strap does play a small role in circuit voltage but i have not heard anyone on this forum having a problem with it. The pic you're referring to is mine. I replace that strap with a heavier gauge version just to be sure. Good luck.
07-20-14, 11:12 AM
#89
Thanks Slvr surfr for your rely,
I'll probably get a heavy duty ground wire as well to eliminate the potential effect from it. As for the associated wire like you mentioned, is there a guide or anything on how to check it? I think I came across some diagrams through the Googling process which indicates that the upper link of the circuit is part of the bigger bundle wire. I also tried to measure the voltage for the heating circuit, the reading fluctuates probably due to unsteady connection when I tried to reach them within a very narrowed space. the reading varies from ~800mV to ~80mV, but nothing like 12V. Is it normal?
Thanks.
I'll probably get a heavy duty ground wire as well to eliminate the potential effect from it. As for the associated wire like you mentioned, is there a guide or anything on how to check it? I think I came across some diagrams through the Googling process which indicates that the upper link of the circuit is part of the bigger bundle wire. I also tried to measure the voltage for the heating circuit, the reading fluctuates probably due to unsteady connection when I tried to reach them within a very narrowed space. the reading varies from ~800mV to ~80mV, but nothing like 12V. Is it normal?
Thanks.
07-20-14, 10:25 PM
#90
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The heater circuit should always read 12 volts when the car is on. mV readings are typical of the primary ecu data circuit. Make sure you are reading the correct pins. Ive tried to find a pin out of our cars with no real success becaise I wanted to trace my circuit also. Im still fishing for info.