My first DIY for the LS430...Here comes the BOOM...
12-20-07, 10:01 AM
#61
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the oriiginal DIY instructions are very vague. You have to bring down the armrest, then snap off the plastic shroud like cover, it just snaps off. You will see the middle bolt on the upper part of the seat.
but all of this is redundant as it is not even necessary.
as for messy....who cares!
You put the grille cover over it and fixes the problem very affectively.
but all of this is redundant as it is not even necessary.
as for messy....who cares!
You put the grille cover over it and fixes the problem very affectively.
02-08-08, 04:06 PM
#62
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Thanks a Million...Got my boom back
sorry to bring up a old post.
I removed the back seat only to realize that I didn't need to, so this is a FYI for anyone in the future that runs into the mark levinson subwoofer issue.
a little clarity by some of you who's done this would have been very helpful.
I removed my subwoofer because I wasn't sure if my subwoofer was permanently damaged and needed replacement, or needed to be removed for repair.
If your hearing hearing some kind of crack but can still hear the bass, THIS MEANS YOUR SUBWOOFER SURROUNDS ARE TORN. Your subwoofer is not necessarily in need of replacement. Do not assume your sub is permanently damaged, this is EASILY repaired without the trouble of removing the subwoofer.
all you do is remove the grille (it comes out very easily) , use some silicon glue (from home depot 4 bucks) and glue the surround to the plastic ring. I have some pics and upload it tonight.
I removed the back seat only to realize that I didn't need to, so this is a FYI for anyone in the future that runs into the mark levinson subwoofer issue.
a little clarity by some of you who's done this would have been very helpful.
I removed my subwoofer because I wasn't sure if my subwoofer was permanently damaged and needed replacement, or needed to be removed for repair.
If your hearing hearing some kind of crack but can still hear the bass, THIS MEANS YOUR SUBWOOFER SURROUNDS ARE TORN. Your subwoofer is not necessarily in need of replacement. Do not assume your sub is permanently damaged, this is EASILY repaired without the trouble of removing the subwoofer.
all you do is remove the grille (it comes out very easily) , use some silicon glue (from home depot 4 bucks) and glue the surround to the plastic ring. I have some pics and upload it tonight.
02-15-08, 04:02 PM
#63
ok, i installed the jl audio 8w0 4ohms last night and when i turn up the volume my system goes off. I know it has something to do with the amp overheating. i have a 02 LS. The install was easy & system sounds great when working. Any answers..suggestions
02-15-08, 05:08 PM
#64
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Your JL sub is not matching the impedance of the original sub, thus making the oem levinson amp play at the non optimal impedance it was designed to do.
best bet is to use oem sub.
best bet is to use oem sub.
02-15-08, 05:37 PM
#65
but its the same speaker as the the guy that started this post...same hook up everything.
02-15-08, 07:05 PM
#66
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yeah but the guy maybe didn't play as high or as long as u did, once the amp overheats that's it, it will cut out.
and are u sure u got the right impedance ? those JL w0's come in different impedances.
and are u sure u got the right impedance ? those JL w0's come in different impedances.
02-27-08, 03:12 PM
#70
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To get an aftermarket sub to 2 ohms in order to match the factory's, all you need to do is find a free air dual voice coil 4 ohm sub and wire the coils in parallel. The free air sub that you want will likely have a QTs of about 0.7 plus or minus 0.1
Here is a nice 8" sub that should work well: http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/sp...nch/mm2084dvc/
The ML subs are nothing special.
The ML subs use a neo magnet which is in theory 10 times stronger per weight than the strontium magnet that the JL or other traditional subs use.
In general, free air subs require less magnet size than a sub designed for small or vented boxes.
Here is a nice 8" sub that should work well: http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/sp...nch/mm2084dvc/
The ML subs are nothing special.
The ML subs use a neo magnet which is in theory 10 times stronger per weight than the strontium magnet that the JL or other traditional subs use.
In general, free air subs require less magnet size than a sub designed for small or vented boxes.
Last edited by haulin79; 02-27-08 at 03:51 PM.
03-02-08, 06:38 AM
#71
the jl audio sub does work. I also installed the SLI for my ipod. The problem i originally ran across was the system shutting off, so i disconnected the sub and was still having the same problem. I then disconnected the SLI and found that i didn't have my radio harness pushed all the way in. After doing this i have had no problem & the jl audio 8w0 sounds great. thanks for all the help.
Last edited by dubsta1; 03-02-08 at 07:05 AM.
03-02-08, 06:21 PM
#72
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Did you have a properly-working ML sub in the first place? I'm just wondering how the replacement sub compares in direct comparison. I would enjoy a little more thump, but not enough that I'd go add some extra speakers. If a simple sub-swap is all it takes to add a little tighter, thumpier, deeper bass, than it would be worth it to me.
03-07-08, 05:17 AM
#73
So let me get this straight i could replace my ML sub with the polk audio one listed above and then what kind of amp would i have to purchase to give it at lears 3/4 of it's maximum power?
03-07-08, 06:44 AM
#74
Lexus Champion
keep this in mind, since the factory sub is 2 ohms, you guys using 4 ohm subs are getting only half the available power out of hte factory amp. it will work fine forever this way, but you're getting only half of what it's good for.
look for dual 4 ohm subs to show a 2 ohm final load bywiring in parallel, or dual 1 ohm subs to achieve the same by wiring in series.
look for dual 4 ohm subs to show a 2 ohm final load bywiring in parallel, or dual 1 ohm subs to achieve the same by wiring in series.
