My first DIY for the LS430...Here comes the BOOM...
12-20-09, 04:34 PM
#136
How exactly do you wire the coils in parellel?
To get an aftermarket sub to 2 ohms in order to match the factory's, all you need to do is find a free air dual voice coil 4 ohm sub and wire the coils in parallel. The free air sub that you want will likely have a QTs of about 0.7 plus or minus 0.1
Here is a nice 8" sub that should work well: http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/sp...nch/mm2084dvc/
The ML subs are nothing special.
The ML subs use a neo magnet which is in theory 10 times stronger per weight than the strontium magnet that the JL or other traditional subs use.
In general, free air subs require less magnet size than a sub designed for small or vented boxes.
Here is a nice 8" sub that should work well: http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/sp...nch/mm2084dvc/
The ML subs are nothing special.
The ML subs use a neo magnet which is in theory 10 times stronger per weight than the strontium magnet that the JL or other traditional subs use.
In general, free air subs require less magnet size than a sub designed for small or vented boxes.
I feel like I'm beating a dead horse on this subject, but if I were to replace my blown OEM ML subwoofer with the Polk Audio one haulin suggested above, can someone spell out exactly how to wire this 4 ohm sub in parellel to make it 8 ohm? (assuming the factory ML is really an 8 ohm sub...there seems to be some debate about that). I just want to make certain I'm not going to harm the factory amp with an aftermarket sub.
thanks!!
12-21-09, 06:26 PM
#137
I'd like to correct my last post above. After alot of reading on this subject I think I've found the real ohm reading from the stock ML sub. It appears to be a 12 ohm sub.
So, my only question now about this entire subject is: Where or what exact model replacement sub is best suited for a replacment? I can't find any 6ohm 8 inch subs anywhere online or searching. Does anyone know of a sub that is easly found or ordered?
As always, thanks in advance!
So, my only question now about this entire subject is: Where or what exact model replacement sub is best suited for a replacment? I can't find any 6ohm 8 inch subs anywhere online or searching. Does anyone know of a sub that is easly found or ordered?
As always, thanks in advance!
01-27-10, 12:08 PM
#139
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The choice below will allow you to wire it to 8 ohms, which is closer to the 12 ohm woofer we have. Also, sensitivity has not been mentioned. The higher the sensitivity, the louder and more efficient the woofer will work with low power applications. Most of the woofers I looked at had sensitivity of 84 to 87 db. This one is 90 db. I remember reading somewhere, when I used to sell car audio 15 years ago, every 3 db increase the volume doubles. Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong, it has been a long time.
Polk Audio MM840DVC
8" Dual 4 ohm Mobile Monitor MM Series Marine Certified Subwoofer (MM-840DVC, MM840DVC)
Each Purchase = 1 Brand New Sub!
Click to View Larger Images
Additional Photos 1-6 of 6 (click images to open larger)
Description
Features & Specs
Accessories
Store Policies
Item Condition: Brand New
Each Purchase is for 1 Subwoofer.
8" Dual 4 Ohm MM Series Subwoofer
Power Handling:
Peak: 500 watts
RMS: 250 watts
Polymer cone woofer
Butyl rubber surround
Advanced carbon composite basket will not flex during peaks
High-temperature copper voice coil and polyamide former
Klippel distortion analyzer optimizes the woofer's motor structure, voice coil alignment and suspension
Heavy duty input terminals
Sensitivity: 90 dB
1-year Sonic Electronix warranty
Product Summary
Manufacturer: Polk Audio
Model number: MM840DVC
UPC: 747192114565
Weight: 10.00 lbs
Internal SKU: mm840dvc
Internal Product ID: 18532
Polk Audio MM840DVC
8" Dual 4 ohm Mobile Monitor MM Series Marine Certified Subwoofer (MM-840DVC, MM840DVC)
Each Purchase = 1 Brand New Sub!
Click to View Larger Images
Additional Photos 1-6 of 6 (click images to open larger)
Description
Features & Specs
Accessories
Store Policies
Item Condition: Brand New
Each Purchase is for 1 Subwoofer.
8" Dual 4 Ohm MM Series Subwoofer
Power Handling:
Peak: 500 watts
RMS: 250 watts
Polymer cone woofer
Butyl rubber surround
Advanced carbon composite basket will not flex during peaks
High-temperature copper voice coil and polyamide former
Klippel distortion analyzer optimizes the woofer's motor structure, voice coil alignment and suspension
Heavy duty input terminals
Sensitivity: 90 dB
1-year Sonic Electronix warranty
Product Summary
Manufacturer: Polk Audio
Model number: MM840DVC
UPC: 747192114565
Weight: 10.00 lbs
Internal SKU: mm840dvc
Internal Product ID: 18532
01-27-10, 02:11 PM
#140
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So is this Polk solution DEFINITIVE?
Some of us are looking for a plug and play replacement...
Not looking for anything to SMOKE our amps with some weird ohm matching problem!
Not going to get "booty sweat bass" but will get a COMPARABLE sound to the original equipment.
And NO us newbophytes can't even rewire this in series!
Tell me what I need to tell the installer when I put this sub and $50 in his hand...
Can I get a hell yeah?
Not looking for anything to SMOKE our amps with some weird ohm matching problem!
Not going to get "booty sweat bass" but will get a COMPARABLE sound to the original equipment.
And NO us newbophytes can't even rewire this in series!
Tell me what I need to tell the installer when I put this sub and $50 in his hand...
Can I get a hell yeah?
Last edited by Mrgimme; 01-28-10 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Left out word
01-27-10, 03:05 PM
#141
again, there is NO 12 ohm subwoofer available on this planet. its a double 8 ohm woofer wired in series or a 16 ohm subwoofer. hard to find today.
a double 4 ohm woofer wired in series would result in a 8 ohm speaker measuring about 6.8 ohms. if it shuts down the amp (periodically or forever?) i dont know.
a double 4 ohm woofer wired in series would result in a 8 ohm speaker measuring about 6.8 ohms. if it shuts down the amp (periodically or forever?) i dont know.
04-04-10, 02:37 PM
#142
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I designed and built commercial/concert sound systems for twenty years and hope to shine a little light through the fog of this thread. The sub on my LS 430 started rattling which is what brought me here and I have gotten some very useful info on removal of the speaker so thanks! I hope my post will clear up a few things.
16 ohm speakers read about 12 on on a volt/ohm meter, 8 ohm rated reads 6 and 4 ohm rated reads 3 so hopefully that helps.
If the ML speaker reads 12 you need to replace it with a 16 ohm rated speaker, that would be 16 ohms per coil since it seems to be a dual coil speaker. They will be tricky to find so you could wire the speaker in series and use 1 channel of the amp but that cuts your power. Sub bass is never stereo so dual coils are just an installation convenience. An infinite baffle, 16 ohm per coil, 8" sub will be extra hard to find but that's what you need. If the ML speaker is a 16 ohm single coil then it's easy to find 8 ohm per coil, dual coil options and wire the inputs in series.
No one has mentioned re-coning. Speaker Exchange in Tampa does good work and were able to come up with 16 ohm coils for some ancient Cerwin Vega speakers I had to repair a few years ago but Google is your friend as there are plenty of other reconers. http://www.speakerex.com/
I'm trying the silicone adhesive although I see no tearing on mine. Rattles can develop where the voice coil support joins the cone and that will be impossible to fix without removal of the speaker.
16 ohm speakers read about 12 on on a volt/ohm meter, 8 ohm rated reads 6 and 4 ohm rated reads 3 so hopefully that helps.
If the ML speaker reads 12 you need to replace it with a 16 ohm rated speaker, that would be 16 ohms per coil since it seems to be a dual coil speaker. They will be tricky to find so you could wire the speaker in series and use 1 channel of the amp but that cuts your power. Sub bass is never stereo so dual coils are just an installation convenience. An infinite baffle, 16 ohm per coil, 8" sub will be extra hard to find but that's what you need. If the ML speaker is a 16 ohm single coil then it's easy to find 8 ohm per coil, dual coil options and wire the inputs in series.
No one has mentioned re-coning. Speaker Exchange in Tampa does good work and were able to come up with 16 ohm coils for some ancient Cerwin Vega speakers I had to repair a few years ago but Google is your friend as there are plenty of other reconers. http://www.speakerex.com/
I'm trying the silicone adhesive although I see no tearing on mine. Rattles can develop where the voice coil support joins the cone and that will be impossible to fix without removal of the speaker.
04-04-10, 05:06 PM
#143
There was a company in Tulsa (where I used to live) which reconed the oem subs. You dropped off the sub and it took them around 3 days to recondition the sub better than new. It cost around $125 but I knew it still wouldn't give me the deep bass that I wanted. Some others are fine with the sound though.
04-06-10, 11:49 AM
#144
Like was said before, if you are going to replace the factory sub with an aftermarket one and continue using the factory amp you need to have around the same load as the factory one. You need something very very efficient. Usually the less expensive, lower power subs are more efficient. If it's an 8ohm sub couldn't you put a 4ohm resistor to make it 12ohm??
04-07-10, 09:41 AM
#145
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I tried the silicone adhesive fix although I could not see any damage to the cone or foam surround. I worked it into all the glue joints with a Q-tip: surround to frame, surround to cone and cone to dust cover. Waited 24 hours and it worked... rattle gone! I don't play any 120 db, booty shakin' hip hop either so YMMV.
Had that not worked, I would have removed the speaker and sent it to Speaker Exchange in Tampa for a surround replacement. This is cheap and fixes the problem. Had the voice coil been blown only a full recone would do. Either way you retain the impedance and efficiency of the stock speaker
Had that not worked, I would have removed the speaker and sent it to Speaker Exchange in Tampa for a surround replacement. This is cheap and fixes the problem. Had the voice coil been blown only a full recone would do. Either way you retain the impedance and efficiency of the stock speaker
04-07-10, 09:47 AM
#146
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Like was said before, if you are going to replace the factory sub with an aftermarket one and continue using the factory amp you need to have around the same load as the factory one. You need something very very efficient. Usually the less expensive, lower power subs are more efficient. If it's an 8ohm sub couldn't you put a 4ohm resistor to make it 12ohm??
06-03-10, 12:46 PM
#147
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No one here mentioned the re-edge kit at http://reconekits.com/jbltoyota86160...msurround.aspx
If you want a more permanent fix than silicone or hot glue, this foam surround should work. I don't think speaker glue is necessary to do this, plain white Elmer's type glue should work just fine. Or you can remove the sub and let a local speaker shop install the edge for you.
If you want a more permanent fix than silicone or hot glue, this foam surround should work. I don't think speaker glue is necessary to do this, plain white Elmer's type glue should work just fine. Or you can remove the sub and let a local speaker shop install the edge for you.
06-20-10, 08:45 AM
#148
I tried the silicone adhesive fix although I could not see any damage to the cone or foam surround. I worked it into all the glue joints with a Q-tip: surround to frame, surround to cone and cone to dust cover. Waited 24 hours and it worked... rattle gone! I don't play any 120 db, booty shakin' hip hop either so YMMV.
Had that not worked, I would have removed the speaker and sent it to Speaker Exchange in Tampa for a surround replacement. This is cheap and fixes the problem. Had the voice coil been blown only a full recone would do. Either way you retain the impedance and efficiency of the stock speaker
Had that not worked, I would have removed the speaker and sent it to Speaker Exchange in Tampa for a surround replacement. This is cheap and fixes the problem. Had the voice coil been blown only a full recone would do. Either way you retain the impedance and efficiency of the stock speaker
06-20-10, 10:37 AM
#150
Just finished the silicone repair. I'll wait 24hrs, and report back.