costanza

Why do control arms have to replaced on these cars? I've changed bushings and shocks/springs, but not control arms (unless they are bent or cracked from a VERY hard impact!).

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Today I dropped the car off at LMS and they installed the lower ball joints and tie rod ends.
After thousands of miles with the clunk, I was hoping this would get it and so far, I think it has. The whole front feels firm and well dampened. Steering input is crisp and that slight looseness at highway speeds is gone.

I inspected the old lower ball joints and it is hard to tell. The rubber grease boot isn't in great
shape but the joint itself still feels "decent". It's not firm like the new ones but I don't detect any obvious play. The tie rod rubber grease boot has also seen better days.

For $450 install including parts, it is a welecomed fix. Also had the radiator fluid changed along with thermostat. Next will be the engine and tranny mounts with the timing chain, water pump and idler. Prolly another $1.1K.

Brandicus

iTrader: (6)

ouch, thats a pricey fix I for you

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Still have a faint sound from the right front. All the wear and opening tolerances play together, got the worst one in the lower ball joint but still more to fix. Not much left up there so I have a good idea what has to be done. I'll put some new sway bar bushings in and see.

If I put the stock wheels back on, I'd not likely hear a sound from the front end. The extra mass brings things out if there is some wear.

TJW98LS

iTrader: (1)

Man sorry to here that bro. I wouldn't like having to take the wheels off either. So was the wear that bad?

GRAND_LS 4

iTrader: (2)

Mike, I feel your pain. I've had very bad luck with my suspension in my previous car, and I kept replacing parts but with no results. To add insult to injury, suspension work isn’t easy or cheap. Hope you get it resolved.

Can you indentify where the noise is coming from?

RA40

iTrader: (6)

What has me anxious is alignments. If the tech knows his machine and car, it's not a big deal but alignment issues don't pop up till later. If you don't catch it soon enough, there go the tires.

Luckily all these fixes are producing positive results, just have some more $$$ to throw at it. At almost 100K miles, I suppose that is the price for the ride qualities. Even though it's lowered, the ride is still very good. I'm not going to do any more suspension stuff till the wallet recovers a bit. The faint noise is irritating because I know it's there but at least it's not clunking.

Grand- the noise is low which would put it at the lower arm bushing or sway bar bushing. I doubt the sway bar bushing and I checked the end link as well. Jacen at LMS relayed that the lower arm bushing should be good till about 180-200K miles but it varies.

qcruzer

I don't know if you are much into doing you're own work on your LS400, but if you need a rebuilt PS pump at a good price, Autozone has them for about $120-130. I put them in my 1990 and 1991 LS400's about a year ago and so far they are perfect. No hint of leaks at all, plus if they do leak, they have a lifetime warranty, so you just have to take them out and exchange them. (and no, I don't work for Autozone). Also, if you need a new "air-idler" valve (the black valve that the two vacuum hoses are connected to), you can find them at the local salvage yard. They are on early 1980's Supra's and Cressida's and even some Celica's and I don't think I paid more than a few dollars for them. If you still want a good challenge, you can change your own timing belt/water pump. I did mine from just following the service manual procedures and it took me an afternoon to complete it. Other than basic wrenches/tools, an impact wrench that puts out at least 400 ft/lbs is all that you need. Once you remove all the plastic coverings and radiator, there is a fair amount of room to work with....just my $0.02 worth, trying to save you money so you can spend it on the "fun" stuff....

Brian S

Sorry for the digging up an old post, but I was looking for info on clunking in my front end.

From the right front? You might want to check this post: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=22 I found a plastic connector hitting the plastic in the wheel well.

Since I had my brakes replaced, I've noticed a "clunking" in my front end. At first, I thought there was something amiss with my brakes, because it only seemed to do it when breaking. Gradually it has gotten louder and louder. It now "clunks" when brake, sometimes when accelerating, over certain bumps, and often when I turn. I'm guessing it is at least the ball joints.

When I had the other clunking issue described in the above link, Grand_LS 4 suggested replacing the following:
My now has about 112,000 miles on it. I don't think the ball joints or anything else has ever been replaced. I did lower my car last summer, and I think the vastly reduced suspension travel has sped up the deterioration of my suspension components.

I have yet to find a trusted mechanic in the area I have recently moved (Western Michigan), but when I do, can an honest mechanic assess exactly what needs to be replaced simply by looking at the condition of the parts?

Thanks,

Brian

RA40

iTrader: (6)

At 90K I did the lower ball joints and tie rod ends, this firmed up the steering qualities but after inspection, the removed parts were still pretty good. I'm going to replace the upper and lower control arm bushings pretty soon now that the bushings are available through Carson Toyota.

The cooler weather we have been having (relative to So. Cal) the car squeaks more on cold days.

Brian S

I've been doing some extensive ClubLexus forum reading on front end work. In fact, read up on a post I made asking if I should replace other stuff while lowering the car, and you had replied in that thread. For $$$ reasons, I decided not to replace ball joints, etc. at the time. I hope I am not now regretting that decision.

I got a pretty good vibe from a local import mechanic in the area, so I'm going to let him have a look at the car. He has been maintaining a customer's 2000 LS400 with 300,000, so hopefully that is a good indication. He says they have yet to replace the ball joints on that LS.

He quoted $100 a side to replace the ball joints, parts included. But he said they are going to have a better look and hopefully see exactly what is causing the clunk. Supposedly, he also has a listening device that he can attach to the parts to see exactly what is defective.

Brian

Lextreme

Mike,

You might want to consider replacing this one http://www.lextreme.com/strutbar.html

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Covered...did that too. After this next round, the front will have been freshened except for the strut mounts and upper ball joints.

smamas

Anyone have any experience replacing the strut rods on a 97 LS-400? It looks simple enough and it appears that you have to remove the shock absorber. If you do, it looks like you have to remove the upper ball joint? Any tips on this? What kind of load are the coil springs under when the suspension is suspended? I don't want the front end exploding when I remove the upper ball joint due to the spring load.

My 97 has 107K on it, and the struts feel fine, but maybe I should go ahead and replace struts since it since it is apart?

Any tips on this is appreciated! Thanks!

bicol-ini

try this part#48674-50051,hope this helps
also replacing the front struts you might need this strut bumper
part#48331-50060