Annoying Clunk Sound- Strut Bar (The Mother thread)
01-21-13, 05:00 PM
#241
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When my upper ball joints started to go and I driving the noise would come and go randomly. Sometimes it would brake smoothly other times it would vibrate and make noise. All you have to do is look and the answer your looking for should be right in front of your face. No amount of guessing is going to diagnose the issue.
01-27-13, 08:19 AM
#242
Front End Clunking - OEM Bushing Replacements
Ok, really not enjoying driving my first gen any longer due to the front end clunking 'chatter' when driving over potholes or on uneven roads.
I did read the mother thread on sway bar bushing replacement but that didn't answer my question as most of the posts related to modifying brackets to fit non OEM bushings, and that's not what I want to do. I want to use OEM bushings.
The thing is, I have had two people look over the front suspension (one person was lexus certified tech) and both tell me the suspension, including all the bushings, looks fine. The ball joints look fine (that was the first thing one of the guys checked).
Then I remembered reading a post (cannot find it now though) made here by someone who also had the front end clunking and his car's suspension and sway bar bushings looked fine too. He began replacing parts, including control arms, etc. etc. and sway bar end links,,.and he still had the clunking noise. It was AFTER he replaced the sway bar bushings that the noise stopped. So that is what I would like to try first. The strut rod bushings are more expensive (like $153 each) so I want to try replacing the sway bar bushings first. Someone else will have to do the work -- not me.
I found OEM sway bar bushings (the catalog says 'stabilizer bar bushings") online for $12 and a few cents each. Can someone please confirm there is only one bushing on each side? That that is allI need to order?
Also, is there any point in changing out the rear bushings at the same time? Those are slightly more -- $23 each. Not doing this for body roll issues, just to try to get rid of the clunking, so since the noise seems to be coming from the front end, no point in replacing the rear sway bar bushings, correct?.
I did read the mother thread on sway bar bushing replacement but that didn't answer my question as most of the posts related to modifying brackets to fit non OEM bushings, and that's not what I want to do. I want to use OEM bushings.
The thing is, I have had two people look over the front suspension (one person was lexus certified tech) and both tell me the suspension, including all the bushings, looks fine. The ball joints look fine (that was the first thing one of the guys checked).
Then I remembered reading a post (cannot find it now though) made here by someone who also had the front end clunking and his car's suspension and sway bar bushings looked fine too. He began replacing parts, including control arms, etc. etc. and sway bar end links,,.and he still had the clunking noise. It was AFTER he replaced the sway bar bushings that the noise stopped. So that is what I would like to try first. The strut rod bushings are more expensive (like $153 each) so I want to try replacing the sway bar bushings first. Someone else will have to do the work -- not me.
I found OEM sway bar bushings (the catalog says 'stabilizer bar bushings") online for $12 and a few cents each. Can someone please confirm there is only one bushing on each side? That that is allI need to order?
Also, is there any point in changing out the rear bushings at the same time? Those are slightly more -- $23 each. Not doing this for body roll issues, just to try to get rid of the clunking, so since the noise seems to be coming from the front end, no point in replacing the rear sway bar bushings, correct?.
01-27-13, 09:40 PM
#244
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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I'm positive that is what is wrong with your car. You cannot lube them to repair or stop the noise. The strut bars must be replaced, the bushings cannot be replaced alone. They are attatched to the lower control arm by two 19mm nuts, and then attatched forward of the control arms with a 22mm nut and a 24mm bolt, that is your caster adjustment. You can mark the eccentrics with white out to replace them in the exact same spot, however if an alignment has been done to your car with these same strut bars an alignment should be done after replacement.
I am 100% positive you need strut bars put on your car. Makes noise over potholes or driveway entry type bump, or rolling at a slow speed and tap the brakes suddenly a loud knocking noise is heard, and if you look at the front wheels they are actually moving approximately 3".
Good luck.
lextek
I am 100% positive you need strut bars put on your car. Makes noise over potholes or driveway entry type bump, or rolling at a slow speed and tap the brakes suddenly a loud knocking noise is heard, and if you look at the front wheels they are actually moving approximately 3".
Good luck.
lextek
01-28-13, 01:24 AM
#245
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For those of you from CA that just replaced the bushings, approximately how much did it cost to have a shop press-in the new bushings? It sounds like this would be straight forward and take about 5-10 minutes for 2 bushings.
02-03-13, 11:25 AM
#247
Driver School Candidate
Ok, really not enjoying driving my first gen any longer due to the front end clunking 'chatter' when driving over potholes or on uneven roads.
I did read the mother thread on sway bar bushing replacement but that didn't answer my question as most of the posts related to modifying brackets to fit non OEM bushings, and that's not what I want to do. I want to use OEM bushings.
The thing is, I have had two people look over the front suspension (one person was lexus certified tech) and both tell me the suspension, including all the bushings, looks fine. The ball joints look fine (that was the first thing one of the guys checked).
Then I remembered reading a post (cannot find it now though) made here by someone who also had the front end clunking and his car's suspension and sway bar bushings looked fine too. He began replacing parts, including control arms, etc. etc. and sway bar end links,,.and he still had the clunking noise. It was AFTER he replaced the sway bar bushings that the noise stopped. So that is what I would like to try first. The strut rod bushings are more expensive (like $153 each) so I want to try replacing the sway bar bushings first. Someone else will have to do the work -- not me.
I found OEM sway bar bushings (the catalog says 'stabilizer bar bushings") online for $12 and a few cents each. Can someone please confirm there is only one bushing on each side? That that is allI need to order?
Also, is there any point in changing out the rear bushings at the same time? Those are slightly more -- $23 each. Not doing this for body roll issues, just to try to get rid of the clunking, so since the noise seems to be coming from the front end, no point in replacing the rear sway bar bushings, correct?.
I did read the mother thread on sway bar bushing replacement but that didn't answer my question as most of the posts related to modifying brackets to fit non OEM bushings, and that's not what I want to do. I want to use OEM bushings.
The thing is, I have had two people look over the front suspension (one person was lexus certified tech) and both tell me the suspension, including all the bushings, looks fine. The ball joints look fine (that was the first thing one of the guys checked).
Then I remembered reading a post (cannot find it now though) made here by someone who also had the front end clunking and his car's suspension and sway bar bushings looked fine too. He began replacing parts, including control arms, etc. etc. and sway bar end links,,.and he still had the clunking noise. It was AFTER he replaced the sway bar bushings that the noise stopped. So that is what I would like to try first. The strut rod bushings are more expensive (like $153 each) so I want to try replacing the sway bar bushings first. Someone else will have to do the work -- not me.
I found OEM sway bar bushings (the catalog says 'stabilizer bar bushings") online for $12 and a few cents each. Can someone please confirm there is only one bushing on each side? That that is allI need to order?
Also, is there any point in changing out the rear bushings at the same time? Those are slightly more -- $23 each. Not doing this for body roll issues, just to try to get rid of the clunking, so since the noise seems to be coming from the front end, no point in replacing the rear sway bar bushings, correct?.
I don't want to lower is or get a firmer ride, just back to OEM is fine. I'll spring for the KYBs, but I'm a little cornfuzzled by the available parts. Take a look at the screenshot of the cart on PartsGeek, and help me understand... What is the difference between a strut and a shock? I know that sounds stupid to ask, because as far as I know, a car can't have both.
Which ones do I buy???
02-03-13, 02:18 PM
#249
Driver School Candidate
So you're saying the one listed as an Excel-G is the one I ought to buy?
02-04-13, 08:49 AM
#252
Guys, just want to share this with everyone who have been hearing these clunking sounds, it work for me and wouldn't hurt to tried before going out replacing,strut bar,upper or lower control arm etc.
So I have a 99 with about 92,000 mile I like everyone else have these annoying clunking sounds over bumps and driving down driveway. So I started replacing the strut rod bushing which usually is the most common culprit but diidnt really fix the problems, I was thinking possibly having to do the lower control arm, so I didn't tackle that, drove around for couple of months with this annoying clunking sounds when I go over bumps. Last weekend I pop the black rubber covering that covers the bolt on the two front suspension when you open the hood and tighten the bolts one on each side, and holy ****, low and behold the dam clucking noise was totally gone, I notice my suspension is a little firmer but that annoyoing noise is gone. So before repacing anything try tighten the bolts one on each side of the front suspension when you open the hood, just pop that black rubber covering off and tightening the bolts down, it work for me maybe will help cure your clucking noise as well. Good luck
So I have a 99 with about 92,000 mile I like everyone else have these annoying clunking sounds over bumps and driving down driveway. So I started replacing the strut rod bushing which usually is the most common culprit but diidnt really fix the problems, I was thinking possibly having to do the lower control arm, so I didn't tackle that, drove around for couple of months with this annoying clunking sounds when I go over bumps. Last weekend I pop the black rubber covering that covers the bolt on the two front suspension when you open the hood and tighten the bolts one on each side, and holy ****, low and behold the dam clucking noise was totally gone, I notice my suspension is a little firmer but that annoyoing noise is gone. So before repacing anything try tighten the bolts one on each side of the front suspension when you open the hood, just pop that black rubber covering off and tightening the bolts down, it work for me maybe will help cure your clucking noise as well. Good luck
Last edited by anesthesia; 02-04-13 at 09:17 AM.
02-04-13, 09:01 AM
#253
Driver School Candidate
Guys, just want to share this with everyone who have been hearing these clunking sounds, it work for me and wouldn't hurt to tried before going out replacing,strut bar,upper or lower control arm.
So I have a 99 with about 92,000 mile I like everyone else have these annoying clunking sounds over bumps and driving down driveway. So I started replacing the rod bearing, but diidnt really fix the problems, I was thinking possibly having to do the lower control arm, so I didn't tackle that, drove around for couple of months with this annoying clunking sounds when I go over bumps. Last weekend I pop the black rubber covering that covers the bolt on the two front suspension when you open the hood and tighten the bolts one on each side, and holy ****, low and behold the dam clucking noise was totally gone, I notice my suspension is a little firmer but that annoyoing noise is gone. So before repacing anything try tighten the bolts one on each side of the front suspension when you open the hood, just pop that black rubber covering off and tightening the bolts down, it work for me maybe will help cure your clucking noise as well. Good luck
So I have a 99 with about 92,000 mile I like everyone else have these annoying clunking sounds over bumps and driving down driveway. So I started replacing the rod bearing, but diidnt really fix the problems, I was thinking possibly having to do the lower control arm, so I didn't tackle that, drove around for couple of months with this annoying clunking sounds when I go over bumps. Last weekend I pop the black rubber covering that covers the bolt on the two front suspension when you open the hood and tighten the bolts one on each side, and holy ****, low and behold the dam clucking noise was totally gone, I notice my suspension is a little firmer but that annoyoing noise is gone. So before repacing anything try tighten the bolts one on each side of the front suspension when you open the hood, just pop that black rubber covering off and tightening the bolts down, it work for me maybe will help cure your clucking noise as well. Good luck
I replaced all the front suspension stuff because most it was really needed - especially the lower ball joints and the LCA bushings. The alignment shop wouldn't align it the way it was, and let me under the car to see the slop in the parts. I found a local shop that only works on Lexus. The owner is a former Lexus dealer mechanic, now out on his own, and his prices are more than fair.
Also, at 145k, the struts are (AFAIK) near or past end-of-life, so I'm doing all four with new mounts. I want it to ride like the day it was built. When it's all done, I'm good for another 150k+.
04-02-13, 04:42 PM
#254
Any advice on clocking the new OEM bushings? About to tackle this tomorrow. New strut bar bushings came in today. Tips on where to mark for caster alignment during removal? Thanks!
04-02-13, 06:13 PM
#255
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I actually used a sharpie to mark mine and got them pretty much back into the correct alignment when done. Your car looks to be a lot lower than mine
so being on a rack or placing the car on cinders might be your best option for tightening the nuts/bolts under load. Tightening them in the air will eat them up down the road.Review said to get it aligned but I haven't gotten there yet which is my bad. I plan on doing it once I do the motor mounts because of the potential control arm removal. I can tell my inside tread is wearing faster than outside so I am paying for my own sins!
Trying to think of other stuff.....getting the arm back into place was fun because you really have to force it to line back up in the holes. Not bad though and 1000000% worth it. I was sooooooo sick of that damn clunk. I still hear it every now and then (maybe once a week) so something else is probably needing replacement.
GL!