LsG86

I tried searching but couldn't find nothing fast enough. OK I just drop the transmission pan and cleaned it. I only used a few pro gasket. I just put 2 quarts of atf and the gasket is leaking, I think I tighten the bolts too tight, matter of fact I know I tighten them to thight. Do I need a new gasket? Any advice would be appreciated. I do have some red high temp sealant. BTW its leaking from the rear, car is still on ramps.

Stroock639

i would get a new gasket and a torque wrench if you don't already (i hope you didn't just tighten each bolt until it felt tight). even with a fel pro gasket a bit of sealer should still be applied, and make sure to torque each bolt to EXACTLY the same specs. also the next bolt that you tighten should be the one directly across from the one you just tightened, to balance out the forces as best as possible. ideally every bolt would be torqued down at exactly the same time but not all of us have 19 socket wrenches...

also very important, make sure that the drain plug is not over tightened because it can strip the bolt or washer on the inside of the pan, and preferably put a new crush washer in there to replace the old one (part is 35178-30010)

i'd wait for one of the Lexus Champions to chime in and see if their wisdom can drizzle over our posts

dicer

What kind of material is the gasket made of? As far as I know the factory used just an RTV for the gasket, I don't like doing that for an automatic transmission, when using it everything the stuff contacts has to be perfectly clean of any kind of oil's. Rubber gaskets make it easy to distort the pan and really never allow the bolts to tighten good.

LsG86

Okay I already have a new gasket. I have a torque wrench but its 10-150 ft lbs. I didn't know about the torque pattern until I read your post, thanks. Having a hard time finding a torque wrench in inches. I did torque the drain bolt to 15 lbs and replaced the washer.

Its a Fel-Pro gasket mabey rubber material, got it from AZ. I prefer that over sealant, less mess and easier to work with.

MngreLMatt

LSG, it is very easy to over-torque the transmission pan bolts. a great rule of thumb is to get them all started by finger in a star pattern. When it comes to tightening them, it really pays to have a torque wrench or experience with low torque settings like this. Mind you, with the Fel-Pro gasket you are also working against the added resistance of the rubber gasket. Raising the proper torque rating to get the pan sealed correctly a tincey wincey bit more. INCH-pounds keep in mind. The torque settings were designed for RTV or Fixed In Place Gasket (FIPG). The toyota FIPG is really the best thing to use, although not the most practical once off of the assembly line. As discussed in length in other similar threads, once the Transmission Fluid is added to the assembly and the pan is removed it is relatively impossible to get two perfectly clean mating surfaces. Especially when you have trouble lining up the bottom and top fill tubes like I did.

The Fel-Pro gasket you used is OK. If you over-torqued the bolts you may very well have stripped out the threads on the Valve Body ( What you are connecting the pan to with the bolts). If this is the case, your best bet is the Heli-Coil the valve body threads and get some more bolts from your nearest Toyota/Lexus dealership as well as, but not limited to ...http://lexus.sewellparts.com/

A decent trick to get started if you have to is to, like previously stated, hand tighten each one then give it an 1/8th to 1/4th turn to snug them down. Again, following your star pattern. If you aren't confident with snugging down bolts with such a low torque rating - don't worry not many of us are . All kidding aside, take your time, and always error on the side of not snugging down quite enough as it is much easier to tighten a hair more than it is to fix the red-headed stepchild of all handy work; stripping threads and bolts.

Hope this can help a little. I'm not a mechanic even by the most healthy imaginations. I've been in your spot before and I want to help, regardless of how minuscule it may be.

If anyone, sees anything majorly wrong with what I wrote, please correct me. I am here to learn.


Thank You

Matt

LsG86

Matt, thank you sir! I think you're right on the money. I just found a torque wrench at harbor freight that does 20-200 inches lbs. Torque the bolts to 65in lbs along with the cross pattern I think everything will work this time. I'll report back when done.

dicer

I just went to a transmission shop and got a pan gasket it is made from gasket material NOT RUBBER, a rubber one came with the filter kit, do not use rubber. This gasket seems to have a bit of sticky feeling stuff on it so it should not need a sealer.

LsG86

Okay it's still leaking.. I torque the bolts to 65 in lbs in the cross pattern. I put 1 1/2 quarts no leaks, but after that it starts to leak. Keep in mind I'm doing this with the front of the car still on the ramps. Should I back the car off ramps first then add fluid so it will be on level surface?

LsG86

Okay it stopped leaking. Two things, 1 the car was not on level surface and 2, it was not running as I was adding atf. As soon as I crank the car and back off the ramps the atf stop leaking. I watching under the car for leaks. So far the car warmed up and there are only two small drops on ground.

dicer

That is a RUBBER gasket you have there. Good luck, the bolts will not stay tight, and over tightening will dimple the pan rail.

bgalarpe

I would redo the pan if I were you because I think the pan is warped. Remove the pan and check if it is flat if so straighten it and I use RTV to seal it. I usually put blue lock tight on the bolts so it wont get loose after you torque it.

LsG86

Its still leaking atf. There was puddle of atf on ground, at least a quart drip out on floor. I am thinking the pan might be warped, if so how would I fix this? I read you can use a hammer(mabey a rubber mallet) and socket to straighten everything out. That would be my last resort.

Would one corner bolt on the pan not fully tightened cause atf to leak like this? There is one corner bolt on driver side by the bracket, I believe is not fully tight due to I can't get a socket on it to torque it.

My Indy shop wants $300 to drop pan, replace fluid and filter, and gasket but I would rather fix this myself. I plan to get under the car and tight that one corner bolt and make sure all the bolts are torque before I drop the pan again for a 3rd time.
Last question, if I drop the pan should I use another feel pro gasket and should I put red rtv or lock tight on the bolt threads? Any advice or tip is greatly appreciated. BTW that rubber gasket I'm using is NOT sticky at all.

dicer

A rubber gasket will always leak. You need one that is made from an ALMOST cardboard like material. Go to a transmission shop and buy one. I paid $5.00 for mine. So it should not cost more than that. As a last resort if you do RTV use something like Ultra Gray or other color, and super clean the oil off any place it is to touch. You will need to let it sit and drip for 4 hours or so before trying to clean it. Wipe everything off good and either use brake clean or rubbing alcohol to get the oil off the pan and trans rails.

bgalarpe

Funny I just did my filter and fluid replacement...remove the pan and use a straight edge or flat bar to check the pan. If it is bent then a hammer and a block of 2x4 to flatten what is bent on a flat surface.... like i said I used RTV or permatex to seal the pan just give it about 15 to 30 mins to skin and install with loc-tight on the bolts and torque it.

LsG86

OK I was able fix my leaking gasket. The pan was warped badly, to fix it I just use a deep 9/16 socket and a 16 oz hammer from harbor freight and just tapped on all the holes til they were flush. I used NO sealant, just the Fel Pro gasket alone and no leaks, not a single drop of atf on ground. I did not want use the hammer method but it was that or buy a new pan. Also I hand tighten the bolts in criss cross pattern and torque them to 55inch lbs. If I see any atf drops on the ground, I'll torque the bolts to 60 in lbs then 65 if necessary but so far no leaks or seepage.

This is how I fix my warped pan. Notice how flat the rail is after I used the hammer



Here's how bad my pan was warped before I went to work on it. Notice how the holes are raised upwards.