DK Audio

Starting last fall I would get a click when turning my ignition, I would try again and it would crank fine. Battery is Duralast Gold, about a year old. It is now getting worse and worse, seems like if it sits for a while it always clicks. This week it probably clicked15 times just going to and from work, worried I'm going to get stranded somewhere.

Anyways, I called the shop I use. He said about $400 labor and he can get a rebuilt OEM from NAPA, 3 year warranty for $230. + Gaskets, O-rings, coolant, etc. Probably looking around $700, ugh! I was going to do it myself until I saw many threads from very experienced DIY'ers saying they would never do it again.

He is so busy I am dropping it off Tuesday the 20th.

I also am throwing codes PO420 and PO430, catalyst efficiency below threshold. I tried looking for exhaust leaks myself and didn't find any. He is going to look at this too, I pray it is not my cats.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

I think the starter is a very doable job as long as your comfortable with a wrench and socket. IMO the starter is easier than the timing belt job. The most time consuming part is getting the bolt out and I'm not exaggerating either. I bought a Denso OEM from Amazon but it was even cheaper at Rockauto.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

Starters on the 98-2000 LS's is one of the easiest big jobs you can do.. mine was done in July of 2010 and only needed the solenoid contacts... I have had two of mine done (by my nephew who has also done 3 others) and has never had to replace the starter, only the contacts.. it takes him about 4 hours without hurrying and it is just an R&R operation...I am in my 80's and I could still do it if I had too (but it would take me much longer because of pain... ) I know how, but I cant walk or stand very good anymore..

JacketJet

It cost me almost twice that amount to have it done by the Lexus dealership.

DK Audio

Hmm, these are very different answers than what I found by searching. I did the timing belt job with a friend a few years ago, I read that this was way harder. Another issue is it has been -5F out recently and I have no heated space to wrench.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it is kind of too cold to turn a wrench unless absolutely necessary! I have a rear stabilizer link waiting in the wings.

randal

You are hearing different answers to the complexity of the job because each has his own "threshold of pain" when it comes to repairs.
The job is certainly not trivial. However, if you could do the timing belt (also not trivial), you could do the starter as well. Now, what Billy is talking about is a much simpler route to go and may be fine for you. He does not actually remove the entire starter, just the back end to get the solenoid contacts for replacement. Taking the starter completely out is a more difficult task. Your contacts are what are really worn so you could probably just replace those and be done with it.

Regardless, you still have to remove the intake manifold and a bunch of fuel injector wiring connectors to get in there. Not the easiest job but do-able with patience.

So, the answer to the complexity lies somewhere in between those who say they would never do it again and those that consider it easy.

As for the P0420 and P0430 codes, you might check for pinhole leaks in the exhaust header pipes leading to the cats. There is a heat shield in that area that allow pinholes of rust-thru in the pipe. That diversion of exhaust gas confuses the ecu into thinking the cats are not performing properly. That may or may not be your issue but just check for leaks very carefully before going and replacing those cats.

DK Audio

Since I made this thread my starter hasn't clicked once, been working fine! Frustrating, I'm starting to question if it was really going out. I don't want to pay this huge bill if i don't have to, can definitely use the money for something else.

Yamae

Judging from your symptom, the copper conductor is close to the end of the life. I hope you will not have a problem at a middle of nowhere. As far as I know, most of foreign objects at the copper conductor are blown away due to the big current, and the current can go through. The intermittent starting failure is the sign of worn copper conductor. Once the connection is not good enough, the generated heat melts the copper and the problem becomes more serious quickly.

randal

I want to caution you about being lulled into a false sense of security. From all the symptoms described in this thread, your starter needs attention soon. Fail to address it and wham...when you least expect it..No start. A shot has been fired over the bow (clicking), it is up to you to pick the time and place and cost, else your starter will do it for you.

DK Audio

I was actually hoping to hear that because I didn't want to cancel my appointment since he was a week and a half out. Will move forward with getting it replaced. It's strange this thing has held on since early last fall.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Good call. You don't want to be stuck somewhere with the temps dropping so low.

Screwhead

I have the same yr n model in this is EXACTLY what mine does. It just clicks wen i turn the ignition plus Ill go a few days with it starting fine then itll start giving me problems for like 2 days then go back to normal ?? Idk if it is actually my starter because this has been going on for atleast 6 months n i thought it would have given out already ? I know how u feel about dropping a lot of money if were not 100% sure if it actually is the starter . I read a thread that this might also be the ecu ..

randal

It could be your starter relay but not likely. Still it would not be a bad idea to check the relay. Failing to crank is not the ECU if you are hearing the click of the starter solenoid contacts coming together. That is where you need to determine that the solenoid is being powered. Easy to do.

DK Audio

That is a fear of mine that the starter isn't even the issue, it does seem odd, I remember the day it first happened, it was actually July 12th! That was over 6 months ago. Too late for me I guess, he has my car, started working on it today. I just got off the phone with him and he said he got new intake gaskets but the way the starter is mounted (from the backside) he needs to take off some more stuff to access the bolts which will require 2 more gaskets and an o-ring. Only Lexus has them and cannot get them until tomorrow, there are no aftermarket gaskets for these items.