DIY negative camber setup w/ adjustable megan arms
12-31-14, 10:55 AM
#18
So your adding negative camber because you like the way it looks and not because you need it so your quarter panels dont destroy your tires? 
we are just providing you positive criticism since it looks really bad with such a sunken look. I see this trend now with Hondas and stupid negative camber on stock wheels.
we are just providing you positive criticism since it looks really bad with such a sunken look. I see this trend now with Hondas and stupid negative camber on stock wheels.
12-31-14, 12:36 PM
#20
So your adding negative camber because you like the way it looks and not because you need it so your quarter panels dont destroy your tires?
we are just providing you positive criticism since it looks really bad with such a sunken look. I see this trend now with Hondas and stupid negative camber on stock wheels.
we are just providing you positive criticism since it looks really bad with such a sunken look. I see this trend now with Hondas and stupid negative camber on stock wheels.
12-31-14, 01:08 PM
#21
Alright well it's not so much a correction as it is just a heads up. If you're going to string align your car, you can not tape string to your car and expect to get accurate numbers. You need to fixed reference points outside of the car to measure to in order to get accurate numbers for your toe and for your camber.
Also you cannot tighten the bolts for the suspension component that uses a rubber bushing while the car is in the air and the suspension is in droop. This tears apart the bushings when you go to lower the car and load up the suspension. Additionally, you cannot make adjustments on the ground at expect to get accurate numbers without either unloading the tension in the tires by rolling the car back and forth while bouncing the suspension and turning the steering wheel from side to side. If you have slider plates then you wouldn't need to move the car as much you just need to bounce the suspension.
As far as your method for adjustment goes, quite often with cheap arms like Meagans the adjusters are in bad positions so it's often better to do your major course adjustments on the arms and leave the factory adjustment points for doing your precise adjustments on the rack.
I know a lot of people who do their own sting alignment at home, and I have done a ton at the track, so I'm not saying you can't do it; you just need to go about it with a much different methodology. Google string alignment systems and plumb measurement methods. With a little basic math and a lot of time initially, you can figure out a way to do end up doing it quite accurately and quickly with practice.
Also you cannot tighten the bolts for the suspension component that uses a rubber bushing while the car is in the air and the suspension is in droop. This tears apart the bushings when you go to lower the car and load up the suspension. Additionally, you cannot make adjustments on the ground at expect to get accurate numbers without either unloading the tension in the tires by rolling the car back and forth while bouncing the suspension and turning the steering wheel from side to side. If you have slider plates then you wouldn't need to move the car as much you just need to bounce the suspension.
As far as your method for adjustment goes, quite often with cheap arms like Meagans the adjusters are in bad positions so it's often better to do your major course adjustments on the arms and leave the factory adjustment points for doing your precise adjustments on the rack.
I know a lot of people who do their own sting alignment at home, and I have done a ton at the track, so I'm not saying you can't do it; you just need to go about it with a much different methodology. Google string alignment systems and plumb measurement methods. With a little basic math and a lot of time initially, you can figure out a way to do end up doing it quite accurately and quickly with practice.
Last edited by Shmee; 12-31-14 at 01:12 PM.
12-31-14, 01:20 PM
#22
I think it's more, "excessive camber for the sake of excessive camber = wtf"
If you are doing it for clearance reasons, which happens to be where the trend started in the first place, then that is sort of the whole point. If you are doing it to get measurements that will allow you to push your fitments, that's generally cool too.
I think it's just a bit of a disconnect between some people and others who are ardent purists and elitists. Form follows function, so if your form follows no function then that's where you'll see a lot of the "WTF?!" Type of comments.
12-31-14, 03:01 PM
#24
I though it looked weird without the wheels being flush also. I figured the OP was getting it ready for some wheels that could not fit. If you like the wheels like that then more power to you but you did post it in a public forum... Just enjoy your car and happy new year.
12-31-14, 03:02 PM
#26
Alright well it's not so much a correction as it is just a heads up. If you're going to string align your car, you can not tape string to your car and expect to get accurate numbers. You need to fixed reference points outside of the car to measure to in order to get accurate numbers for your toe and for your camber.
Also you cannot tighten the bolts for the suspension component that uses a rubber bushing while the car is in the air and the suspension is in droop. This tears apart the bushings when you go to lower the car and load up the suspension. Additionally, you cannot make adjustments on the ground at expect to get accurate numbers without either unloading the tension in the tires by rolling the car back and forth while bouncing the suspension and turning the steering wheel from side to side. If you have slider plates then you wouldn't need to move the car as much you just need to bounce the suspension.
As far as your method for adjustment goes, quite often with cheap arms like Meagans the adjusters are in bad positions so it's often better to do your major course adjustments on the arms and leave the factory adjustment points for doing your precise adjustments on the rack.
I know a lot of people who do their own sting alignment at home, and I have done a ton at the track, so I'm not saying you can't do it; you just need to go about it with a much different methodology. Google string alignment systems and plumb measurement methods. With a little basic math and a lot of time initially, you can figure out a way to do end up doing it quite accurately and quickly with practice.
Also you cannot tighten the bolts for the suspension component that uses a rubber bushing while the car is in the air and the suspension is in droop. This tears apart the bushings when you go to lower the car and load up the suspension. Additionally, you cannot make adjustments on the ground at expect to get accurate numbers without either unloading the tension in the tires by rolling the car back and forth while bouncing the suspension and turning the steering wheel from side to side. If you have slider plates then you wouldn't need to move the car as much you just need to bounce the suspension.
As far as your method for adjustment goes, quite often with cheap arms like Meagans the adjusters are in bad positions so it's often better to do your major course adjustments on the arms and leave the factory adjustment points for doing your precise adjustments on the rack.
I know a lot of people who do their own sting alignment at home, and I have done a ton at the track, so I'm not saying you can't do it; you just need to go about it with a much different methodology. Google string alignment systems and plumb measurement methods. With a little basic math and a lot of time initially, you can figure out a way to do end up doing it quite accurately and quickly with practice.
01-01-15, 06:28 PM
#27
Alright well it's not so much a correction as it is just a heads up. If you're going to string align your car, you can not tape string to your car and expect to get accurate numbers. You need to fixed reference points outside of the car to measure to in order to get accurate numbers for your toe and for your camber.
Also you cannot tighten the bolts for the suspension component that uses a rubber bushing while the car is in the air and the suspension is in droop. This tears apart the bushings when you go to lower the car and load up the suspension. Additionally, you cannot make adjustments on the ground at expect to get accurate numbers without either unloading the tension in the tires by rolling the car back and forth while bouncing the suspension and turning the steering wheel from side to side. If you have slider plates then you wouldn't need to move the car as much you just need to bounce the suspension.
As far as your method for adjustment goes, quite often with cheap arms like Meagans the adjusters are in bad positions so it's often better to do your major course adjustments on the arms and leave the factory adjustment points for doing your precise adjustments on the rack.
I know a lot of people who do their own sting alignment at home, and I have done a ton at the track, so I'm not saying you can't do it; you just need to go about it with a much different methodology. Google string alignment systems and plumb measurement methods. With a little basic math and a lot of time initially, you can figure out a way to do end up doing it quite accurately and quickly with practice.
Also you cannot tighten the bolts for the suspension component that uses a rubber bushing while the car is in the air and the suspension is in droop. This tears apart the bushings when you go to lower the car and load up the suspension. Additionally, you cannot make adjustments on the ground at expect to get accurate numbers without either unloading the tension in the tires by rolling the car back and forth while bouncing the suspension and turning the steering wheel from side to side. If you have slider plates then you wouldn't need to move the car as much you just need to bounce the suspension.
As far as your method for adjustment goes, quite often with cheap arms like Meagans the adjusters are in bad positions so it's often better to do your major course adjustments on the arms and leave the factory adjustment points for doing your precise adjustments on the rack.
I know a lot of people who do their own sting alignment at home, and I have done a ton at the track, so I'm not saying you can't do it; you just need to go about it with a much different methodology. Google string alignment systems and plumb measurement methods. With a little basic math and a lot of time initially, you can figure out a way to do end up doing it quite accurately and quickly with practice.
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