Sanpete

I've got the error code for the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor (P0135), so it appears the thing to do is to replace it. Unfortunately, it appears I won't be able to do that before I drive 650 miles to southern California.

If that's crazy, now's the time to tell me. And if anything else I say is nuts, or you have advice, please advise.

In reading up on this, if I've understood right, I won't need ramps but can access the sensor under the carpet on the driver's side. I'll need to pop off the gas pedal, which I hope to find out more about before I try it, as I'd like to also be able to get it back on.

I'll use a Denso 234-4169 replacement from Amazon.

The tools I'll need are a socket wrench (what size?) with an O2 sensor socket. Not sure yet what tools I'll need to get access to the sensor, but I'm guessing I'll need a wrench or two, don't know what sizes.

Am I missing anything?

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Sensor 1 is underneath the car right before the catalytic converter on the drivers side. Jack up the car on that side and remove the under covers and it's right there.

Sanpete

Thanks. The only jack I have is the little thing that came with the car. Not sure I'd want to get under the car with that, but maybe if I can get a better jack I might. Can I access the sensor from inside the car?

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

i don't think you will see any adverse effects of the bad sensor on your drive. probably just poor MPGs but will probably be so minute you won't notice overall. do take care of it when you can.
more: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...l-mileage.html

you will still need to get under the car to get to the sensor, so ramps and/or jack with jackstands are a must here unless a lift is available. the sensor is located on the exhaust system on the driver's side header before the catalytic converter. it is hard to get to so be aware!

driver side is the bottom pair of sensors, marked (front).


the lifting of the carpet is for the rear sensor, or sensor 2 downstream sensor.
you will need a 3/8" drive wrench with an 7/8" O2 socket (which can be rented at autozone for free). O2 sockets have a special provision to allow the socket to go over the wiring of the sensor.

Sanpete

Thanks t0t. I think I've noticed some drop in mileage when the engine is cold, but not when warm yet. I noticed the RPMs had dropped for the same speed yesterday, and that the MPG had gone up, didn't know what to make of that.

Guess I'll have to borrow a jack. And I'll check on something to loosen the threads, as you suggested in the other thread.

Surprised to see the tool sizes in inches. Thought this thing was all metric!

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

no problem! the O2 sensor is in metric, 22mm to be exact, but most shops will only have a 7/8" socket. the same goes with the spark plugs, mostly a standard size.

Scratchy

there's a good chance you'll round it off with a 7/8". if I was replacing it anyway, I'd just break the top off the old sensor and throw a 22mm socket on the remaining part, then tighten the new one with the 7/8".

Sanpete

Thanks guys. If it looks like the wrench won't turn the sensor without slipping, I'll try your suggestion, Scratchy.

AHJ

These are the tools I used to get the sensor out from the passengers side.

I sprayed the penetrating oil about half an hour before.

The extension is about 2 ft long and gave the right torque. I might use the money I saved to buy a breaker bar or a torque-multiplier.

Sanpete

Nice extender, AJH! Two feet, that sensor must be a ways in.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

length is more for leverage than to reach the sensor. definitely spray penetrating lubricant on the threads prior to starting. i like using PB blaster myself!

Sanpete

Thanks, t0t. I've put release agent on my list. I'll see what the smallest size of PB Blaster is . . . Hopefully I won't need that much leverage after it soaks in.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

really depends on the exhaust condition. being in sunny southern california my car probably never saw snow so the exhaust was decent. if any road salt or snow was on your car, corrosion will be prominent. the lube should work to ease removal!

AHJ

Thanks. It was made for attaching a motor to a canoe but it did this job superbly.

I had the car jacked up from just under the passenger door with a supporting stand behind it and another stand under the frame but I am still nervous being under the car specially while pulling away with all my strength. While I was fitting in the socket and ratchet, my head was right under the rotor. This extender located the pushing to a safe place outside the wheel well.

Sanpete

Ordered the part and a couple tools today. Hoping 1 foot of leverage will be enough (after some penetrating oil), will have a 22mm socket on hand to remove the old one.

Thanks to all for the tips!