pyr8

About 2 weeks ago I went to start my car after not driving it for 4 days or so, it would turn over, but wouldn't start.

I ended up killing the battery trying to start it. I managed to get a boost, tried cranking it over for another 5 minutes and got it running.

During this time, the car felt like it was starved for fuel, and would sputter like it wanted to go, but would just die again.

It has been running daily for the past 2 weeks, with one or two times where the car took 3 or 4 tries to get the car to start with intermittent sputtering issues only on start-up...not while driving.

Last night the car died and has stayed dead after sitting for 2 days.

Things I have done so far to troubleshoot:

1. No codes being thrown by ECU
2. Swapped ECU's & visually inspected internals components (to eliminate bad CAP's) Car wont start
3. Tested "Fuel Pump Relay" (result = working)
4. Tested "Circuit Opening Relay" (result = working)
4. Ran jumper from "FP to +B" to bypass (result = fuel pump runs when ignition key is turned to "on" - reading 11.4v to 11.6V at fuel pump connectors - Car wont start
5. Tested "Fuel Pump Resistor" (result = reading high at 1.0 Ohm) Could this be the issue....is there a way to test without replacing the resistor???

Things I noticed:

1. When not jumpered (FP to +B) and ignition in the "on" position, I don't hear the fuel pump run initially at all. Only when I jumper, do I hear the pump. Car still wont start

This is my daily driver and I'm hosed until I can get mobile as I live rurally with the closest town 30 minutes away.

cobalt91

Have you tried starting fluid? This will verify spark and timing.

pyr8

Hey cobalt,

I don't have any starting fluid specifically...can I use throttle body or carb cleaner safely?

cobalt91

I dont think those will work. Could some one else chime in ?

pyr8

Tried to start it with some air intake cleaner and no go.

Looks like a spark issue I guess....now where to start?????

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

spark plug condition? also check the spark coils for any bad or pinched wiring. it sometimes gets pinched during timing belt changes.

pyr8

Pulled all 8 plugs out one at a time and inspected them. Each was wet with gas, so the fuel pump is working?

As I pulled each plug out, I grounded the plug to the battery terminal while the plug was inserted into the wires coming off the distributor and cranked the car. Each of the 8 plugs sparked, so I'm getting spark as well.

I'm lost and ready to fire bomb my car!

pyr8

Anyone!?!??!

dicer

Compression test is next. And clean plugs and good fuel.

Nelexus88

The fuel pump may be running but not providing the correct pressure to the injectors. You need to check the fuel pressure next. That requires a special gauge that connects to the fuel rail on the engine. Not sure what the pressure specs are for your car but 40-50 psi is common. You may be able to "rent" a gauge and connector from the auto parts store since you most likely dont own one.

Did you fuel up shortly before the problem started? If so, you may have gotten some bad gas.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

it could be wet from the intake cleaner? that stuff should evaporate rather quickly, just like gasoline. hopefully it's not water!

i second the compression test, if fuel and spark are ruled out. was the fuel pump ever replaced?

cobalt91

You have fuel and spark. Now check timing. Take the mark on the balancer to zero. Then check the alignment marks on the cams.

pyr8

I have made progress, but still having issues.

I went to NAPA today and got a new set of plugs for the car. Swapped all 8 plugs with new ones and the car, after 5 or 6 tries started.

Now, the car starts every time the first time....but...the car will idle (with some hesitation thrown in once in a while) for as long as i leave it running, however when I give it gas, the engine will rev, then die when I take my foot off the gas.

I have also noticed that the tachometer is not reading the correct RPM, however it has been that way for a few months now (just stopped reading the correct RMP one day).

I have since swapped the Blitz ECU with the stock OEM ECU, same Tach issue!

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

glad the car started! so the car stalls after being revved? that's an idle control valve problem, fairly easy fix by cleaning it.

at idle, what does the tach read?

pyr8

The tach reads zero at high idle when the car is started cold and remains there unless I pin the gas. At 5000 RPM (approximately) the tach reads 3000 RPM. It as if its sticking.