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I've been reading threads and there is lots of good information, but my symptoms seem different, although I just acquired the car so that could be part of it.
I test drove and purchased a 96 LS 400 with 135,000 miles. About 100 miles after I drove off, I noticed a creaking when I turned the wheel left or right. It was noticeable at slow speeds, was persistent, and I knew I wouldn't have missed it during the test drive.
I drove it home to take a look.
The sound was definitely coming from the drivers side and when the tires got about an inch off the ground, it sort of let loose and dropped about an inch. I didn't think much of it, jacked both tires up and looked at everything. I'm not a mechanic but I've worked on a lot of cars over the years. I turned the wheels all the way to the right and then left. The only thing I noticed was a torn boot on the passenger side tie rod. Everything on the driver side looked ok. I had a helper turn the wheel both ways with the car on and still nothing. No creaking/popping.
The sound can best be described as a creaky door opening, more noticeable the slower I'm moving.
It was getting dark and I couldn't find anything so I lowered it down. I drove down the street and there were no symptoms.
About 400 miles later, I heard it again. Something is not right but I don't know where to start. The easy thing to do is to replace all the suspension as preventive maintenance, but I don't want to do that. I just want to repair what is broken.
I'm going to jack it up again and take some more pictures but this one was what I was looking at when it let loose and dropped.
Any of the rubber bushings are suspects to be replaced. Other symptoms would be uneven tire wear, will not track straight... My thought is the sway bar bushings in this instance.
Any of the rubber bushings are suspects to be replaced. Other symptoms would be uneven tire wear, will not track straight... My thought is the sway bar bushings in this instance.
It the sway bar bushing also called the Strut bar bushing? It does pull slightly to the drivers side when I step on the brakes.
I found this diagram with similar symptoms pointing out that it may be the sway bar bushing. #12 was described as strut bar and a bushing may need to be replaced at the cam bolt, #14.
Tires are new and I just bought the car a few weeks ago.
Last edited by bdruff; 12-03-14 at 10:53 AM.
Reason: diagram part number descripiton
I have both front tires off the ground. As I was jacking it up on the drivers side, I heard a creak each time it lifted. there are several bushings that look bad but I really don't want to replace everything right now. Once it was in the air, I couldn't get it to make any noise at all, tried with the car on and off.
I can't feel any play in anything either. I've been reading through so many threads. Most people describe a popping sound when going over bumps. Mine is more of a creaking when turning the wheel slightly.
These three look like they might be the most likely culprits.
Looks like it's been leaking for sure and the rubber is weathered (small cracks)
I sprayed some lithium grease on it for now. There is no creaking. I suspect this will be a very temporary fix. I might just replace all three bushings if that's possible???
I could take it to a shop but the cost to diagnose it may be the same as just replacing all three bushings? If I can replace all three.
I'll keep reading but if someone has some info on these three spots, I'd very much appreciate it. Thanks for reading.
There have been a few suggestions in different threads, that lubrication will cure it temporarily. It was also suggested not to use wd-40 or petroleum based products, but rather a silicon spray.
That's what I did and it's noise free. I don't expect that to last but I want to identify which bushing is making noise. Probably should have left it to make it easier but I had to drive it and it was driving me crazy.
I might try this product though.
I love this car but not this particular one. I've owned it for less than a month. I looked for about 3 weeks for a blue or white, second generation ls400, low miles, in great condition with the nakamishi stereo, heated seats with no tears in the leather, and all the service records. I wanted to pay between $3-$4,000.
I came close a few times looking outside my area but when our only other car went down, I had to pull the trigger on this one. It's gold, which is my least favorite color, no heated seats, the power antenna doesn't work and has the non-nakamishi stereo. There are a few other small things, but other than that, it is super clean. I love the way it drives and feels and it's everything I thought it would be.
I think I can drive it through the holidays and then when tax time comes, and everybody is looking for a car, sell it. I might even be able to sell it for a little more than what I bought it for, especially if I can repair a few things.
I think the guy that sold it to me knew about this problem. I think he sprayed wd-40 to quiet it down. I don't want to do that to someone. If the bushing is bad, I'll replace it. If it's just noisy though, and a product like this will work, I'd use it.
I drove it again last night. I've put less than 1,000 miles on it since I bought it so it still feels new to me but something I am sure is related is a pull to the left when I apply the brake.
It is just the initial braking, it will pull to the left when the brake is first applied and then pull back to the right when I release the brake.
If I hold the wheel and step on the brakes, keeping it straight, I can then let go of the wheel and it will track straight. That makes me think it's not the brakes but a suspension issue.
Still trying to track down where it is.
I know the brakes were recently serviced and caliper replaced on the drivers side.
Hopefully somebody has an idea. There have been a few with similar symptoms.
Lubrication is temporary. Creak comes back within a few hundred miles.
I took a video. If I can post it here I will.
I can't find a bad bushing or ball joint from what I can see.
When I start to jack it up, it creaks as the suspension is releasing. With both front tires off the ground, I can't hear any noise or feel any resistance when I turn left or right.
I put the jack under the tire and started jacking it up. There is a creak but you can actually see resistance then release in the suspension.
When I lower the jack under the tire, it is the same...like it is hung up then releases. There is a noticeable "pop" when it drops.
An out of spec or worn bushing won't be obvious until it is removed. A visual look doesn't tell the whole story unless the bushing is obviously cracked. At 135K+ and 18 years old, the rubber has seen far better days. Start with the strut bar bushings, those create the bulk of front end noise issues to deal with on the LS. Next are the sway bar bushings and these are inexpensive enough that it isn't wallet ripping to replace.
There is no escaping that other bushings will need replacing as well. Depending on the roads the prior owner drove it, it is only a matter of time. We have discussions about other worn bushings/mounts in the LS400 including: engine, tranny and carrier.
replaced strut bar and bushing, still creaking, took it in
The saga continues...
Because my car was produced in Sept of 95, I had to order the whole strut bar with the bushing.
It did help with some noise but the loud creaking is still very bad.
I took it to Les Schwab tire center. They were really cool. They checked it out for free. At first they thought maybe lower control arm bushings. After a little more inspection, they said they were 100% sure they found it.
Their estimate is for a new control arm assembly. They said it was a ball joint (I think i know which one they are talking about) but that after paying for labor for pressing out bushings, I may as well just replace the arm with new bushings installed.
parts were not oem and most likely poly. He said he could get one from the dealer and give me the same price as he got it for if i wanted.
estimate: control arm assembly $238.42
Remove and install $45
Alignment front and back
Total out the door $386.53
Thoughts?
I have tools and can probably get the pressing done for cheaper than what they would charge.
$45 seems pretty good for total labor but if i could get the whole job done for around $200 by doing it myself, id probably do that.
the ball joint is bolted to the knuckle so just replace the BJ if that's the only thing that is bad (very likely and common). i hardly hear of bad lower control arms but the bushings could be shot on your car.
this is the ball joint by itself.
i would get OEM if you can get them at that price, which is not all that bad! poly is squeaky when not greased properly, and OEM bushings are soft which gives that nice plush ride that lexus is known for.
The lower control arm and ball joint are two separate parts. The control arm is a bit over $200 at Sewell, the ball joint about $75. If the ball joint is the problem, buy a ball puller from Amazon and an OEM ball joint from Sewell and just do it yourself. You'll still have to pay for an alignment, but that's true no matter who swaps the ball joint.
actually if you replace the BJ the alignment isn't affected, but should be done anyway to square everything off. if you change the lower arm, then yes you need an alignment for sure as the cam bolts were touched to remove the arm assembly.
12-03-14, 09:19 AM
suspension diagonosis/symptoms
