oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

I had a recent possibly related experience on my '91.

I ended up finally finding a failed UCA bushing - the rear bushing on the front right UCA. To find it, I jacked the car up with the wheels still on, but off the ground. Then by hitting the tires hard with my hand and listening/feeling for different types of vibrations, I found that my left side was solid, but the right side had a little ring to it. I then traced it more carefully and could tell that that failed bushing was allowing some vibration when hitting it.

I had done the more commonly instructed push/pull sorts of testing for looseness for many years and never found it.

I had always had a constant pull to the right that could not be corrected by multiple alignments. Now that I know the answer, it makes perfect sense. The wheels were properly aligned. Then, as soon as I start driving, the slight drag force on the right front wheel (just from rolling - no change when applying the brakes) would allow that rear UCA bushing to shift inward, allowing the right wheel to point just a little outward, to the right. So I had a _constant_ steering wheel angle to the left to correct this. The angle did not change with speed, since the bushing shift was all or nothing.

I replaced the failed UCA a week or so ago (Raybestos, fit perfectly and visually looked just like OE), and it completely fixed my drift to the right problem.

Over the years, I have also replaced the front lower ball joints (common repair on my years), strut rod bushings, struts, strut mounts, and other strut stuff.

Funny that the PO recently replaced the caliper - exactly the same sort of thing I did while chasing this - I actually rebuilt all calipers and the master cylinder while I was thinking the brake was dragging. I'm glad I gave up before replacing wheel bearings.

Since your problem starts only when you apply the brake, I'll guess it's a little different than mine, and not as bad. Mine would happen just by driving.

I don't know much about the specifics for the '96 - I know the strut rod/bar is different from mine though. The UCA's are kind of the same between the two generations. OE has different part numbers. But the Raybestos part I used successfully says it works for 90-00. So I don't want to give too much specific advice because it could be a little different. But it sounds like from the good questions you're asking and the good help you're getting, you'll probably be able to do a better job than the tire shop would.

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

Assuming they're talking about the upper control arm shown clearly in your photos = one ball joint and two bushings. The bushings on those UCAs are not sold by Lexus, but you can get pretty solid looking equivalents for around $10-$12 each (eBay, at least) if you're willing to press out / press in. The ball joints, however are not replaceable.

Quality aftermarket UCAs can now be found for ~$120. My Raybestos was great, but search on here for other good options. At the high mileage our cars are at, and at this price, it probably makes sense to just replace the whole UCA. Some I'm sure will insist on doing both sides if you do one (nice that the tire shop did not try to talk you into that), but I did not and mine is fine.

That quote does look very fair, but I think you should be able to buy the whole UCA and do it yourself. I would not even count on needing an alignment. I did not.

bdruff

Found a great write up here on replacing just the ball joint. The local dealer had it for a good price and I ordered it. Should be here Monday. I also read an alignment might not be totally necessary but I might do one anyway because I just did the strut bar and the car has new tires.

I'll post if it fixes it. I hate unresolved threads. Thanks everybody

bdruff

The quote was for the lower control arm. He didn't point it out to me so there is a chance he was talking about the UCA. He talked about over $100 in pressing out bushings but said several times "lower control arm" at first he suspected lower control arm bushings but then said he was sure it was the ball joint on the lower control arm.

bdruff

So I bought the Lower control arm with the ball joint from Lexus here in town. Then I let it sit in the trunk for the last month. The noise came and went but mostly, it was quiet. I knew I needed to change it but yesterday, it was loud and I had time.

I followed this thread:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ll-joints.html

Super easy. I was able to rent (free if I returned it) from an autoparts store. I tried to do it with a pully-puller but it kept slipping. the tie rod puller made quick work of it.

There is a large bolt directly under the ball joint. In the thread it is referred to as a 27mm. Mine was 24mm.

Torqued down and good as new. No noise, no pulling to the left when I brake or to the right when I release the brakes. Even feels a little tighter.

Pretty happy now.