badass8

Alright so I need some assistance in my crank but no start issue. First off I have searched a TON, I will list what I have tested below.

I put a 1992 1uzfe out of a ls400 into my s13 but I am having starting problems. Wiring was done from a fellow 1uz swap member that I am ASSUMING is done correctly. I also purchased this engine from someone on the forums hoping its good.

The ***** that doesn't want to run:


Video: This is what it will do every start up. Cranks but no start/run.
http://vid263.photobucket.com/albums...ps4v6cs7uv.mp4

First off if you go to page 3 on my build thread you will see most of what I have done, but I'll tell you hear as well.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=564700

The problem:

Not getting spark:

Cylinders: 2,3,5,8 (Passenger Side Coil Pack)

Getting Spark:

Cylinders: 1,4,6,7 (Driver Side Coil Pack)

The Tests:

-Coil packs both measure at 12.7~ OHMS

-Switched out distributor caps and rotors on passenger side, no difference.

-Switched out ECU's no difference.

-Switched out coil packs.

-Switched Driver and Passenger Coil Wires with each other.

-Checked Timing

-Igniters are grounded I even switched those out.

-Getting power at the coil pack bottom connector at 11.6 volts give or take my battery was a little low. Not sure if the coil pack wire that leads to the distributor cap is getting spark though.

-Getting power at igniters.

-Tested at 20k OHMS: Checked spark plug wires. The writing next to the specified values is what my spark plug readings are. They seem to be close to the given values.


It comes to my attention that even IF my passenger coil pack was bad it should still run on 4 cylinders correct? Unless in fact I am not getting fuel which I haven't checked yet. Since my focus is to fix my no spark issue.

*Note all the "switching out" has been done by other junk yard parts I have laying around so YES technically one or more of those junk yard parts could be bad.

Any help would be MUCH appreciated. Thank you.

lexmoose

I don't see any mention of switching the wire from coil to distribution.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

The car will not necessarily run on 4cyl with a bad coil.

I didn't see any mention of testing the cap and rotor on the pass. side.
Confirm that you don't have the rotor 180* out of whack on that side.
Confirm that you have no spark going into the dist so you can rule in or rule out the coil pack.


What's the status of the CEL?

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

just went through your thread on zilvia. lots of work here! hope to help.

super curious as to what was modified on the wiring harness. i know you didn't do the wiring but it would help to get a overall picture of what was done to 'wire' the car. possible all that was done was some connector changes so the factory S13 tach and speed would work. hoping your electrician didn't muck up anything else.

to rule a fuel problem, spray some starting fluid into the throttle body and try to start the motor. it should start on that fuel alone, but will have a hard time with only 4 cyl getting spark. how do you know the other coil is not getting spark? you pulling out the plug wires and grounding the plug tips to see a spark?

dicer

Did you check for fuel pressure yet? Need to check for signal to ig module. You could have just a bad connector some place or wire issue with all the messing around with them, you need to check wire and connector continuity. Did it run before the swap?

Scratchy

you'd still get spark 180° out, and he said he swapped the pass. side cap & rotor, though both could be bad

Yamae

I would check the circuit opening relay working properly.

badass8

Thank you for mentioning that, but yes I did do that as well.

I switched the driver side cap and rotor with the driver side as well as with a spare cap and rotor I had laying around. But correct the rotor was on the correct side. I am not 100% sure how to check if my passenger side distributor is getting spark besides testing the spark plug wires themselves. Maybe I can leave the coil plug wire only connected to the distributor and not the coil pack, onto a ground and try cranking it over would that create a spark? I am just learning all this wiring stuff myself to be honest, I am no professional at it.

That's another thing I am confused about, the CEL. How would I read the CEL even though its not showing up on my cluster? Would I bridge something at the ECU and count the # of pulses the light comes on?

Yeah unfortunately he wouldn't tell me to much information about his wiring to keep it earning him more jobs. Not sure why, but I have the SE model 240sx and he said he wasn't able to or didn't know how to wire up my speedo/tach also my coolant temp wire to the cluster isn't hooked up either. But just from looking at the wiring it didn't seem to tough to do. I'll have to start studying diagrams to see what he deleted and kept. He's done a few of these swaps and that's why I am trying to trust his work.

I have tried starting fluid. Obviously the more I put the more it WANTS to start, but it never starts completely, if anything just a louder response and more blackish smoke from the open header exhaust. I know fuel is getting to the fuel rail, but not sure if the injectors and pulsing, I'll have to get a noid light if my spark issue does fix this.

Correct I pulled out each spark plug wire and used a spark tester, grounded it to the engine. I only figured the coil is not getting spark because its not reaching the spark plug wires. If the continuity values specified in the FSM sorta match the numbers I received from my test, could it still be possible the spark plug wires are bad?


I have not checked fuel pressure yet. Trying to work on this at one step at a time, spark is my main priority, I don't need fuel to have spark though correct? I did just put in a new 255 walbro fuel pump that is working great though, whines like no other. I honestly don't know if the engine was running before I got it.


Are you referring to the main relay with the B+, ign, ground and I forget the other wire?


Also if you guys needed to know I am running a relocated battery to the trunk. A 30 amp fuse a foot away from the battery but inlined with a 12 gauge wire(leads to the main relay) along side the 0 gauge battery wire and a 200 AMP circuit breaker under the hood. That is the setup the guy that did my wiring installed.

Yamae

No. It is a relay controled by the ECU to disable the engine to start up or stop the already running engine when a certain abnormality is detected.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

There's literally no reason your wiring guy could not have hooked up the CEL to your cluster. It's a simple connectivity circuit, nothing else. If he didn't, you need to figure out which wires are the correct ones coming out of your ECU (i don't have a '92 EWD on me) and hook it up to your stock CEL. Then you can bridge the wires off the part of the OEM harness you should be using, if not there is a way to do it from the ECM.

To test if the coil is even sparking, you can pull the spark plug cable going from the coil to the distributor and hold it close to the engine block as a ground.

If it isn't sparking, test these components: Ignition Coil, Ignitor for that bank, confirm the non-firing bank Cam sensor is plugged in and tests properly, confirm wiring for ignitor and cam sensor back to ecu.

good luck.

EDIT: extreme detail on testing the ignitors. skip to the later part for actual test procedure.

badass8

Okay thank you, I'll have to check that last if the igniters aren't working correctly.

Sorry about the late reply still busy as hell with work and school, I haven't had anytime to work on the 240sx.

I just asked my wiring guy and he did not wire the CEL. He claims he doesn't know how which frightens me considering how easy you say it is. I will definitely have to wire the CEL.

Actually funny you linked that Igniter Bypass Test because that was the last thing I tested. I am not sure if I did it correctly because it didn't work for me.

I used some needles to pin the IGT wires on each igniter not sure if the needles were the correct material to create a spark looked like a metal material to me. I connected the test light to the positive brass eyelet terminal connector (the blue cable pictured) on the circuit breaker since my battery is relocated in the trunk. I am not sure if the test light needs to be connected to the battery terminal itself, either way the test light wasn't able to reach my trunk. The instructor in the video claims the test light should not light up when touching the pins, well mine did which I was a little confused about. That being said it didn't create a spark on the coil wires on either the passenger or driver side. This was all with the key turned to the ON position.


Another question: How would I test the igniter? I have only tested it by volts. And it's getting power.
And I assume I would just test the cam sensor by continuity(OHMS)?

Thank you. I hope to have some time this week to work on it.

badass8

SHE RUNS!

The previous OWNER not the person that wired my car decided to DEPIN the passenger igniter connector and he switched the IGT and IGF wires so the signal wasn't going to where it should be going.

Switched it back to where it should be, Spark are all 8 cylinders, starts and runs with ease.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

congrats !