1999 Ls400 Fob Key
10-21-14, 01:11 PM
#1
1999 Ls400 Fob Key
on one of my 99 LS's, my fob key will lock all the doors when you press LOCK,
but when you press unlock, nothing unlocks.. no sound, nothing
and even the trunk release (on fob) quit working.
once again, push lock button and car locks (as it should)
but nothing else works (of course I can unlock with the key)
but no other action, no unlock and no trunk release (with button)
have I made that clear, my FOB will lock my car but will do nothing else..
do any of you have any experience with this problem???
the key starts the car, and the alarm works, I had to unlock with key to stop it.
ANY HELP???
but when you press unlock, nothing unlocks.. no sound, nothing
and even the trunk release (on fob) quit working.
once again, push lock button and car locks (as it should)
but nothing else works (of course I can unlock with the key)
but no other action, no unlock and no trunk release (with button)
have I made that clear, my FOB will lock my car but will do nothing else..
do any of you have any experience with this problem???
the key starts the car, and the alarm works, I had to unlock with key to stop it.
ANY HELP???
10-21-14, 07:11 PM
#6
Lead Lap
how old is that key? some of the internal connections may just be starting to go bad. don't really see what else can be done besides getting a new key, but that's pretty expensive
10-24-14, 07:03 AM
#7
I have found out that the trouble is in the 3 button unit in my key, not the car..
here is what I am going to try.... ordering a matching ebay key with the 3 button assembly in it, put the 3 button in my shell and have park place program it $55 for me..... they offered me a 3 button key for 200. plus the 55$
ebay is lower.
I will see if that works and report...
here is what I am going to try.... ordering a matching ebay key with the 3 button assembly in it, put the 3 button in my shell and have park place program it $55 for me..... they offered me a 3 button key for 200. plus the 55$
ebay is lower.
I will see if that works and report...
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10-24-14, 07:19 AM
#8
I have found out that the trouble is in the 3 button unit in my key, not the car..
here is what I am going to try.... ordering a matching ebay key with the 3 button assembly in it, put the 3 button in my shell and have park place program it $55 for me..... they offered me a 3 button key for 200. plus the 55$
ebay is lower. .
here is what I am going to try.... ordering a matching ebay key with the 3 button assembly in it, put the 3 button in my shell and have park place program it $55 for me..... they offered me a 3 button key for 200. plus the 55$
ebay is lower. .
By the way, Sewell will sell you a new 3-button key cut to your VIN for $154, which you can then program yourself with your old key as the template.
Last edited by mappo; 10-24-14 at 07:23 AM.
10-24-14, 08:44 AM
#9
Is it cheaper to get the new key cut instead of the old one reprogrammed? If so then pay that fee, then with your old fob as the master you can reprogram the new one yourself.
By the way, Sewell will sell you a new 3-button key cut to your VIN for $154, which you can then program yourself with your old key as the template.
By the way, Sewell will sell you a new 3-button key cut to your VIN for $154, which you can then program yourself with your old key as the template.
that is why I am getting a different 3 button....
10-24-14, 09:10 AM
#10
I'm not 100% sure I'm following, so forgive me if I'm getting it wrong. If the fob still locks the doors, and allows the car to start, its programming isn't bad - it's still paired to your car's ECU. It's the button mechanisms themselves that are bad, right? So your existing fob doesn't need to be reprogrammed, and you can use it to program any new fobs/keys you get.
10-24-14, 10:37 AM
#11
RIGHT ON... when you reprogram a key/transmitter, after your 5/LU OC 5/LU K in turn -remove, then you press lock & unlock buttons at the same time THAT is where my unit fails, the UNLOCK button makes no contact, and the car alarm goes off and you then need to put key into driver door and turn to stop alarm..
AND that is the problem the car locks, but the unlock - trunk buttons send no message, the light on the button assembly flashes showing contact .... but no message is sent.... ARE YOU WITH ME??
AND that is the problem the car locks, but the unlock - trunk buttons send no message, the light on the button assembly flashes showing contact .... but no message is sent.... ARE YOU WITH ME??
10-24-14, 10:46 AM
#12
RIGHT ON... when you reprogram a key/transmitter, after your 5/LU OC 5/LU K in turn -remove, then you press lock & unlock buttons at the same time THAT is where my unit fails, the UNLOCK button makes no contact, and the car alarm goes off and you then need to put key into driver door and turn to stop alarm..
AND that is the problem the car locks, but the unlock - trunk buttons send no message, the light on the button assembly flashes showing contact .... but no message is sent.... ARE YOU WITH ME??
AND that is the problem the car locks, but the unlock - trunk buttons send no message, the light on the button assembly flashes showing contact .... but no message is sent.... ARE YOU WITH ME??
When you program a key/fob the programming isn't to tell the buttons what to do, it's to tell your car to accept that particular key's signal. Your car already accepts that fob's signals so there's no need to tell it again.
You need an entirely new fob, and you can program it using the lock/unlock hokeypokey sequence, rather than paying a dealer $55 to do it. It doesn't even need a key if you want to save the cutting cost - you can remove the metal stalk and just attach the plastic unit to your keychain as a companion fob to your existing key. When I bought my car that's what the original owner was doing. On the keychain was a fob-less key for the ignition and a 3-button fob with the metal stalk removed for button features.
Last edited by mappo; 10-24-14 at 06:30 PM.
10-24-14, 05:55 PM
#13
Moderator
What I'm saying is, you don't need to reprogram your existing fob. Its programming is fine already, it just has busted buttons.
When you program a key/fob the programming isn't to tell the buttons what to do, it's to tell your car to accept that particular key's signal. Your car already accepts that fob's signals so there's no need to tell it again.
You need an entirely new fob, and you can to program it using the lock/unlock hokeypokey sequence, rather than paying a dealer $55 to do it. It doesn't even need a key if you want to save the cutting cost - you can remove the metal stalk and just attach the plastic unit to your keychain as a companion fob to your existing key. When I bought my car that's what the original owner was doing. On the keychain was a fob-less key for the ignition and a 3-button fob with the metal stalk removed for button features.
When you program a key/fob the programming isn't to tell the buttons what to do, it's to tell your car to accept that particular key's signal. Your car already accepts that fob's signals so there's no need to tell it again.
You need an entirely new fob, and you can to program it using the lock/unlock hokeypokey sequence, rather than paying a dealer $55 to do it. It doesn't even need a key if you want to save the cutting cost - you can remove the metal stalk and just attach the plastic unit to your keychain as a companion fob to your existing key. When I bought my car that's what the original owner was doing. On the keychain was a fob-less key for the ignition and a 3-button fob with the metal stalk removed for button features.
I only spent about $5 for a used fob and reprogrammed it. The detail for my Celsior is not yet posted but I posted the process for my wife's car Toyota Caldina. You can find it at my blog page below which is reporting what I do to my good old American colleagues.
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/mae_yas/6243892.html
10-24-14, 06:03 PM
#14
This thread sounds like a recruiting speech!
On one of my remotes, one of the actual internal buttons on the circuit board that get pressed by the outer plastic buttons have had their little pins break off where they are soldered. It results in the unlock button not working, but it still clicks and feels like they all should work. Taking the remote all the way apart showed that the actual unlock button wasn't even attached to the board
On one of my remotes, one of the actual internal buttons on the circuit board that get pressed by the outer plastic buttons have had their little pins break off where they are soldered. It results in the unlock button not working, but it still clicks and feels like they all should work. Taking the remote all the way apart showed that the actual unlock button wasn't even attached to the board