cgawelko

So i have been using Rotella T6 from some other members recommendation and based on how many of the Bob Is The Oil Guy people who run it (and well, seriously, their whole page is dedicated to fluids...)

I came across this link. So if you dont use Rotella T6, check out this list and see how the oil you buy stacks up!

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30483

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

been using mobil 1 religiously but after more and more reading on BITOG, i recently moved to pennsoil platinum. going to look for the ultra stuff now! thanks for the share.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

I just did a change last week from M1 to Penn also.

brybo86

Rotella T6 is a 5w40....
is that what you guys are using...
I put Amsoil SS 0w30 in mine..?

KA8

iTrader: (1)

T6 is good oil and I've been using it on my TTZ for almost 2 yrs and happy with it. But for LS400 I do not see any added benefit for using T6 unless you're constantly applying alot of stress on the engine. So I use Valvoline maxlife for my LS400 and i'm at almost 250K miles, but previous owner told me he's been using mobile one for yrs though

cgawelko

I used that Valvoline Max-Life Syn blend CRAP in my car last oil change.... Dealer said go 5k on it, went 5k, and it came out of my car thick and black with sludge. Moved to Rotella T6 5w-40 and its much better. Been 1500 miles and the oil is still a nice delicious amber color and everything. The high mile maxlife junk came out just under 5 quarts too. was about 4.8 coming out. 5.4 went in, and crap came out.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

T6 for >20-30k in my LS, just started running it in my spyder.

can't be beat for the price.

Also, we'll merge this with the main oil threads in a few days.

cgawelko

Yeah when the replies start dropping off.. lol

The price of the T6 is actually surprisingly cheap! I though for sure since it was synthetic it would be butt loads like the rest, I almost bought 4 jugs of oil to cover two oil changes for each car! LOL I had bought a jug of the Synpower Valvoline on special for $36. I returned it for a jug of Rotella, and they gave me a ton of hassle and stuff without my receipt and then they owed me $9 and he was like "just call it even, I wasnt supposed to take it back" (the price changed on the oil that morning so they wanted to be dicks). So I walked out, $9 cheaper. I could have got 2 more oil filters and still been cheaper than the Big name stuff!

KA8

iTrader: (1)

Maxlife isnt crap. I've been using that 'crap' for a long time with no negative results. In fact I skipped one oil change on my LS400 by accident lol. Oil was changed after 6000 miles, no sludge. When it comes to oil use whatever makes you feel better. Just imo.

cgawelko

Its crap. Valvoline let me down. I used strictly Valvoline in the 31 cars ive owned, and in anything ive ever changed the oil on that wasnt at work, and when I pulled the drain plug and it came out pitch black, I was let down. Then the filter didnt leak until I got it off the threads and a chunk of sludge dropped and splashed me... Filter is sitting outside in the empty drain pan still gummed up with crap.... I lost my faith in Valvoline at that moment. With there being 230132475689768764r5138958906409808953890809356709708953 different oils I could use, I expected better. Rotella from now on for me!

Finn

And how long OCI did you run for the oil to do this?

RA40

iTrader: (6)

The intervals and driving conditions will be the determining part of the equation. For most of the intervals there won't be concerns for wear. That said, if you have the option to buy an oil that has the better performance properties for the same $, the choice is pretty clear.

I have had a sample sitting in the garage that needs to be sent out. Just been plain lazy to ship it off. Now that the car is at 197K, there have been very few changes that are significant to motivate a different routine. Intervals at 7-8K and the Japan made 90915-20004 filter. Have gone to 16K on oil and it still holds but I feel the better range for ours is at the 7-10K interval range.

Want to keep driving the LS400 for a long time. Newer Lexus offerings don't sway us.

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

if you are doing accelerated oil change intervals, there is little benefit to buying expensive oil. Realistically you are throwing your money away. And unless your car calls for a specific additive package, only available in certain brands and/or synthetic oils, the use of synthetic is moot unless you are trying to do 8-15k mile intervals.

i've had customers who changed their dino oil every 3000 miles like clockwork and have 300k+ on their cars and there is zero carbon or sludge buildup and no consumption issues. At the same time I have many customers who follow some the dealer suggested extended oil change intervals who have serious carbon, sludge and consumption issues within 60-100k miles from new... BMW's, as an example, are notorious for having major sludge and canon issues if you follow their oil change intervals from the early 2k's...

I have used standard Cheap as ***** Castrol oil for years without any problems. Regular oil changes and quality filters are all you need!

cgawelko

I do mine every 5K on the synthetic. I am too scared to go longer lol

RA40, sample of oil you have to send out???? I should do this with my maxlife. I will send them my glob filled filter lol

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

i generally stay away from 'high mileage' oils bc of the extra additives in there. read more on BITOG! also those oils don't say "energy conserving" on the bottle, something even the oil cap says the car needs. of course we can stray away from that, and oil weights all day. over time the affects show, not immediate.

i change every 8-10k miles. good friend of mine did oil analysis on his mobil 1 oil after 5k and it came back with 99% life left, among other details. we should have gather that data and posted it online. i'll see if i can get that data from blackstone labs.