djsurfer

iTrader: (2)

So for the past 10 months I keep having this same issue on both rear axles and have been replaced and switched out 3 times each side along with new bearings. I have a 92 Lexus LS, on megan EZs and currently sitting on fully custom Bazreias.

Heres whats been happening; had Shallens 19s on before for a while with no issues until one day I decided to lower the car a bit more by adjusting the coils and when I lowered the car after adjustment, all of a sudden the rear right wheel starting jumping/ bouncing violently immediately on test drive. My regular mechanic said it was a faulty axle so both were replaced either way and bearing aswell and car rode great for a few months. Decided to sell my Shallens to get new ones (19" bazreias) , so up went the car to throw in the stock 15" sawblades meanwhile my wheels were at the shop, when dropped and driven same thing on the opposite rear left side on the stock 15's. I lifted the car and put on drive and the wheel would CLUNK and stop spinning after one full turn. Same thing was done again, replaced both axles and ran fine for a while. Then a few weeks later went in for an alignment, car was finished being aligned and as soon as it came back down and was driving home, again same issue with the rear right, axles were replaced one more time. Havent driven the car for 2 months while my new wheels were being fully customized, widened and rebuilt. Just put them on today after raising the car, and ONCE AGAIN got the same issue with the rear right axle. Always the same thing, violent bouncing at a certain spot after every revolution oft he wheel with a loud clunk each time with the feel of wheel hesistation.

Now I decided to consult with a Mercedes Benz mechanic friends of the family and he tells me that the OEM axles keep dislocating after raising and lowering the car. He says I must source out some axles that are and inch or two longer to avoid having this issue and that they should be available. Anybody else having this same issue or heard of it, and can confirm or know where I can source out these rear extended axles? My car is finally finished but cannot drive it, it is quite frustrating to have a completely rebuilt LS inside and out and keep having this issue that prevents me from driving it! Thanks again for all the help as always fellow members!

Miguel

python

iTrader: (4)

im on megans and lowered and I don't have an issue. one thing u do need to know is the lower u go the more of an angle the axles will be

djsurfer

iTrader: (2)

Yea that's true, but Ive been like 2 inches from the lip of my rim to fender for almost 2 years now but this never happened until 10 months ago. Im not super low Ive seen many others ALOT lower and tucking wheels static on megans too but they don't seem to have this issue either.

python

iTrader: (4)

well the idea of longer axles is ludicrous...im not too sure of ur solution. where did u get the axles? grab ur inner and outer axle knuckles and move them up and down to check for play,while the car is up in the air of course. u may have a problem with the rear end itself

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

axles are bolted at both the spindle and the diff end, something's wrong with your rear end if you're having these issues.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Have a pic of where it broke?

djsurfer

iTrader: (2)

There is no visible damage anywhere. The crazy vibrations/jumping happens when reaching 10 miles per hour and stops when the car is stopped and sometimes wont do it again for a while. Like todaybi was camberig the rear with a boy that knows suspension very well after the problem so i could tuck my wider wheels. Top camber adjustment doesnt exist for these LSs so it didnt camber enough to tuck the sidewall so we threw the stocks back on. And to show him and he could feel what happened I drove around with the stocks on the rear. Car immidiately started shaking jumping around in the rear until we hit a stop sign, and after didnt do anything whatsoever after we did a few laps around the neighborhood. He is also clueless aswell.mm

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Which end of the axle, diff or wheel? How many miles on it now?

djsurfer

iTrader: (2)

Theres not always a sound, when there is a clunkig soind its sounds like its coming from around the hub. My car barely ever movesnonly to shows and meets. I work from home and its not a daily. Last time they were replaced was 3 months ago and i havent driven it for the past 2 so maybe a couple of days in the first months so Ill say no more than 200 miles. Again usually only happens when the car goes up in the air and comes back down. Sometimes a few weeks sometimes after a few months but only when the car has been slightly raised for: alignments, 2 - 3 wheels swaps, and once after 1/4" adjustment from one rear coil done in a few seconds. This is very puzzling!

RA40

iTrader: (6)

How many total miles on car? If the axle shafts are not displaying wear, that leads to the differential and hub attachment points. Get the car up on a lift and spin the wheels and/or put it in gear and listen as it rotates. Can be at either end of the shaft so start turning and wiggling it to see if you can detect which end may be the issue. Dial gauges are great for finding run-out on rotating/spinning parts.

djsurfer

iTrader: (2)

Cars got 183,xxx. No shafts are mint still from last replacement. The hub was also replaced once but on the other side, its hard to look for a sound because at the time it isn't doing it, only when driving and get violent bouncing up and down from the rear right. When lifted in the air and on Drive OR Neutral wheels spin fine with no wobble or anything and no clunking sound while spinning the wheels by hand or by drivetrain.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

did you induce any more negative camber over stock adjustment such as using megan lower control arms and toe links? the extreme camber can be binding you axles.

what axles are you using? OEM? make sure you are using the correct year axles. i believe UCF10 axles do not interchange with UCF20. what hub bearings? OEM? if they are slightly shorter, they will pull your axles out and bind.

djsurfer

iTrader: (2)

No there has been only -2 camber just from the drop and could remove any more. Since my wheels weren't too wide and only got near the wheel well so I ever cambered. Yes I used OEM bearings and axles everytime ordered from the parts store. I was going to buy some from the STEALership and when I called this morning and went by VIN number for a 1st Gen LS they quoted me $805 for the rear right axle and $785 for the rear left!!! $1600 just for axles straight from LEXUS!?! Never heard such a ridiculous price for anything at any stealership!

cobalt91

What do the bushings look like? That violent hopping sound like the geometry is bad on the control arms.

djsurfer

iTrader: (2)

Bushings look great! Again today after cambering the rear (still landed on sidewall so stocks are back on until fenders get pulled) for the first time to try and fit my new wider wheels, I dropped it right away and drove it. As soon as I pulled out of my driveway and hit 10mph the violent shake began. Then got to the stop sign and it completely stopped as it usually does until picking up just a bit of speed and drove it around the block about 5 times and didn't bounce again after that first stop. It seems to start to happen anywhere between 8mph-30mph (usually don't get to reach faster than that due to too much excessive/violent bouncing) and doesn't go away until a complete stop and comes back up to speed again.