Alternator questions
#16
Driver
Thread Starter
Btw you never looked at my DM on instagram.
#17
Driver
Thread Starter
According to a local shop owner who rebuilts alternators a lot, those damaged alternators caused by the leaking P/S oil often need to replace slip rings as well as brushes. Because the slip rings are also damaged by the oil badly often. In order to replace slip rings, you have to replace the whole shaft assembely and the total cost becomes close to a new alternator.
You have to be careful not to have the leaking P/S oil for long time. The shop owner says, "Fix the leaking P/S oil within a week or you will ruin the alternator badly and can't be rebuilt easily".
You have to be careful not to have the leaking P/S oil for long time. The shop owner says, "Fix the leaking P/S oil within a week or you will ruin the alternator badly and can't be rebuilt easily".
#18
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
When I did mine, it only took me about 1.5hours to do it out the top.
You could do it out the bottom but you'd have to remove all of the plastic covers off the bottom of the car and drop the sway bar, maybe more. I hate doing that because most of those screws are rusted and snap off when you go to remove them... Most have never been removed in the 15-20+ years they have been on the car so when they snap off, you can get odd buffeting noises from those covers on the highway.
Taking out the top is easy.
Remove intake snorkel
Discounted upper rad hose from rad, lose about 1L of coolant
Remove fan shroud
Remove fan, don't have to but makes it easier.
Remove belt
Disconnect battery
Remove 1 bolt and one nut to pull alternator
Pull out, and remove 10mm nut from power terminal.
Twist and carefully remove connector... These can be a beach so be careful and done break it.
Check old alt to new alt for pulley to mounting flange distances.
Reverse order to install.
You could do it out the bottom but you'd have to remove all of the plastic covers off the bottom of the car and drop the sway bar, maybe more. I hate doing that because most of those screws are rusted and snap off when you go to remove them... Most have never been removed in the 15-20+ years they have been on the car so when they snap off, you can get odd buffeting noises from those covers on the highway.
Taking out the top is easy.
Remove intake snorkel
Discounted upper rad hose from rad, lose about 1L of coolant
Remove fan shroud
Remove fan, don't have to but makes it easier.
Remove belt
Disconnect battery
Remove 1 bolt and one nut to pull alternator
Pull out, and remove 10mm nut from power terminal.
Twist and carefully remove connector... These can be a beach so be careful and done break it.
Check old alt to new alt for pulley to mounting flange distances.
Reverse order to install.
#19
Driver
Thread Starter
When I did mine, it only took me about 1.5hours to do it out the top.
You could do it out the bottom but you'd have to remove all of the plastic covers off the bottom of the car and drop the sway bar, maybe more. I hate doing that because most of those screws are rusted and snap off when you go to remove them... Most have never been removed in the 15-20+ years they have been on the car so when they snap off, you can get odd buffeting noises from those covers on the highway.
Taking out the top is easy.
Remove intake snorkel
Discounted upper rad hose from rad, lose about 1L of coolant
Remove fan shroud
Remove fan, don't have to but makes it easier.
Remove belt
Disconnect battery
Remove 1 bolt and one nut to pull alternator
Pull out, and remove 10mm nut from power terminal.
Twist and carefully remove connector... These can be a beach so be careful and done break it.
Check old alt to new alt for pulley to mounting flange distances.
Reverse order to install.
You could do it out the bottom but you'd have to remove all of the plastic covers off the bottom of the car and drop the sway bar, maybe more. I hate doing that because most of those screws are rusted and snap off when you go to remove them... Most have never been removed in the 15-20+ years they have been on the car so when they snap off, you can get odd buffeting noises from those covers on the highway.
Taking out the top is easy.
Remove intake snorkel
Discounted upper rad hose from rad, lose about 1L of coolant
Remove fan shroud
Remove fan, don't have to but makes it easier.
Remove belt
Disconnect battery
Remove 1 bolt and one nut to pull alternator
Pull out, and remove 10mm nut from power terminal.
Twist and carefully remove connector... These can be a beach so be careful and done break it.
Check old alt to new alt for pulley to mounting flange distances.
Reverse order to install.
Do you have to remove the fan shroud or is it optional like the fan? It looks like taking the hose off would give a decent amount of room. Are the nut and bolt above each other? I can clearly see two 14s, one that will need a wrench to remove due to tight space and another that will need a socket with 2" extension.
And I am assuming you would only have to take the sway bar off if you plan to take the alt out the bottom? I'm just saying wouldn't it be easier to access to alternator from the bottom? As for the plastic skid plate I know mine can be removed/re-installed just fine as I took it off to clean all the PS fluid off of it.
Last edited by Caniac14; 06-03-14 at 01:11 PM.
#20
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
A battery connected/disconnected makes zero difference on a mechanically driven fan.
So pulling the power first or just before unbolting the alternator really makes no difference. For the average nub, probably a good thing to do first but on super stiff motors, it's often easier to bump the engine around to get to all the fan bolts/nuts.
You don't have to pull the fan but you do have to pull the shroud. The alt is on a big long stud and you need to almost pull it into the rad core to get it off. At least that's how it was on my 96... I'd remove the fan just because while you can work around it, it's easier to remove it and have it out of your way.
And it's not just the skid plate but the entire plastic skirting that has to be removed to pull the sway bar. Probably work out to be the same amount of time. If I was working on an immaculate Cali car and on a hoist, is probably pull it out the bottom. In a driveway, I'd opt to pull it out the top. I don't like to work from my back and upside down, no power to break bolts free...
So pulling the power first or just before unbolting the alternator really makes no difference. For the average nub, probably a good thing to do first but on super stiff motors, it's often easier to bump the engine around to get to all the fan bolts/nuts.
You don't have to pull the fan but you do have to pull the shroud. The alt is on a big long stud and you need to almost pull it into the rad core to get it off. At least that's how it was on my 96... I'd remove the fan just because while you can work around it, it's easier to remove it and have it out of your way.
And it's not just the skid plate but the entire plastic skirting that has to be removed to pull the sway bar. Probably work out to be the same amount of time. If I was working on an immaculate Cali car and on a hoist, is probably pull it out the bottom. In a driveway, I'd opt to pull it out the top. I don't like to work from my back and upside down, no power to break bolts free...
#21
Driver
Thread Starter
Just got the alternator out. Managed to do it from the bottom in just over an hour. 20 minutes of it probably removing all the damn bolts for the skid plate thing. Taking here to the rebuild shop. Hopefully I get some good news.
#23
Driver
Thread Starter
Welp. fk me. Paid $100 to have it rebuilt. Got her back in in about 45 minutes. Runs good, no battery light. I'm like ok, so I tell my neighbor they can give their dad his tools back. I go to advanced to have them check everything and it's only reading 13.38 Unloaded and 12.63 Loaded which means my battery isn't even getting charged. FKN GREAT! Now I have to take that beach back out, and take her back up there. I'm gonna demand they give me access to one of their lifts to take it out again. Not to mention I have to wait the whole freaking weekend too!
Last edited by Caniac14; 06-06-14 at 07:32 PM. Reason: language
#24
just be sure
Before you yank it out again, be sure your battery is okay first; get it tested. Once a battery has been run down a few times, like yours, they often exhibit poor charging voltages, and don't pass load testing.
#25
Driver
Thread Starter
Here is what the thing they printed out looks like.
Battery Test Results
GOOD - RECHARGE
Voltage: 12.36
Measured: 621 CCA
Rated: 600 CCA
Temp: 97 F
Battery is good, but low on charge, charge battery and return to vehicle.
Check for causes of low charge:
- Charging system
- Alternator belt
- Cables and connections
Starter Test
RESULTS
CRANKING NORMAL
Voltage: 10.99V
Amps: 0.0A
Time: 1.06s
CHARGING SYSTEM TEST
No load: 13.38V
Loaded: 12.63V
Ripple: 39mV
Charging system problem
Check belts, connections, and grounds.
Alternator service recommended if connections are ok.
Last edited by Caniac14; 06-07-14 at 07:39 AM.
#26
Driver
Thread Starter
Took it to the alternator shop, he hooked it up and its reading 13.6V loaded with AC on coldest and headlights on high. Looks like advanced was just trying to sell me alternator.
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