Caniac14

Well I guess I will just do whatever the car lets me. And it does seem that access to the alternator is easier from the bottom. As long as I can get easy access to the bolts whatever way it comes out is just cake to me. lol ^_^
Btw you never looked at my DM on instagram.

Caniac14

Well when I bought the car it already had the leak so I don't have a clue as to how long it was like that. Probably why the previous owner got rid of it I guess. All his service was done at a lexus dealership and I bet money they probably told him the PS pump AND alternator would need replacing and then threw some figure close to $2k at him so he just sold it. I'm surprised the alt lasted this long. Whenever I replaced the power steering pump it did seem as though he tried replacing some hose or something as it looked brand freaking new.

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

When I did mine, it only took me about 1.5hours to do it out the top.
You could do it out the bottom but you'd have to remove all of the plastic covers off the bottom of the car and drop the sway bar, maybe more. I hate doing that because most of those screws are rusted and snap off when you go to remove them... Most have never been removed in the 15-20+ years they have been on the car so when they snap off, you can get odd buffeting noises from those covers on the highway.

Taking out the top is easy.
Remove intake snorkel
Discounted upper rad hose from rad, lose about 1L of coolant
Remove fan shroud
Remove fan, don't have to but makes it easier.
Remove belt
Disconnect battery
Remove 1 bolt and one nut to pull alternator
Pull out, and remove 10mm nut from power terminal.
Twist and carefully remove connector... These can be a beach so be careful and done break it.
Check old alt to new alt for pulley to mounting flange distances.
Reverse order to install.

Caniac14

Thanks. Although disconnecting the battery should be the FIRST thing you do. Especially working with or close to a fan. And how hard was the fan to remove?
Do you have to remove the fan shroud or is it optional like the fan? It looks like taking the hose off would give a decent amount of room. Are the nut and bolt above each other? I can clearly see two 14s, one that will need a wrench to remove due to tight space and another that will need a socket with 2" extension.

And I am assuming you would only have to take the sway bar off if you plan to take the alt out the bottom? I'm just saying wouldn't it be easier to access to alternator from the bottom? As for the plastic skid plate I know mine can be removed/re-installed just fine as I took it off to clean all the PS fluid off of it.

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

A battery connected/disconnected makes zero difference on a mechanically driven fan.
So pulling the power first or just before unbolting the alternator really makes no difference. For the average nub, probably a good thing to do first but on super stiff motors, it's often easier to bump the engine around to get to all the fan bolts/nuts.

You don't have to pull the fan but you do have to pull the shroud. The alt is on a big long stud and you need to almost pull it into the rad core to get it off. At least that's how it was on my 96... I'd remove the fan just because while you can work around it, it's easier to remove it and have it out of your way.


And it's not just the skid plate but the entire plastic skirting that has to be removed to pull the sway bar. Probably work out to be the same amount of time. If I was working on an immaculate Cali car and on a hoist, is probably pull it out the bottom. In a driveway, I'd opt to pull it out the top. I don't like to work from my back and upside down, no power to break bolts free...

Caniac14

Just got the alternator out. Managed to do it from the bottom in just over an hour. 20 minutes of it probably removing all the damn bolts for the skid plate thing. Taking here to the rebuild shop. Hopefully I get some good news.

etex

Good luck. Let us know the outcome.

Caniac14

Welp. fk me. Paid $100 to have it rebuilt. Got her back in in about 45 minutes. Runs good, no battery light. I'm like ok, so I tell my neighbor they can give their dad his tools back. I go to advanced to have them check everything and it's only reading 13.38 Unloaded and 12.63 Loaded which means my battery isn't even getting charged. FKN GREAT! Now I have to take that beach back out, and take her back up there. I'm gonna demand they give me access to one of their lifts to take it out again. Not to mention I have to wait the whole freaking weekend too!

fixmiester

Before you yank it out again, be sure your battery is okay first; get it tested. Once a battery has been run down a few times, like yours, they often exhibit poor charging voltages, and don't pass load testing.

Caniac14

Well they tested the alternator through the battery. Wouldn't it have shown a bad battery if/when they did the test?

Here is what the thing they printed out looks like.

Battery Test Results
GOOD - RECHARGE
Voltage: 12.36
Measured: 621 CCA
Rated: 600 CCA
Temp: 97 F

Battery is good, but low on charge, charge battery and return to vehicle.

Check for causes of low charge:
- Charging system
- Alternator belt
- Cables and connections

Starter Test
RESULTS
CRANKING NORMAL
Voltage: 10.99V
Amps: 0.0A
Time: 1.06s

CHARGING SYSTEM TEST
No load: 13.38V
Loaded: 12.63V
Ripple: 39mV

Charging system problem
Check belts, connections, and grounds.
Alternator service recommended if connections are ok.

Caniac14

Took it to the alternator shop, he hooked it up and its reading 13.6V loaded with AC on coldest and headlights on high. Looks like advanced was just trying to sell me alternator.