Question about changing cam seals on 98 with VVT-i
05-14-14, 08:29 AM
#1
Question about changing cam seals on 98 with VVT-i
Ok so I have the whole front end tore down doing timing belt and water pump. I replaced the pump, pulleys and crank seal already and cleaned everything up pretty good down there. I can tell my valve covers have been leaking for some time but I also believe my cam seals are leaking also since there is a lot of oil behind the pulleys. I bought the Aisin kit from Amazon and got the crank/cam seals, valve cover gaskets, throttle body gasket, spark plug seals, PCV and grommet as well as the thermostat/seal from South Atlanta so I'm prepared. I have the valve covers off and now comes there scary part in my mind.
The timing belt job was fairly simple and I'm good with that part. The manual says to turn both left and right exhaust cams up ( A large 24mm hex wrench fits on the hexagon shaped part of the camshaft by the way ) to line up the hole where you place the bolt in to lock the exhaust cam and the markings on the intake/exhaust cams. Now this is where it gets a little nerve wrecking since the manual does not do a very good job of explaining things sometimes as we all know.
I have everything at 50 degrees past TDC already. The passenger side cams were already lined up when I got the valve cover off so I put the bolt into the exhaust cam. So I'm feeling good at this point. So I go over to the drivers side hoping that it's lined up as well but it's not. My question to those knowledgeable about this is would it be ok to move that cam into place without any issues? And how would I get the cams back to 50 degrees past TDC when I re-install them? The manual is not clear at all IMO! I might be over thinking this but I Don't want to jack up this engine either. halfway down the pdf Is the procedure for removing the cams. I'll post this in the other forum too.
The timing belt job was fairly simple and I'm good with that part. The manual says to turn both left and right exhaust cams up ( A large 24mm hex wrench fits on the hexagon shaped part of the camshaft by the way ) to line up the hole where you place the bolt in to lock the exhaust cam and the markings on the intake/exhaust cams. Now this is where it gets a little nerve wrecking since the manual does not do a very good job of explaining things sometimes as we all know.
I have everything at 50 degrees past TDC already. The passenger side cams were already lined up when I got the valve cover off so I put the bolt into the exhaust cam. So I'm feeling good at this point. So I go over to the drivers side hoping that it's lined up as well but it's not. My question to those knowledgeable about this is would it be ok to move that cam into place without any issues? And how would I get the cams back to 50 degrees past TDC when I re-install them? The manual is not clear at all IMO! I might be over thinking this but I Don't want to jack up this engine either. halfway down the pdf Is the procedure for removing the cams. I'll post this in the other forum too.
Last edited by sha4000; 10-18-14 at 10:12 AM. Reason: Resize Pics
05-14-14, 10:53 AM
#2
I knew it was a long shot to get any hits on my question. Does anyone know if I'm supposed to disconnect the whole throttle cable from the throttle body to remove it? Or do I disconnect the wire somewhere down the line. And yes I have the manual but it's not exactly clear. Thanks......
05-14-14, 11:24 AM
#3
sounds like you are overthinking it but i understand its importance! yes it would be ok to move the cam to get to the right timing position but move it slowly. it shouldn't have moved too far away from where it should be. when you get the belt on with all timing markings aligned and tensioned, do two full rotations on the crank with a wrench and see if all still lines up. it should!
also you should be able to disconnect the throttle cable while the TB is on the manifold. removal might not be necessary just to replace the gasket however. look down the line and see if there would be anything hindering the line (bracket stay, etc) if you were to remove the TB.
also you should be able to disconnect the throttle cable while the TB is on the manifold. removal might not be necessary just to replace the gasket however. look down the line and see if there would be anything hindering the line (bracket stay, etc) if you were to remove the TB.
05-14-14, 11:35 AM
#4
Thanks for the response timmy. I'm not worried about lining up all the marks for the timing belt job. I'm in the process of trying to replace the camshaft seals. Granted you might have missed that since I spent so much time talking about the timing belt. If you check out the pdf in the bottom of my first post I'm at the point where you have to use a 24mm hex wrench to turn the exhaust cam up to put the service bolt in it. Also I'm removing the whole throttle body to clean it thoroughly while I'm there but I think I figured out how to remove the cable. I'm going bac out to take a look at it now.
05-14-14, 12:26 PM
#8
Yeah like pd said. I can't get the darn throttle cable to unhook so I can remove the oil control valve and get the bolt that's underneath it to remove the front bearing cap.
Last edited by sha4000; 10-18-14 at 10:15 AM. Reason: Spelling
05-15-14, 09:04 AM
#9
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Sha, I'm definitely not even close to doing any job like you're doing. That being said, I'll try to help you as you and a ton of other members have helped me. When I removed the Throttle Body, the trick was to rotate where the wire connects backwards, then the little cable slips right out. I may have also loosened the bolts that keep the tension on the cable. Wish i could be more of a help.
Matt
Matt
05-15-14, 09:16 AM
#10
Sha, I'm definitely not even close to doing any job like you're doing. That being said, I'll try to help you as you and a ton of other members have helped me. When I removed the Throttle Body, the trick was to rotate where the wire connects backwards, then the little cable slips right out. I may have also loosened the bolts that keep the tension on the cable. Wish i could be more of a help.
Matt
Matt
Last edited by sha4000; 05-17-14 at 07:07 AM. Reason: Resize Pics
05-15-14, 09:25 AM
#11
are your cam seals really leaking? I have never done a VVT 98+ before, so I am no help.. just be careful..
since you are in NY, you might call (972) 612-3377 Davenport Lexus here in Texas, an independent garage who works on only Lexus and see if they can give you any guidance or tips to watch our for..
there is also a Krause's at 972-221-8743 . all they can do is hang up... try it.
since you are in NY, you might call (972) 612-3377 Davenport Lexus here in Texas, an independent garage who works on only Lexus and see if they can give you any guidance or tips to watch our for..
there is also a Krause's at 972-221-8743 . all they can do is hang up... try it.
05-15-14, 09:47 AM
#12
are your cam seals really leaking? I have never done a VVT 98+ before, so I am no help.. just be careful..
since you are in NY, you might call (972) 612-3377 Davenport Lexus here in Texas, an independent garage who works on only Lexus and see if they can give you any guidance or tips to watch our for..
there is also a Krause's at 972-221-8743 . all they can do is hang up... try it.
since you are in NY, you might call (972) 612-3377 Davenport Lexus here in Texas, an independent garage who works on only Lexus and see if they can give you any guidance or tips to watch our for..
there is also a Krause's at 972-221-8743 . all they can do is hang up... try it.
Last edited by sha4000; 05-17-14 at 07:22 AM. Reason: ResizePics
05-15-14, 10:01 AM
#14
^^^^^^ The top one is just dried oil the bottom one I don't know I'll have a look when I go back out to the car. Probably just a piece of those mechanical towels that got snagged. I'm trying to clean all theoil off the engine and there's a lot built up since I've had the leak for over 2 years.
05-15-14, 10:31 AM
#15
that's just dried up oil or marks left over from the casting process. nothing to worry about and yes that is a lot of oil in there!
as for the TB, try to dislodge the end of the cable off the pivot by trying to move it up and down (while holding the pivot at wide-open-throttle). it shouldn't be too seized in there i hope.
as for the TB, try to dislodge the end of the cable off the pivot by trying to move it up and down (while holding the pivot at wide-open-throttle). it shouldn't be too seized in there i hope.